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Bov not making full "noise"

BrApple said:
well mine wasn't sealing with three and now not with 5. I had the three in there on Joeys input.
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ok I figured out where its leaking from. its not leaking from the intake but from the vacuum line to the intake manifold. if I remove the line the vacuum with stop. So I am going to try to get a thicker o-ring to see if that will help seal it better. if not I will have to get a different bov then I suppose.
 
BrApple said:
ok I figured out where its leaking from. its not leaking from the intake but from the vacuum line to the intake manifold. if I remove the line the vacuum with stop. So I am going to try to get a thicker o-ring to see if that will help seal it better. if not I will have to get a different bov then I suppose.
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i'm positive am missing something here, but if the line is leaking, why not change the line?
 
BAD SVT said:
i'm positive am missing something here, but if the line is leaking, why not change the line?
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the line isn't leaking, the o-ring in the top of the RFL BOV isn't sealing completely. just trying to say it wasn't on the intake side of the BOV.
 
Ryan, glad to hear you got your problem solved.

Brian, sorry to hear your BOV isn't working right.

I can't decide how many washers to keep in mine. If I use 0 then the BOV opens whenever I let off the gas, which is good for the turbo but may cause me to run too rich. If I add 3 washers, then I get that mean sound of the BOV opening under full boost, but under 4000 RPM, I hear the flutter of air hitting the compressor wheel (i.e. surge).
 
SoopaCooga said:
Ryan, glad to hear you got your problem solved.

Brian, sorry to hear your BOV isn't working right.

I can't decide how many washers to keep in mine. If I use 0 then the BOV opens whenever I let off the gas, which is good for the turbo but may cause me to run too rich. If I add 3 washers, then I get that mean sound of the BOV opening under full boost, but under 4000 RPM, I hear the flutter of air hitting the compressor wheel (i.e. surge).
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the same thing. no washers and it openned very easily. ad three and under boost it sounded good. let off from part throttle at mid rpm and it has like it half openned. with 5 washers at that part throttle it has a flutter like sound.
 
BrApple said:
the same thing. no washers and it openned very easily. ad three and under boost it sounded good. let off from part throttle at mid rpm and it has like it half openned. with 5 washers at that part throttle it has a flutter like sound.
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the flutter sound is the valve breaking seal barely not the turbo. The flutter is better because it still allows some pressure to make the car run smoother but does not open up as easy unless you are under hard boost which is suppose to be the case. The turbo can handle 2 psi of back pressre or so with out hurting the blades it is when you get over 4 psi
you will this awful noise that is deep and chattering and that is your turbine wheel shuttering not a wind noise. I had to undo some BOV to test to see if the BOV was stalling the car and it doesn't hurt the car under low low boost and if you want to hear the difference do it one time the sound is very notable. Just check remember most cars OEM are over 10 psi and most turbo cars run 15 psi or so when you get to that pressure your BOV will sound like it should loud and high pitched. Most of the car we hear on the street are up there in boost. Joey
 
Yeah, that's a good point, Joey, we should block the BOV from opening just once by putting 5+ washers in there so that we know what "bad" sounds like. People keep telling me the light flutter is compressor surge, but there's almost no pressure in the system when I get the sound, so that cannot be correct.

BTW, we should talk sometime about NPG kit design and maintenance, upgrades, and of course Gulf Coast Thunder! LMK when is a good time to call.
 
Ok I just ordered a Tial 50mm anodized Blue bov, so this should fix the problem with a leaky bov, thanks livinsvt for the linky man:cool:
 
ryanblacksvt said:
Ok I just ordered a Tial 50mm anodized Blue bov, so this should fix the problem with a leaky bov, thanks livinsvt for the linky man:cool:
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care to share that link as I might want to go this way also.

however I got a tip over the weekend that I will want to try. I was told to help/make the rfl seal one needs to use some heavy grease on the slider insert.
 
Is the 11psi spring the appropriate one for our car? From what I've read about the Tial, the spring is supposed to be sized for the engines vacuum, not for the boost pressure. Just checking...
 
morbid said:
Is the 11psi spring the appropriate one for our car? From what I've read about the Tial, the spring is supposed to be sized for the engines vacuum, not for the boost pressure. Just checking...
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Yes it is, Livinsvt informed me to get the 11psi spring and thats what he is running and he is in the upper 300hp range.
 
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