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another Spec Stage 3+ failure

make sure everything is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN when doing your clutch swap. that dust these clutches make is my worst nightmare right now. even with the clutchnet disc....
 
TRicker said:
make sure everything is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN when doing your clutch swap. that dust these clutches make is my worst nightmare right now. even with the clutchnet disc....
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I almost puked when I looked at the bellhousing on my transmission. Lots of clutch dust + a lot of brake fluid shaken and spun = one giant gooey mess. I scrapped almost 3/8" of crap out of the bellhousing before I installed the new clutch. The flywheel and PP got a healthy cleaning with lacquer thinner before it went together - all seems well so far with ~ 250 miles on the clutch.

Is the dust having a negative affect on the performance or what? Anything to look out for?
 
tigerbalm said:
yeah i had a quaiffe installed as well as stage 2 axles, but i dont plan on abusing too much.
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sweet, you should be able to beat the crap out of it then. those stage two axles were probably a waste of money though. from what I hear the joints themselves aren't what breaks on the SVT axles, and thats the only part they really upgrade on the high perf axles...


KyleQ said:
I almost puked when I looked at the bellhousing on my transmission. Lots of clutch dust + a lot of brake fluid shaken and spun = one giant gooey mess. I scrapped almost 3/8" of crap out of the bellhousing before I installed the new clutch. The flywheel and PP got a healthy cleaning with lacquer thinner before it went together - all seems well so far with ~ 250 miles on the clutch.

Is the dust having a negative affect on the performance or what? Anything to look out for?
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tell me about it, I had a leak between the TOB and the bell housing... before the TOB went bad and shot brake fluid all over the place in there. so I had about a half inch of black paste made from clutch dust and tranny fluid, with a shiny layer of black brake fluid on top. this kid thats going to school for his ASE certs likes to watch me work on my car, and when I showed him the clutch parts, he was like "is a clutch supposed to be wet?" and I replied, "well this isn't a motorcycle, but apparently it thinks it is"... the training their giving out in ASE programs seems to be a little lacking these days...
 
I know i'm one of the very few who've been somewhat successful so far with these spec3+ clutches. However, as the weather changed here in tx, my clutch has been acting up it seems. More often than usual, it's pedal grab is very low instead of middle to uptop that it usually is. In fact, it does this in the first & second gears sometimes. Its always made the famous "clutch chatter" only when disengaged. Should i be worried?
 
BAD SVT said:
Its always made the famous "clutch chatter" only when disengaged. Should i be worried?
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The brand new OEM SVT one we put in the silver car does the same thing. It's very faint, almost sounds like a small header leak. I'm assuming this is not that big of a deal as the noise is faint? How loud is yours?


BAD SVT said:
So i pulled her out of the garage & saw some brake fluid on the ground. So i'm guessing my TOB is done or on its way out. I'll post where the leak is coming from soon as i find it.
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:( Hopefully it is just a loose hose! (outside of the tranny)
 
Chas said:
:( Hopefully it is just a loose hose! (outside of the tranny)
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Thats exactly what it is! I traced the origin of the leak to the TOB hose right outside the tranny, where it connects to the metal pipe that goes up to the brake fluid reservoir. I'm guessing a trip to the junkyard is in order as i dont think any regular hose will do. Unfortunately now, my reservoir is empty, so i've got to bleed the clutch & brakes as well. Whew! Thank goodness i didnt have to drop that tranny.
 
Chas said:
Yay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:laugh:
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Thx. ...My sentiments as well:). It was about time i changed my fluid anyway. It was a bit dark in colour. I'm pretty sure i've got this right: But when the main reservoir is empty, to push all the air out, i need to bleed in this order; Rt Rear - Lt Rear - Rt Front - Lt Front - Clutch. Correct?
I ask cuz i know i've heard some cars having to bleed the reservoir itself...
 
This thread makes me happy i went with stock LuK for my clutch. When i replace my clutch next time, it will be a clutchnet for sure. Nighthawk on here said he had a stage 2 spec and he's had it in there for a while (guessing 10-15K) I should tell him to sell it before the clutch goes out on him:laugh:
 
BAD SVT said:
Thx. ...My sentiments as well:). It was about time i changed my fluid anyway. It was a bit dark in colour. I'm pretty sure i've got this right: But when the main reservoir is empty, to push all the air out, i need to bleed in this order; Rt Rear - Lt Rear - Rt Front - Lt Front - Clutch. Correct?
I ask cuz i know i've heard some cars having to bleed the reservoir itself...
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Yep! Furthest first, then work in to the closest, with the clutch last.
 
Popping back in - my Clutchnet Stage 4 Red kit I installed has been destroyed for some time - it feels just like my Spec clutch, vibrates like mad and will smoothen out with clutch adjustement.

Pulling the transmission sometime this week - my buddy broke the shift tower bolt and was messing with it and got it stuck in gear :rolleyes:

I'm thinking of just replacing the clutch disk and leaving the red pressure plate in there - not sure I want to go with a solid hub, so maybe I'll look at the Sport 'FIBER-CARBON' Sprung Hub Clutch Disc...
 
So I'm going to look at the car again tomorrow (I've been refusing to go into the garage) - I've got everything pulled (had to hack up my pass side floor to get the rear subframe bolt out) except the bolts holding the transmission to the motor. The shift tower is stuck in the transmission so I'm pulling it so I can split the case and physically move the shift fork to get it back in nuetral so I can weld the •••• out of the shift tower to ensure it doesn't happen again. I'm not even going to put the bolt back in it, I've replaced so many of these it is just stupid to put it in again.

The car isn't that far off the ground - so I'm going to raise it higher in hopes it lets me get more room. New clutch is on the way - hopefully nothing else is trashed in there when I get it apart.

I am correct that I can pop the bellhousing off and get inside and move the shift forks, correct? I've had it apart for the Torsen, never tried moving the gears though...

Hopefully this one doesn't blow up, I guess nobody could beat on the car as hard as I could, so I shouldn't worry...
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KyleQ said:
So I'm going to look at the car again tomorrow (I've been refusing to go into the garage) - I've got everything pulled (had to hack up my pass side floor to get the rear subframe bolt out) except the bolts holding the transmission to the motor. The shift tower is stuck in the transmission so I'm pulling it so I can split the case and physically move the shift fork to get it back in nuetral so I can weld the •••• out of the shift tower to ensure it doesn't happen again. I'm not even going to put the bolt back in it, I've replaced so many of these it is just stupid to put it in again.

The car isn't that far off the ground - so I'm going to raise it higher in hopes it lets me get more room. New clutch is on the way - hopefully nothing else is trashed in there when I get it apart.

I am correct that I can pop the bellhousing off and get inside and move the shift forks, correct? I've had it apart for the Torsen, never tried moving the gears though...

Hopefully this one doesn't blow up, I guess nobody could beat on the car as hard as I could, so I shouldn't worry...
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Terry Haines does a key mod that takes the stress off of the bolt to prevent the broken bolt, I think it runs like 150 to do plus shipping your shift tower. If you're interested send him an email.
 
you can get the tower off without removing the trans... you just need to wiggle and pry and it pops back into neutral. Just make sure you find the head of the bolt if not youll pop a hole in your trans case.
 
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