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Another CEG'r doing a MPV 3.0 swap

ok, didnt realize you could get the NPG kit with the spring-lock fittings instead of the ones used for the Taurus. hopefully thats what you ordered anyways.
 
Yeah in good collaboration with joey at npg he got me set up with the spring lock that goes on a standard size fuel rail. Which fits my MPV fuel rail.. ill take pics so u can see what he sent me.. and Thanks for letting me know that the Taurus rail was different I didn't know that ..
 
sergiovbriones said:
I think u should use the taurus fuel rail.
Click to expand...

Re-read this entire thread... taurus fuel rail will not fit inisde the MPV UIM valley.

aboythatskates said:
everything looks pretty good.it doesnt matter which ones you use for what just as long as all the vacume ports in the uim are connected or blocked off and all the solinoids are connected as well. and to answer your question... i kept my taurus fpr in and did not connect it via vacume or electronically. just used it as a block off

also...in picture #2, that line also goes into a vacume port on the uim
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you need to use the FPR on the blobk off box that NPG provides. The other FPR just leave installed and unplugged.


RFcsvt said:
I believe you are correct with this line going to the PCV valve from the contour. I think this is the EVAP line. The gray end on that hose clicks into an elbow that I think is part of the pcv valve. What I ended up doing to avoid cutting this vac line was I dismantled the pcv valve for the contour and kept the elbow part that connects to the gray connector, basically instead of a pcv valve this became a T. I capped the part that used to go to the pcv valve and routed the open end with some hose to the UIM. Since I used the 3L pcv system it was easy to modify this part to work. My description might not be the best but when I get home I could snap a pick that would probably help it make sense.

Right after I wrote this I was looking at the other MPV thread on here. If the MPV pcv is like the newer Taurus/Escape pcv(which it appears to be) then my idea would work, but if it's more like the 2.5L it might be a little different.
Click to expand...


The MPV has the updated PCV that connects into the rear valve cover.



Pblack003 said:
Funny you posted lol... i was just reading your input about the throttle body on Sam's (svttour) 00SVT MPV swap.. anyway thats a great idea i didn't wanna cut the end off the line, but if it's vacuum it needs, I'll take the PVC valve apart as you did and clip it onto the 90* that's in the PVC valve then connect it to the UIM in an open port..
Click to expand...

Pblack003 said:
yeah thanks again .. as for the Taurus TB set up ... the MPV UIM / Taurus throttle body slopes way low and would make my cruse control cable go right through my cam pulley for the water pump ... any idea how to get go around that ? most likely i'll have to modify the TB Bracket to have my cruise go above my throttle if possible ..
Click to expand...

I suggest doing something funky with the tb bracket. you can always leave it disconnected untill later.
 
Yeah the TB bracket was a little trial and error, especially with the cruise cable. You can weld up a bracket that's a combination of the two and you should be able to route the cables over the water pump pulley. Mine clear the pulley by about an half inch, it's close but they do not contact at all. It does sort of pull up a little but it works and there is full range in the gas pedal. I did modify the wheel that the cables hook up to on the TB to try and retain the stock gas pedal travel. I think people address the gas pedal travel in different ways for the full 3L swaps. Once you get all the rest of the details worked out and you are ready for the tb bracket part you should have no trouble figuring it out.
 
Pblack003 said:
about the factory MPV FPR, I'll disconnect it then just put a cap on it so it keeps dust and crap outta it.. and as for pic two .. thanks I'll connect it to the last open port i have on the MPV Fuel rail thanks again for the help ..
Click to expand...

right on. that would obvioously work too
 
svttour said:
Re-read this entire thread... Taurus fuel rail will not fit inside the MPV UIM valley.
Click to expand...

I'm still using the MPV fuel rail with the SVT injectors no change...

svttour said:
you need to use the FPR on the blobk off box that NPG provides. The other FPR just leave installed and unplugged.
Click to expand...

using the stock FPR from my CSVT fuel rail and i have it bolted to the fuel adapter from NPG as instructed from you and joey @ NPG

svttour said:
The MPV has the updated PCV that connects into the rear valve cover.
Click to expand...

in this pic
MPVIntake004.jpg

that line went to the SVT PCV calve am i correct to just hook it up to a vacuum line on the UIM ?

svttour said:
I suggest doing something funky with the tb bracket. you can always leave it disconnected until later.
Click to expand...

thats the plan i rarely use cruse control anyway but for future note i'll make a bracket for it ..

on a second note .. the MPV cooling system hoses were 100% fabricated i'll have pics of that too .. i hope it works .. i had to use my old style hoses cut and split then connected back with unions and "T" fittings and all kinda stuff .. anyway well see how it works tonight hopefully... and pics of that to come too ..
 
another quick update and more pics to come tonight. I'm prolly gonna be able drop her in tonight, wish me luck !!!
 
IMAG0497.jpg


This is how we roll in Florida .. motor swap and watermelon

IMAG0499.jpg


Above a PVC "T" pipe with a threaded top then a threaded tube adapter screwed into it.

IMAG0498.jpg


The water pump to cross over tube... modified to fit using extra tube from water pump to block tube.

IMAG0500.jpg


Close up of the "T" that supplies coolant to the upper port in the reserve coolant tank

IMAG0501.jpg


A wider view of the coolant system.

IMAG0502.jpg


The aluminum plate that I fabricated to hold my coil pack top view

IMAG0503.jpg


The aluminum plate that I fabricated to hold my coil pack bottom view

IMAG0504.jpg


Is it ok to use two sets of the longer plug wires ???

IMAG0505.jpg


The view of the poorly located cruse control bracket.


More soon I need to drop this motor now!
 
Last edited:
Beans said:
Why are you using that 3L coolant crap?
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Explain ? What 3L coolant crap.. On the mpv 3l you have to use the black coolant piece that is mounted in the motor and the thermostat housing because the svt thermostat housing doesn't line up with the mpv piece... If that makes sense... Also there is no heater line on the mpv motor it's on the mpv thermostat housing.. Anyway it's what I cam up with, a peaceful solution to making it work all for under $5.00 what do u propose I do?
 
Pblack003 said:
Explain ? What 3L coolant crap.. On the mpv 3l you have to use the black coolant piece that is mounted in the motor and the thermostat housing because the svt thermostat housing doesn't line up with the mpv piece... If that makes sense... Also there is no heater line on the mpv motor it's on the mpv thermostat housing.. Anyway it's what I cam up with, a peaceful solution to making it work all for under $5.00 what do u propose I do?
Click to expand...

I don't know what you are talking about but you are doing it wrong. Use your 2.5L coolant stuff, not only is that ghetto as hell your missing one of your coolant sensors... What you plan on doing with the heater core hose
 
Beans said:
I don't know what you are talking about but you are doing it wrong. Use your 2.5L coolant stuff, not only is that ghetto as hell your missing one of your coolant sensors... What you plan on doing with the heater core hose
Click to expand...


Well please tell me what i should do then because the aluminum piece that all the hoses and the sensor was attached to would not come off of my 2.5 block... and yes this set up will remove one of the coolant sensors but the heater core hose goes here it's a very similar location to the CSVT set up..

IMAG0501-1.jpg


ghetto yes but its not a show car by far, it just has to be functional
 
Sure,
First yank that SOB out! You need both those sensors. You got the one side unbolted correct? The other side with no bolts is just a tube with a O-Ring. Spin the side with the bolts back and forth till it comes out, shouldn't be that difficult.

That will simply everything for you no need for all those adapters. coolant system should be exactly like the 2.5L is
 
yeah i unbolted it and it spun a little but .. but tomorrow i'll get that sob out for sure ... gotcha but I got the motor in already, think i'll have to take it out to get the 2.5 piece on it? and i guess i need a new coolant hose any clue on how much the crazy spider like coolant hose cost and where i can get one at? just curious ???
 
yeah that one.. i found one new at NAPA locally for 41.99 each i guess that will have to do .. i just wanna get this done right .. thanks for calling me out on it .. you've been a huge help :) thanks ..

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/...840_0117319247&An=599001+101998+50026+2026005

Actually got one at pep boys because the one from napa looked more ghetto than my set up.. Actually they had motor hoses clamped onto fittings and "t"s than I do.. S pep boys had the oem part and was only 28.99 vs 41.99 at napa thanks again everyone for the guidance and direction.. Now I'm gonna go home and try to get this cooling system done correctly then finish dropping the motor.. :blackeye:
 
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