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3 Liter intake on 2.5

sure

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No photoshop. I have a spare IMRC box and I painted the cover , and then I swaped them. Its duplicolor red metal flake over rustolium high temp silver. looks fairly close in the light and even closer with the hood shut.
 
Gas mileage is holding steady at 21.3 in town for the auto car. The 5 speed was consistantly getting 33 mpg on the highway at 62 mph. But top end was just not there, so I have put the SVT manifold back on. The taurus manifold works best at lower RPMs where an auto trans likes to stay, but with the gears of the 5 speed its just not as well suited. 2500-3500 is awsome but the parts were not matched so well. I think things would be different with a custom tune. or a larger engine. So after 4 months of experimenting I have decided to keep the taurus intake on the auto car but not the 5 speed one at least for a while. still have some things I want to do with the lower intake.
 
Collecting the parts to make the secondaries Vacuum operated. I have to leave the IMRC box plugged in to avoid a CEL, but the cable will be removed. It should not cause an issue that way as long as the motor and gears still function. It should be more reliable this way, and I think that because its activated by air speed ( loss of Vac ) it may be able to improve driveability. Going to try it on the automatic one first.


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OBDI contours had vac opperated secondaries, and you can tune out the IMRC. but if you want to avoid a tune, remember the IMRC box needs a spring for resistance or it will trip codes and act silly anyway...
 
i think u should go the the track on 2 different days. and record each pass with the svt uim and the 3l. that would get some real results. but other then that great work bro
 
Imrc doesnt need a spring to avoid a CEL from lack of resistance. when the cable breaks you dont get a CEL, it just doesnt work. I have a spare IMRC with a broken cable that I will plug in to satisfy computer. not trying to tune out Imrc. just looking for a more progressive way to open secondaries. Imrc opens fairly quick, Vac opens a little slower. and opening will be controlled by engine not computer. No data on this so I will experiment with it. I appreciate all input and will post results good or bad. Been really busy at work but this weekend is finally clear to get this done.
 
ukravit said:
just looking for a more progressive way to open secondaries. Imrc opens fairly quick, Vac opens a little slower. and opening will be controlled by engine not computer. No data on this so I will experiment with it.
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Hi ukravit; i've noticed from some dyno sheets, that the power output can dip when the secondaries open. I'd be interested in what you discover from opening the secondaries more slowly... maybe a stepper motor.

My money is that it takes the engine a little time to adjust to the change in air. ... slowing it down may lose the 'kick' we all love but ultimately create a stronger upward power curve ... GL ...G.
 
got one converted to Vac secondaries. the 5 speed. It was actually easy. removed the plate that holds the spring in place, then I cut off the spring and bushing. I had to drill a hole between the existing hole and the shaft. installed a bushing/clip and its good to go. I checked the operation and when you rev it by hand you can watch things move. I drove it for about 5 miles and I like it. First gear is more snappy. the kick from the secondaries popping open is gone. It just pulls, and its more even. And it works every time. The auto one with the other intake is next, should be done tomorrow.
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I think more people could possibly be going to VAC operated secondaries :cool:. Nice.
 
Does the ecu still control the vacuum operated secondaries, or are they set to a something static? If there's no way to tune them, then I think they would be a downgrade.
 
KAOS_3.0 said:
this is a fairly interesting thread, I'd like to see how vac secondaries work on a ported 3.0 or a hybrid...
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Kaos - my '95 is a ported 3L with vac operated secondaries :rolleyes:.

morbid said:
Does the ecu still control the vacuum operated secondaries, or are they set to a something static? If there's no way to tune them, then I think they would be a downgrade.
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Morbid - no, the ECU does not have any control on the vac secondaries. The Vac pressure at 3k RPM+ pulls the secondaries open. You are correct, no way to tune them but you could EASILY tap into that vac line and install some kind of valve to operate manually if you really wanted.
 
i have been thinking about doing this for a little wile, but i was wondering were did u get the vac secondaries stuff? the junk yard?
 
I couldn't find the parts in the local yards. so I got the part number for the Vacuum actuator ( F5RZ 9S514 B ) and got 2 of them on Ebay for about 25 each new. I tried rock auto but they have the wrong part listed as an alternate part , so no luck with them. Here are some better pics to show what I did to convert it. the parts use existing holes, you just have to "T" into a vacuum line to run it. Pretty much just cut off the spring and bushing , drill a hole , pop in an incert , bolt on the part, and hook up the line. did my automatic tour this morning. results to come.

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o wow, thanks man i think i am going to do this on my car next week. i just always hate not knowing if my secondaries will work when i give it the gas, and the vac seams like it will be more consistent
 
Little more clear pics.

First ones are an original SVT lim with ELECTRONIC secondaries:

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Here is a SVT converted LIM over to VAC secondaries:

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Thanks Blu. The Vacuum actuator works by closing the secondaries when you start the car and there is strong vacuum. when you smash the gas and vacuum drops the actuator releases the secondaries. this also happens when you go up hills; not a good thing because you lose velocity in the intake and power from the secondaries being open at too low of RPM. from the factory there is a restrictor to regulate opening , probably to avoid the hill issue. I was able to tune how fast the secondaries open by making my own restrictor out of a vacuum check valve and installing it between the vacuum source and the actuator. I drilled different size holes and settled on a 3/32 hole. works pretty good. I checked opening by starting the car and when I shut it off I watched how fast the vacuum bled off and opened the secondaries. Driving after each change was accurate with just watching it bleed down. The check valves are on all kinds of Fords, I got mine from a 94 Escort with a 1.9 SEFI . Brand new 15.00 , junkyard .50 cents or free. I can see how this can be used to raise the opening point and even only allow partial opening, lots of variables. Quicker than a tune and free too. which helps when you are just experimenting or playing around.
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As for parts, I Googled the CK2253 part number and the Ford part number and was able to get the parts. Just have to keep looking.
 
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