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Clutch replacement: Should I do it myself?

I've pulled 5 transmissions out of the drivers side wheel well - TRicker and I pulled my engine to install my clutch and headers - but the reasoning there is obvious.

You do not need to remove the radiator - there is a hole in each peg that goes through the core support. Put a piece of welding wire or a cut up coat hanger in there and it will hold up the radiator.

Disconnect the steering from under the dash - 1 bolt.
Don't be lazy - support the engine with an engine puller, big safety deal as when you remove the trans from the car and install it again you are going to have to shake and pry it a little bit.. a jack will fail at this point.

Drain transmission - pulling the cv shafts will also do this for you :laugh:

Pull the drivers side strut with the cv in tact and set it aside - wire up the caliper through the hole where the strut mounted to the tower.

Pull the passenger side strut with the cv in tact - wire the caliper up the same. Put cv in vise and using a punch remove the intermediate shaft from the cv so the installation is much easier.

Remove the obvious stuff - intake tube, battery, battery box, disconnect the exhaust from the y-pipe, hydro clutch line, grounds, front and rear roll resistors, etc etc. There is an A/C canister on the front of the subframe - unbolt that and let it hang.

Support the engine with a puller - remove the passenger side motor/trans mount, remove shift tower, shift cables, unplug wheel speed sensor and starter. Remove the front subframe bolts - looser the rears until there is only a few thread still engaged in the nuts. Push down on the front of the subframe until it comes close to contacting the floor (if not all the way - more space the better)

Put some foam or cardboard under the engine and start removing trans bolts. Put hand in shift tower hole and starter hole and start working the trans off the motor - may help to have a buddy pry gently on the trans with a prybar/screwdriver.

Once the transmission is removed from the engine set it down - it will rest of the floor and subframe. Have a buddy push down on the subframe while you pull the transmission out the driver's side opening. It will be a little tricky - but it almost looks like the A/C lines were routed in a way so the trans will clear. It will take awhile - take your time and don't damage the brake line where it comes off the front fender apron. I've done this quite a few times and I can have the transmission out of the car in under 45 minutes - that includes removing all of the bolts (and having fun with the front split nut one) pulling the trans off the motor and wrestling it out of the car.



My stage one lasted as long as yours did behind my full 3L - the torsen really shortened it's lifespan.

I'm sure I have missed a few things - but I almost find this job easy now... I've had my subframe down twice now - alignment still in tact...
 
How do you support the MTX while you're loosening it from the engine? You mention that you support the engine with a lift and that you set the MTX down once it's disconnected, but is it held up by a lift, jack, etc.?

I've never touched the suspension/drivetrain so this is my first time. Also, I'll be on my own so that should add another layer of difficulty. I'm still not 100% convinced I want to try this. The car is jacked up and the wheels are off, but I'm hesitant to start on it.
 
I've seen it done two way, stick a pickle fork between the hub and the tie rod end (be careful of the boot), and some people just bang on the tie rod from underneath til it pops out.
 
PurpleMystique said:
How do you support the MTX while you're loosening it from the engine? You mention that you support the engine with a lift and that you set the MTX down once it's disconnected, but is it held up by a lift, jack, etc.?
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I hold onto it through the shift tower hole and the starter and pull it off - once it is off the motor just set it on the ground. It isn't heavy - or I am strong; I've never had an issue pulling the transmission off the car or putting it back on that way
PurpleMystique said:
I've never touched the suspension/drivetrain so this is my first time. Also, I'll be on my own so that should add another layer of difficulty. I'm still not 100% convinced I want to try this. The car is jacked up and the wheels are off, but I'm hesitant to start on it.
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Get a buddy to help - this job is so much better with someone to talk to and give occasional help.
PurpleMystique said:
Okay, I'm having trouble disconnecting the steering link from the driver's hub. I took the nut off of the bottom, but the bolt won't budge. Suggestions?
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Take the nut off, flip it upside down (if it is a castle nut) and bang on it that way. If that doesn't work bang on the side of the TRE - always hit it with some penetrating fluid. Hang in there - if it breaks it is like a $23 replacement or a $40 for a good Moog.

Good luck.
 
Go to the auto parts store that loans tools, and get a tierod end separator (pickle fork). You can do that and have it out in 30 seconds or bang on it for an hour with a sledgehammer and maybe still not get it out. Whatever you do, do not hit the threaded rod part.
 
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Yep, I ended up picking up a pickle fork this morning. The only problem is that when I went to separate the passenger side ball joint, grease squirted out of a couple tiny holes in the boot. Do I need to replace this now?
 
Also, these aren't looking too good. I should probably replace them while I'm in here, no?

IMG_1544.jpg

IMG_1545.jpg
 
you might as well replace the LCAs while you have the trans out since it will be really easy to do, you will get new ball joints out of it as well.
 
Autozone should have the adapter. You will have to look up online whatthe loan a tool part number is cause they can never seem to look it up themselves. For the LCAs you are going to have to order them, eiter from Bill Jenkins, Steve at Tousley, or a parts store.
 
striker2 said:
Autozone should have the adapter. You will have to look up online whatthe loan a tool part number is cause they can never seem to look it up themselves. For the LCAs you are going to have to order them, eiter from Bill Jenkins, Steve at Tousley, or a parts store.
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THANK YOU

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp?bodyContent=wheelAndAxle

They didn't know what I was talking about when I called them. At least now I know they should have it...

I'll pick it up Monday. I got those LCAs ordered tonight.

Thanks CEG.
 
Alright - back to it.

I got the CV joint adaptor and got both struts/axles pulled. I have the engine and radiator supported and I'm ready to start disconnecting the roll resistors.

I disconnected the hydraulic line as instructed (remove metal clip, not just push/pull as AutoZone directions say) and now the hardline is steadily dripping hydraulic fluid. Was I supposed to drain something first? Once I reconnect it I'm assuming I'll need to bleed the clutch line but I'm also assuming I'll need to add some more fluid considering the amount that has leaked out. What do I use? Where do I add it? How much?
 
PurpleMystique said:
Alright - back to it.

I got the CV joint adaptor and got both struts/axles pulled. I have the engine and radiator supported and I'm ready to start disconnecting the roll resistors.

I disconnected the hydraulic line as instructed (remove metal clip, not just push/pull as AutoZone directions say) and now the hardline is steadily dripping hydraulic fluid. Was I supposed to drain something first? Once I reconnect it I'm assuming I'll need to bleed the clutch line but I'm also assuming I'll need to add some more fluid considering the amount that has leaked out. What do I use? Where do I add it? How much?
Click to expand...

I wrap it with a rag and tie it up and out of the way. It will drain your M/C and you will have to not only bleed your clutch, but your brakes as well.

You have an engine puller correct? You will need it to support the motor once you remove the drivers side motor/trans mount. You can pull the roll resistors without worry - you will be surprised how much and how easy the motor moves without them. Take note at where grounds go on the transmission and how things are routed as putting it back together for the first time can be a bit challenging.
 
I'm not sure where any of the grounds are, and I'm unsure how to disconnect the shift tower. I have a large jumble of vacuum lines, fuel lines, and electrical wires directly above the MTX so it's hard to get in there and see what I'm doing.

I have the engine supported from below and above so it's good to go. My new LCAs shipped yesterday so hopefully I'll have them soon.
 
I'm assuming I'll need to get the flywheel resurfaced. Should I install a new throwout bearing? Is there anything else besides the friction disc and pressure plate that I should replace while I'm in there?
 
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