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The 'Tour... A Lost Cause?

no just that from the factory it should of at least had a torsen ...


now when my father drove my 3L before the turbo his comment was if that is how a fwd car drives with a atb diff then they should all have them ...
 
cobrawannabe said:
True.

I'm not sure he's saying that as much as he's saying that he'd rather not have to go through the whole process of it. But I could be wrong. Those Mustang guys are something else:laugh:
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Yea, it would be nice to be able to boost the car without having to rip it apart.

Im not expecting to make 400whp on the stock everything but 250whp would be nice.
 
The lowest-end (and only "street-legal") turbo kit from NautilusPerformance is like 7- or 8-psi, and apparently with no other mods it's supposed to boost an SVT to about 240hp...

Sooo.... If I were to add MSDS headers and exhaust, a tuned XCal2, and that turbo kit from NautilusPerformance, I would consequently end up with more than 250hp, and my differential would fall apart quicker than Scott Peterson's alibi?
 
I think many people are gun shy about this topic.

In short: yes.... and no...

In slightly longer: the stock power levels would yeild the same answer. Yes... and no..

Truth is: even at 170whp you can break the differential... so surely at 250, or 400 you could. However, with that being said, you can also NOT break the differential at substantially higher levels than you are going for. It is all in the delivery. The driving style.

If you dump it... then you're leaning towards the yes column at any power level. Roll in to it, feather the gas until you are moving, etc, then you are leaning on the no at both levels.

So, no.. you aren't going to explode because of some magic number.. you're going to break the car because of the way you drove it, regardless of power levels. Be smart and you won't see anything "catastrophic" like most people would allow thier minds to think.
 
Ray said:
Truth is: even at 170whp you can break the differential... so surely at 250, or 400 you could. However, with that being said, you can also NOT break the differential at substantially higher levels than you are going for. It is all in the delivery. The driving style..
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Or you could accidently hit a water spot or ice then dry pavement and call it a day. :blackeye:
 
Ray said:
I think many people are gun shy about this topic.

In short: yes.... and no...

In slightly longer: the stock power levels would yeild the same answer. Yes... and no..

Truth is: even at 170whp you can break the differential... so surely at 250, or 400 you could. However, with that being said, you can also NOT break the differential at substantially higher levels than you are going for. It is all in the delivery. The driving style.

If you dump it... then you're leaning towards the yes column at any power level. Roll in to it, feather the gas until you are moving, etc, then you are leaning on the no at both levels.

So, no.. you aren't going to explode because of some magic number.. you're going to break the car because of the way you drove it, regardless of power levels. Be smart and you won't see anything "catastrophic" like most people would allow thier minds to think.
Click to expand...


So pretty much you wont ever be able to go WOT in first gear.
 
With 300, 350, or 400++ you wouldn't be able to ANYWAY, without a substantial amount of work on the suspension, tires, and control arms anyway...

at least, not if you plan on making USE of that WOT..

At those power levels its kind of irrelevant is your differential is built or not.. end result is the same.. you aren't planting first... (or second... or most of third....) at WOT anyway.
 
Ray said:
With 300, 350, or 400++ you wouldn't be able to ANYWAY, without a substantial amount of work on the suspension, tires, and control arms anyway...

at least, not if you plan on making USE of that WOT..

At those power levels its kind of irrelevant is your differential is built or not.. end result is the same.. you aren't planting first... (or second... or most of third....) at WOT anyway.
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this is true. there really arent a lotta horror stories of FI'd tours with snapped axles and blown diffs because we arent getting traction from 0. the tires just spin and spin. if there's no traction, theres definitely no snapping axles and cracking diffs. most of the diff blowing comes from highly modded 2.5s and slightly modded 3ls that have just enough power to be able to put to the ground effectively while gaining some traction.
 
BAD SVT said:
most of the diff blowing comes from highly modded 2.5s and slightly modded 3ls that have just enough power to be able to put to the ground effectively while gaining some traction.
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In other words the front tires going, thump thump thump thump (i.e. wheel hop) as you take off. :laugh:
 
one engine mount, one trans mount, two rear roll resistors.
15 axles
one open diff
one torsen

all on a na 2.5

and i keep payin so i can do it somemore. i love this car :)
 
Hmm... Well, I feel a little better now...

On the other hand, my SVT has about 110,000 miles on it, and I'm pretty sure it was abused before I got it due to the the condition of the clutch and and tranny (both needed replacing) when I got it... This probably means I should go for a Quaife LSD or a Torsen Diff before having my new tranny installed and have them both installed at once in order to save on labor, huh?

I do intend to turbo my SVT pretty soon, as soon as I work some of the kinks out.
 
you should just sell your SVT to someone who will appreciate it for what it is. And then go buy a POS STI or civic or whatever you see on every street corner . :nonono:
 
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