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European Mooses!!!!!

CSVT1214 said:
I actually just heard "the moose" for the first time a couple weeks ago. My 98 SVT has never done it, but my 00 SVT, which just got on the road a few weeks ago, did it. I just looked around with a WTF look on my face the first time I heard it. :laugh:
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lmao, you should have seen my face the first time my girlfriends SVT did it. I was like a deer in the headlights!
 
When i first got my svt i put my cold air intake on it and pro-m in the 1st month. I never heard the noise till last year when i put my stock air box back on for the winter.


I called pudmunkies when mine finally did it. Pud was like umm Harry that is the moose everyone talks about.

Harry was like:help: :blackeye: (feeling like a dumbass)


Well if you are unhappy about the new intake rara you can always sell it:shrug: :laugh:
 
Me TOOO!

Me TOOO!

Rara said:
The last two days (very cold in MI), it has become clear to me that the ST220 intake manifold is not immune from the almighty Moose. That is all.
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hotdimmes said:
moose fix with the washer is one of the best things I've ever done to my car. The moose is so damn embarrassing. It sounds like some tribal war call coming from under the hood!
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Yes, it has been COLD here. My car is moosing all the time and it's really annoying. It seems like I never had the problem so badly until this year. I had heard it before, but not EVERY time that I drove my car. :crazy: I did the moose/throttle hang fix with the copper pipe cap, but I took it out the next day. It made my car idle high and I wasn't used to the revs dropping so low so fast when I shifted, so it was completely screwing up my driving slowly on city streets. Is there any better solution? It's a 2000 SVT with the single relatively straight IAC tube. I think that I read somewhere that that was the updated design. :shrug: It's kind of embarassing to start the car in the parking lot of Kettering University with car people all around wondering WTF you're doing. :blackeye:
 
TX00SVT said:
Yes, it has been COLD here. My car is moosing all the time and it's really annoying. It seems like I never had the problem so badly until this year. I had heard it before, but not EVERY time that I drove my car. :crazy: I did the moose/throttle hang fix with the copper pipe cap, but I took it out the next day. It made my car idle high and I wasn't used to the revs dropping so low so fast when I shifted, so it was completely screwing up my driving slowly on city streets. Is there any better solution? It's a 2000 SVT with the single relatively straight IAC tube. I think that I read somewhere that that was the updated design. :shrug: It's kind of embarassing to start the car in the parking lot of Kettering University with car people all around wondering WTF you're doing. :blackeye:
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Did you reset the ECU when you did this? If so, that could be the problem with the idle.
 
30 mins to disonnect the battery for a PCM reset is a very long time, I usually pull the negative wire off, leave it off for like 10-20 seconds and then put it back on and it works fine.
 
The Five-Oh! said:
you usually only need to leave stuff disconnected for that long if you're doing something with the airbags or safety system. i think.
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Yes most disconnect the battery when anything electrical work is being done.

Since way back in the day, i have always been told if the battery is disconnected for long periods (30+mins) the computer resets itself.

Rara what do you think?
 
Harrry said:
Yes most disconnect the battery when anything electrical work is being done.

Since way back in the day, i have always been told if the battery is disconnected for long periods (30+mins) the computer resets itself.

Rara what do you think?
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Yeah, generally, when doing electrical work, its a good idea to disconnect the battery to prevent unintentional shorts, etc.

Most car PCMs will reset if the battery is disconnected for any reasonable length of time. A quick unhook may or may not reset things. Pulling the fuse is generally the easiest way to just reset a contour PCM, without having to reset all your radio presets and all that.

On the subject of resetting PCMs and whatnot, if you are ever welding on a car, its a good idea to not only unhook the PCM, but to remove it from the car entirely. I've seen a number of computers fried from welding on cars . . . even when the main connector is unhooked (grounds through the case). You can usually get away with leaving it in when doing exhaust work, but its better to take the extra precaution.
 
Rara said:
Yeah, generally, when doing electrical work, its a good idea to disconnect the battery to prevent unintentional shorts, etc.

Most car PCMs will reset if the battery is disconnected for any reasonable length of time. A quick unhook may or may not reset things. Pulling the fuse is generally the easiest way to just reset a contour PCM, without having to reset all your radio presets and all that.

On the subject of resetting PCMs and whatnot, if you are ever welding on a car, its a good idea to not only unhook the PCM, but to remove it from the car entirely. I've seen a number of computers fried from welding on cars . . . even when the main connector is unhooked (grounds through the case). You can usually get away with leaving it in when doing exhaust work, but its better to take the extra precaution.
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Thanks for the information I always wondered if the 30min was true/false.


I heard welding in your house is a bad idea also:crazy:
 
Rara said:
Yeah, generally, when doing electrical work, its a good idea to disconnect the battery to prevent unintentional shorts, etc.

Most car PCMs will reset if the battery is disconnected for any reasonable length of time. A quick unhook may or may not reset things. Pulling the fuse is generally the easiest way to just reset a contour PCM, without having to reset all your radio presets and all that.

On the subject of resetting PCMs and whatnot, if you are ever welding on a car, its a good idea to not only unhook the PCM, but to remove it from the car entirely. I've seen a number of computers fried from welding on cars . . . even when the main connector is unhooked (grounds through the case). You can usually get away with leaving it in when doing exhaust work, but its better to take the extra precaution.
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Thanks for the info. I usually never bother disconnecting the battery, but I guess maybe I should. I will keep in mind having to remove to PCM for when I weld up my subframe connectors.
 
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