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My new 99 SVT (pics + exhaust vids)

PurpleMystique

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
2,602
Location
Greater Des Moines Area
Well I'm now on my third Contique, and my family's fourth. I started out with a 95 Zetec ATX, then a 96 Duratec ATX, and just yesterday I drove 6 hours away to pick up a 99 SVT.

I'm the third owner, although the second owner only had it for 4 months before trading it in for a Marauder because he needed more room to carry people.

It came with that exhaust, although I'm not sure of the brand. It has a JVC mp3 CD player which I plan on keeping, and the windows are nicely tinted. It has 80,500 miles, and the exterior is nearly spotless. There's a tiny ding in the trunklid and the back bumper is a bit scratched up, but that's all.

I'd like to get the production number put below the headlight and possibly some SVT decals on the back windows, but besides that she's remain mostly stock. I'm heading out now to do the fog light mod and install my speakers and sub.

n16908665_34331223_8939.jpg

n16908665_34331235_3707.jpg

n16908665_34331234_8680.jpg


And here are the vids
The exhaust is a bit raspy when it's cold like it was, but once it warms up it's very very smooth. I think it's a little bit loud for my taste, but I'll live with it.
Behind car
In car
Drive-by
 
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I'm extremely happy with it. I have one door speaker in, and now I'm trying to figure out how to bypass the factory amp.
Also, it has two issues that I've found so far.
1. About 150 miles into the drive home it threw me a CEL. I got it checked and it's P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire. A search gave me some possible solutions for that...except I couldn't find how to figure out how the cylinders are numbered, so I don't know which one is 3
2. The steering wheel shudders when braking from higher speeds. I'm not sure what would cause that, so some solutions and pointing to some detailed how-tos would be really helpful.
 
The "Shuddering" when you stop from high speeds is probably cause your rotors are warped... My car does the same thing and thats what she needs.:shrug:
 
I'm extremely happy with it. I have one door speaker in, and now I'm trying to figure out how to bypass the factory amp.

Take the factory amp completely out of the car. The harness that leads out can have the plug cut off and wire them in accordingly to the CD deck.
 
The "Shuddering" when you stop from high speeds is probably cause your rotors are warped... My car does the same thing and thats what she needs.:shrug:


Yep my se was the same way. I hope yours come off easier than mine did. I had to get a wheel puller to pull mine off. they were rusted on so tight. It was a big pita to change the drivers side.

Invest in some good rotors. you'll be glad you did.
 
The "Shuddering" when you stop from high speeds is probably cause your rotors are warped... My car does the same thing and thats what she needs.:shrug:

X2. rotors aren't too bad to get off. Hammers are your freind. And for the misfire, it is most likly as someone said a bad plug of wire. just get new ones all around for them and you should be fine.
 
How good are the eBay crossdrilled/slotted rotors like these?

And (sorry but) how do I know which cylinder is which?

They look cool, but dont stop much better then stock rotors, plus they warp kinda early.

You are better off picking up a set of Wearevers from Advance auto. Cheap, and you get a one year warrenty, if they ever warp you get new ones free :)

thats the way I went.
 
Should I replace pads at the same time? Is there a how-to written up for any of this?
Also, I'm trying to do the fog light mod but I can't get the plastic piece under the steering wheel off. I popped the screw covers but my 7mm ratchet bit is too big to slide in there and turn it. Any solutions?
 
Should I replace pads at the same time? Is there a how-to written up for any of this?
Also, I'm trying to do the fog light mod but I can't get the plastic piece under the steering wheel off. I popped the screw covers but my 7mm ratchet bit is too big to slide in there and turn it. Any solutions?

Do the pads as well since you have everything off. not sure if there is a how to for it on this site. But it is easy. bascially remove a few torx bolts and that is it....minus busting knuckles. :) Pipes that you can fit on the end of your ratchet is a very good thing getting those bolts loose...and deep creep as well. Jack up the car and take the tire off....and just look at what needs to be take off. You should be able to reverse engineer what they did. :)
 
Since no one's answered your other question, cylinder 3 is the rear one on the driver's side.

Front of car
6 5 4
3 2 1

For the bolts under the steering column try using an extension if your socket isn't long enough...I think I actually just used a straight driver with the socket on the end. They shouldn't be torqued so much you need a rachet.
 
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