• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Flame if you must, but this is my prototype

Some answers.

Some answers.

Yes it's my daily driver, but it is not a big deal if I pooch the engine, if I dust the 2.5, there is room for a 3L.

Cam at 1/2 speed. Yes, this was a big deal I'm testing a 64:18 ratio on the drive vs the supercharger. The impeller speed will be about 36,000 RPM's at the top end. I think it should produce around 6lbs, if that holds true after testing, the mounting design (without modification) will support a 72:18 ratio (bigger belt of course) which will run the impeller at 40K, netting 10lbs. The PSI seem to drop like a stone with such a small percentage of RPM drop.

Snappi-Cam. Don't worry, this is not an SVT Head and cam, only the intake. The design (right now) depends on the water pump drive pulley which is pressed on. I'm hoping that the w/p drive pulley will slip before the cam snaps. If it slips too much, I'll set screw it in. Then she may snap.

The blower in the A/C location, is a great idea. However I really want to keep my Air condition. Hmmm, I guess you could put the AC where I have the blower, and blower where the AC is. This way, the power and engine RPM's are where you want them and the 1/2 speed cam and AC can be ratio'd correctly.

I forgot the other questions, I'll re read and answer more if there are any left.
 
95pgt-t said:
i dont see why??:shrug: probe gt/mx6 LS guys have been doing this for years w/no issues
Click to expand...

the probe guys don't do it this way the water pump is in the typical location on a mazda 2.5. They run a 3ft long driveshaft across the front of the engine bay down the left side of the motor. there is no stock pulleys on the backside of the motor to connect to
 
LLADNAR said:
the probe guys don't do it this way the water pump is in the typical location on a mazda 2.5. They run a 3ft long driveshaft across the front of the engine bay down the left side of the motor. there is no stock pulleys on the backside of the motor to connect to
Click to expand...
i was referring to the a/c location supercharger. they actually have/had four common setups for the probe/mx6
1)thomas knight setup were you made a bracket to att. it directly to the back of the manifold by the firewall
2)deloren shafted style(similar to the old vortech for us)
3)and the a/c location setup
4)similar to number 2 but they use the clutched supercharged that mercedes uses,this can be turned on and off with a toggle switch.
 
yes the superchargers use a kevlar belt. my thomas knight setup has the same thing except it is exposed, and the bearings are smaller. that's where the problem lies. it keeps eating up bearings. however it only had two bearings in the whole setup. i could put 4 or 6 bearings where the bearings are installed. if i did this, it would reduce the side load on the bearings by spreading out the load across all the bearings. if this would work, i would put the TK blower back on my car. other than the bearings going out, its a very nice setup. the only thing you have to lose is the coolant reservoir, which you just switch out for a smaller sized one. good luck on the setup. ive thought about a shaft drive to an old vortech off a mustang (cheapness factor) i could use a shaft and bearings out of a snowmobile jackshaft (would easily handle the rpm) and build brackets for it on the front of the engine. the splines are huge so stripping wouldnt be an issue. i would just put a pulley set on the other side with a small belt so the supercharger wouldnt be directly connected to the shaft. that way the belt would slip and no splines would have to get ruined, and i wouldnt have to have a specially designed coupler to match up the supercharger shaft and the jackshaft splines.
 
Freezing cold work!

Freezing cold work!

xtascox said:
I forgot about this. Any progress?
Click to expand...

Just to update you guys, the MAF sensor wire has been extended to reach the new location.

2. the blower to TB pipe is in need of an adjustment and weld.

If it was not for the negative million degree temperatures, she'd be done. But I'll have to wait for a warm break before I commit any more time.

FYI- even my wife laid the dis on me for taking so long!!
 
TRicker said:
yes the superchargers use a kevlar belt. my thomas knight setup has the same thing except it is exposed, and the bearings are smaller. that's where the problem lies. it keeps eating up bearings. however it only had two bearings in the whole setup. i could put 4 or 6 bearings where the bearings are installed. if i did this, it would reduce the side load on the bearings by spreading out the load across all the bearings. if this would work, i would put the TK blower back on my car. other than the bearings going out, its a very nice setup. the only thing you have to lose is the coolant reservoir, which you just switch out for a smaller sized one. good luck on the setup. ive thought about a shaft drive to an old vortech off a mustang (cheapness factor) i could use a shaft and bearings out of a snowmobile jackshaft (would easily handle the rpm) and build brackets for it on the front of the engine. the splines are huge so stripping wouldnt be an issue. i would just put a pulley set on the other side with a small belt so the supercharger wouldnt be directly connected to the shaft. that way the belt would slip and no splines would have to get ruined, and i wouldnt have to have a specially designed coupler to match up the supercharger shaft and the jackshaft splines.
Click to expand...

I don't think slipping belts or the lack-off is the cause of the stripping spines. I think I remember reading that it was due to minor angle differences in set-up that sett he shafts slightly askew to each other. Overtime they wear down until they finally have nothing to grip.
 
NothernMystique said:
Just to update you guys, the MAF sensor wire has been extended to reach the new location.

2. the blower to TB pipe is in need of an adjustment and weld.

If it was not for the negative million degree temperatures, she'd be done. But I'll have to wait for a warm break before I commit any more time.

FYI- even my wife laid the dis on me for taking so long!!
Click to expand...

It's ok. I've been getting crap from everyone about getting my engine put back together. I guess no one understands that you actually need to be able to feel your hands when you are working on a car:shrug:

On the topic at hand, if this turns out well I may be next to try a setup like this.
 
Progress Intrupted!

Progress Intrupted!

Well I had her running for about 2 weeks before I had a pretty decent failure. I'll post a pic of what remains, but here is the summary.

I have re routed the intake and MAF from under the car to under the hood, with a pretty nice arrangement. If you remember, I had to re route some of the water lines (this was pretty easy, but very messy) to first drop the head unit in, But I did move them back a little bit, to allow for the cleaner air intake setup.

Basically here is where I had my failure. I got too excited, I know lame as it may sound to the 'do it right' kind of guys. I had re routed the intake and it was such a short step to remount the drive pulley, and have the whole thing running. So I hooked it up and had a blast. What I did not mention was the fact that I had some immense tension on the blower belt. It was pretty bad, and as a result I had cracked the water pump drive pulley. The failure caused the rotation of the blower pulley (which had been mounted directly to the water pump pulley) to wobble. And as a result, after more extreme wobbling, to throw the belt! I had a spare water pump pulley and it was a challenging removal and a quick install to get the car running again.

I've got a couple of options now.
1. adjust or redo the mounting plate to move the supercharger about 1/4 higher
2. add a tensioner to the assembly and use a longer belt

I am confident that the water pump pulley does not slip since my reference marks indicate no movement, I am also confident that the cause from the failure was a result of the huge tension on the belt and fairly light design of the water pump pulley.

I am having a new pulley quoted with a mechanism that will lock onto the cam shaft and the ability to accept my existing blower pulley.

Just an update, and yes, I am a huge loser for not running to a dyno the first day I had it installed. The butt dyno felt quite impressive, but I've got nothing in terms of figures for you guys.

I'll keep you posted

Pete
 
have you considered running a ewp and removing the stocker so the blower is the only thing running off of the front cam?
 
This is a really good idea

This is a really good idea

95pgt-t said:
have you considered running a ewp and removing the stocker so the blower is the only thing running off of the front cam?
Click to expand...

This is a really good idea, however, I don't know how the electric water pump actually works. There is not much clearance between the water pump (its pulley) and the supercharger pulley. I was not sure how much room the actual ewp takes up.

The whole assembly of the drive unit is too heavy for my liking and it needs to be thinned out. I have another prototype for the waterpump drive pulley, and this should bite enough of the cam shaft to provide adequate strength. However it's weight at the end of a shaft, which is never good in the long run.

I can take a few pics of the actual intake/charge flow but the drive assembly is in my workshop. At least until I adjust the mounting bracket, and raise the head unit up by about 3/8" Look for them over the next couple of days.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top