• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Flame if you must, but this is my prototype

yeah i seen it for a decent price on ebay with decent review so ifigured i would give i a shot...wasnt that impresse though.was neat but cheesy.....:shrug:
 
Its a knock off centrifugal supercharger, and it won't work any better than even a weak positive displacement blower. Don't waste your money. What he has setup already, is a modified drive of what any high end centrifugal supercharger is. Get the car tuned right and it should put down damn good numbers.

http://www.procharger.com/superchargers.shtml
 
My next problem

My next problem

So I was throwing a 174 and a 171 code, so I thought i had a vaccuum leak, or the iat popped out when I was moving stuff around. Well it turns out that there was no obvious leak. My fear is that the 24# injectors that I'm using are not providing enough fuel.

Do we have any opinions on this? any help would be appreciated

p
 
24# injectors are fine. your not at 300 to the wheels, i suspect you have something else goin on.


also the amount of CFM provided with that electric supercharger is worthless. search it out for a real talk about it but its a waste.


also i wanna say this. nobodies ever done this and you have. you took what didn't work and made it to work. im proud of you and congradulations buddy :)
 
Thanks Contourguy

Thanks Contourguy

This was a bugger of a job, but the car is running fantastic and wild!!

Now if I can just figure what's killing my Alternators!! :((
 
I don't care what anyone else says cool custom setup.

Definitely impressive. Compressor sounds real nice too.
 
18,000 Km and still running - with one small modification

18,000 Km and still running - with one small modification

I was getting into some trouble with my setup,the pressed on waterpump pulley was starting to slip. And for those of you who are familiar with the "right-hand-rule" and newtons first law of physics.. the pulley wandered right up to the valve cover.

My fix.. drilled a 1/8" hole through the pulley and the cam! I hope she doesn't snap off!!!!!
I also had to deal with some pesky leaks and a myriad of other piss off problems unrelated to the blower.

She still screams*, and I'll be getting a dyno and tune soon.


* screams is a relative term, and by no means I think my car is faster than yours- LOL.
 
not a relyable solution

not a relyable solution

BAD SVT said:
hey! forgot about u:). seems the car's been running fine. good to hear. reliability seems to be an issue with ur setup. is that fair to say?
Click to expand...

its really plagued with a ton of small pita's

if i were to modify the design from day 1... i'd put the SC in place of the AC and drive the ac off the cam. more boost potential
 
NothernMystique said:
its really plagued with a ton of small pita's

if i were to modify the design from day 1... i'd put the SC in place of the AC and drive the ac off the cam. more boost potential
Click to expand...

How are you driving the car without a dyno? A NA tune will be way too lean so you'd be risking detonation when getting into any boost. Interesting setup, hopefully you get all the problems worked out. I worked through quite a few problems on my own setup.
 
I hate to say it but the extra drag on that one camshaft (which is hollow, BTW) is probably wearing out your cam tensioner faster than normal. Not to mention the bearings on that side of the head. It takes a lot of torque to turn a supercharger and a sacrifice has to happen somewhere.

Cool experiment, though and I wish you luck.
 
NothernMystique said:
I noticed some knocking upon hard acceleration and I thought it was the water pump drive pulley slipping. I took the supercharger drive system off and it was still there, I even took the water pump drive belt off and it was still there. I noticed it under forward acceleration, and I don't believe it happens in reverse.

under closer inspection, I see that there is virtually no clearance between the intake port of the SC and the ac condenser. I suspect in the lower gears that I'm tapping on the condenser, it does not have the same issues deeper into the RPM's and gears.

I looked at my engine mounts and they look full of holes. I suspect a replacement with polyurethane is in order.
Click to expand...

Maybe start simple and replace the almost certainly blown stab-o-shok for a fixed mount, and congrats on getting it working!
 
Hightower GT said:
I hate to say it but the extra drag on that one camshaft (which is hollow, BTW) is probably wearing out your cam tensioner faster than normal. Not to mention the bearings on that side of the head. It takes a lot of torque to turn a supercharger and a sacrifice has to happen somewhere.

Cool experiment, though and I wish you luck.
Click to expand...

Back from vegas and north carolina!! From hot to hotter than hell!!!

I've upgraded the mounting of the drive pulley so it will not slip. Here is my main concern with an inevitable problem. During the peak torque on the drive pulley, my old setup slipped and the water pump pulley would move off line with the s/c pulley. Now that I have firmed it up (I have a hardened steel bolt 5/16" through the camshaft) I'm wondering if the point where the CAM gear is connected to the CAMSHAFT will slip....

We all know what type of disaster will result if the CAM PULLEY and CAMSHAFT are not aligned correctly...

Are the cam pulley's pressed on? is there any keyway etc to keep it in place, or am I rolling the dice on this...

I do not recommend this setup to anyone for a few reasons.
Tough to get a high boost pressure (ratio is too great)
mounting problems for the drive pulley
potential for catastrophic engine failure
 
i've just checked a set of SVT cam's i have, they are not keyed and look to be pressed on. Looking closer; it appears the surface of the camshaft where the pulleys sits is 'ribbed' if you like, the pulley probably is too. G.
 
Ribbed for her pleasure!! LOL

Ribbed for her pleasure!! LOL

gorman said:
i've just checked a set of SVT cam's i have, they are not keyed and look to be pressed on. Looking closer; it appears the surface of the camshaft where the pulleys sits is 'ribbed' if you like, the pulley probably is too. G.
Click to expand...

Are the 'ribs' dramatic? meaning does it look like you'd need to sheer the cam for the the pulley to 'spin' on the CAMSHAFT?
 
they are splined. very slightly splined i suppose. the pulley on the water pump side should not even be a perfect circle. if i recall correctly, its got two flat sides on it so it can't slip. you should be fine there.

the timing tensioners will not be a problem because they are backed up by oil pressure. just make sure you idle the car and warm it up every time instead of just starting up and driving off. to whoever said something about "camshaft bearings"...... there are none. the cams sit right in the head, and the ports going through the head supply oil to the camshaft. it should be able to handle that little bit of extra force really...... i mean ford put a pulley coming off it in the first place, going to the water pump. i realize that's much added drag, but it should handle it easily. i'd get an oil pressure guage and run it off the side of the head to know what your oil pressure is at the "camshaft oil galleys"
 
NothernMystique said:
Are the 'ribs' dramatic? meaning does it look like you'd need to sheer the cam for the the pulley to 'spin' on the CAMSHAFT?
Click to expand...
as tricker said... it is not your normal splines. Got some photo's, here's the best of the bunch.
DSCI0027.jpg

DSCI0028.jpg

.... i'm really interested in your setup. It is at the correct end of the engine bay for my purposes. Definately need more shots of what you are doing... or sell me your setup if you upgrade ...G.
 
Thanks for the support on this...

Thanks for the support on this...

TRicker said:
they are splined. very slightly splined i suppose. the pulley on the water pump side should not even be a perfect circle. if i recall correctly, its got two flat sides on it so it can't slip. you should be fine there.

the timing tensioners will not be a problem because they are backed up by oil pressure. just make sure you idle the car and warm it up every time instead of just starting up and driving off. to whoever said something about "camshaft bearings"...... there are none. the cams sit right in the head, and the ports going through the head supply oil to the camshaft. it should be able to handle that little bit of extra force really...... i mean ford put a pulley coming off it in the first place, going to the water pump. i realize that's much added drag, but it should handle it easily. i'd get an oil pressure guage and run it off the side of the head to know what your oil pressure is at the "camshaft oil galleys"
Click to expand...

My waterpump pulley is perfectly round, so I had to modify that to keep it from spinning. The pics of the splines are quite small, but I think that WTF, I may as well giver another go.

I'll take more pics, but after this weekend, I've got a mystry clunk in the front end, and I want to get that fixed first.

Thanks
 
Both LCA's need to be replaced

Both LCA's need to be replaced

Ouch,

The dealer wanted over $1000 to replace the LCA's. So the next week or so, I'll be replacing those prior to juicing the blower up.

sit tight, I'll try to do a how to on the lca's
 
NothernMystique said:
sit tight, I'll try to do a how to on the lca's
Click to expand...

Undo axle nut, remove pinch bolt for b-joint, undo tie rod and end link, grab 3' pry bar and pry down releasing b-joint from knuckle. Loosen top strut nut so susp. can move. Use air chisel to drive axle out of hub. Unbolt control arms. Takes about 25 minutes for pass. side. Driver is longer since you have to cut the 2 forward bolts under the trans. Insert new bolts upside down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top