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dash help
- Thread starter low2earth
- Start date
Lord Stanley
Hard-core CEG'er
is there anyone in nj that knows how to fix a dash. mine flipped up and i wanna get it back down. kinda like its warped or somethin....
Funny you should say that... There are many threads on this subject, here is a good recent one...
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=21046
Lord Stanley
Hard-core CEG'er
ill check it out thanx. appearently its known for that huh?
Yea, the '98+ dashes are known for warping...
Luckily I have a '95, IMO the overall dash design is better too...
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
I'd bet it is the same as yours. The front part started to lift up right at the defroster vent right?
The Ford dash warp repair kit is made for that, and also fixed the area around the instrument guages and glove box. Contact Bill Jenkins at Team Ford.
I was about the buy the kit when I found a dash in the jy that had the repair done. It needed a bit more help, at least I thought it did :laugh: so when I was satisfied I swapped them. The cost was only about $20, and I'm happy with it.
The kit contains a C molding that goes across the front edge next to the windshield, 8 C clip strips that go inside the defroster vents, a bunch of pop rivets that are used around the instrument opening and glove box areas, a new vent cover that locks into clips inserted in the vent supports, and a larger metal vent that covers the new vent cover and pop rivets into the vent supports. I did not install that last part on my dash it was not on the replacement one I got, but I did get it off another car. To me it is ugly and only if my dash were to start doing it again would I consider using it. I have seen several other 99, & 2k's that have everything but that part on from the factory and they are not warped at all. My thought is somewhere along the line Ford started making it right.
I did a write up on how I did mine with pics you can search it out. PM me if you need help.
Regards,
AF
The Ford dash warp repair kit is made for that, and also fixed the area around the instrument guages and glove box. Contact Bill Jenkins at Team Ford.
I was about the buy the kit when I found a dash in the jy that had the repair done. It needed a bit more help, at least I thought it did :laugh: so when I was satisfied I swapped them. The cost was only about $20, and I'm happy with it.
The kit contains a C molding that goes across the front edge next to the windshield, 8 C clip strips that go inside the defroster vents, a bunch of pop rivets that are used around the instrument opening and glove box areas, a new vent cover that locks into clips inserted in the vent supports, and a larger metal vent that covers the new vent cover and pop rivets into the vent supports. I did not install that last part on my dash it was not on the replacement one I got, but I did get it off another car. To me it is ugly and only if my dash were to start doing it again would I consider using it. I have seen several other 99, & 2k's that have everything but that part on from the factory and they are not warped at all. My thought is somewhere along the line Ford started making it right.
I did a write up on how I did mine with pics you can search it out. PM me if you need help.
Regards,
AF
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
he found a dash in a junkyard that already had the fix done. the JY only wanted $20 for the dash. thats how he got it for that price.hey i couldnt find your post but i did contact that guy and he sayd itll be like 70-80 bux shipped. so im wondering where u got it for 20?
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
That's right I got mine at the jy. I would suggest you start there too. I keep seeing that most of the 99's & 00 have all the parts of the kit except for the large metal vent cover on them. Which to me suggests that some time in 99 Ford started to correct the problem. I could be wrong, but why else would these parts be on them. If it was a dealer repair then the whole kit would have been installed and it is not.
There has been much posted about this problem. Several guys have come up with ways to fix this without the kit. Most have not worked long term.
Attached is the Ford repair instructions for the kit. Check it out.
Only for convenience, I suggest that you get a dash to do the repair on, then just swap them out. That provides for the least down time. If that is not a concern of yours then by all means fix yours. After I got my new dash I took it apart and found much of the pad was loose, so I repaired it, then put the hold downs back on. Again this dash had all the clips and fasteners except for the large metal vent cover on it. I got the that cover from another car, and keep it on a shelf in case I have a need for it in the future. While doing mine I found that using a heat gun to help reshape the dash was a big help. I also used 3m spray glue for plasticts and vinyl to reattach the pad before putting on the clips etc. The end result was an almost perfect looking dash.
Search the topic and you will have more info than you want.......
Regards,
AF
There has been much posted about this problem. Several guys have come up with ways to fix this without the kit. Most have not worked long term.
Attached is the Ford repair instructions for the kit. Check it out.
Only for convenience, I suggest that you get a dash to do the repair on, then just swap them out. That provides for the least down time. If that is not a concern of yours then by all means fix yours. After I got my new dash I took it apart and found much of the pad was loose, so I repaired it, then put the hold downs back on. Again this dash had all the clips and fasteners except for the large metal vent cover on it. I got the that cover from another car, and keep it on a shelf in case I have a need for it in the future. While doing mine I found that using a heat gun to help reshape the dash was a big help. I also used 3m spray glue for plasticts and vinyl to reattach the pad before putting on the clips etc. The end result was an almost perfect looking dash.
Search the topic and you will have more info than you want.......
Regards,
AF
Attachments
Rich2279
CEG'er
I'll probably see how much a u-pull-it yard wants for a non warped dash. IIRC, early '98 warping wasn't near as bad. Might end up being cheaper than the ford repair kit.:shrug:
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
So how do you plan on fixing it even if you get the parts?
Taking the dash out is really nothing more than removing a few bolts and plugs.
Taking the dash out is really nothing more than removing a few bolts and plugs.
So how do you plan on fixing it even if you get the parts?
Taking the dash out is really nothing more than removing a few bolts and plugs.
well i was gonna see if a friend of mine new how to do it and if we could do it at his house. if not then i guess im gonna have to leave it cause sure cant afford to take it somewhere.
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
I went back and checked prices of the dash warp kit. There are two prices for it, what others pay and what CEGer's pay if you contact:
Bill Jenkins
Team Ford, Internet Parts Dept.
5445 Drexel Rd.
Las Vegas, NV89130
1-800-791-6436
702-395-5173
1S2Z-5404282-DA List $74.73 Inet $55.65 <<< this is our price.
Secondly here is the location of my dash warp repair post and heading:
CEG Forums> Branches> Northwest
This weekend
I usually work alone so things sometimes take a bit longer or I have to do something a bit differently, but having said that I also like to have plenty of room so I tend to do more than what is actually necessary if I think it makes it easier overall.
For the dash removal that means I remove (others just leave it on the floor) the steering column, and the front seats. To do that,the extra work we are talking about is opening up the little plastic clamp at the bottom of the steering wheel and the extra 12 bolts for the seats. That equates to about a whole 20 mins, but the extra space is worth it to me. After doing this several times I suppose I could live with the seats in place. You have to remove the cup holder section of your console, and your weather stripping on the front doors. Then you are ready to start on the dash.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST! - both terminals!
Remove the lower knee panel under the steering column.
Remove the covers on the steering wheel remove the wiring connectors then remove the three bolts and lower or remove it.
Remove the instrument bezel - 5 screws, 3 are hidden under the CONTOUR insert where the clock went and behind the rear window defog switch.
Remove the instrument cluster - 5 screws and two plugs in the back.
Remove the radio / HVAC bezel - 2 screws on the bottom and pull.
Remove HVAC controls - 2 screws and connections on rear.
Remove Headlight / mirror control bezel and connectors - 2 screws on bottom, and pull.
Remove glove box.
Remove glove box liner.
Remove the kick panel plastic screws on each side to allow access to connectors behind.
Remove screw covers at both ends of dash at doors.
Now you are ready to start on the dash itself. First start removin connectors unedrneath the dash they are all color coded or of a size that they only fit their connectors. Not a bunch of similar ones. Pass air bag is disconnected through the gloveboxI think it is actually only 6 screws #40 torx that hold it in place. Two at each end and two in the center area by the glove box and under the knee panel. Could be 8 I forget (by choice).
Hey now your done remove it slowly, because there is always one connector you missed....lol.
Install the kit and reinstall.
Nothing to it..... lol
What are you waiting for???????
Bill Jenkins
Team Ford, Internet Parts Dept.
5445 Drexel Rd.
Las Vegas, NV89130
1-800-791-6436
702-395-5173
1S2Z-5404282-DA List $74.73 Inet $55.65 <<< this is our price.
Secondly here is the location of my dash warp repair post and heading:
CEG Forums> Branches> Northwest
This weekend
I usually work alone so things sometimes take a bit longer or I have to do something a bit differently, but having said that I also like to have plenty of room so I tend to do more than what is actually necessary if I think it makes it easier overall.
For the dash removal that means I remove (others just leave it on the floor) the steering column, and the front seats. To do that,the extra work we are talking about is opening up the little plastic clamp at the bottom of the steering wheel and the extra 12 bolts for the seats. That equates to about a whole 20 mins, but the extra space is worth it to me. After doing this several times I suppose I could live with the seats in place. You have to remove the cup holder section of your console, and your weather stripping on the front doors. Then you are ready to start on the dash.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST! - both terminals!
Remove the lower knee panel under the steering column.
Remove the covers on the steering wheel remove the wiring connectors then remove the three bolts and lower or remove it.
Remove the instrument bezel - 5 screws, 3 are hidden under the CONTOUR insert where the clock went and behind the rear window defog switch.
Remove the instrument cluster - 5 screws and two plugs in the back.
Remove the radio / HVAC bezel - 2 screws on the bottom and pull.
Remove HVAC controls - 2 screws and connections on rear.
Remove Headlight / mirror control bezel and connectors - 2 screws on bottom, and pull.
Remove glove box.
Remove glove box liner.
Remove the kick panel plastic screws on each side to allow access to connectors behind.
Remove screw covers at both ends of dash at doors.
Now you are ready to start on the dash itself. First start removin connectors unedrneath the dash they are all color coded or of a size that they only fit their connectors. Not a bunch of similar ones. Pass air bag is disconnected through the gloveboxI think it is actually only 6 screws #40 torx that hold it in place. Two at each end and two in the center area by the glove box and under the knee panel. Could be 8 I forget (by choice).
Hey now your done remove it slowly, because there is always one connector you missed....lol.
Install the kit and reinstall.
Nothing to it..... lol
What are you waiting for???????
qbcsvt
Hard-core CEG'er
I wouldnt Mind Helping you with everything Im in north Jersey!
I just hope ur not too far down south. If you are down south!
Keep In Touch
- amyn
I just hope ur not too far down south. If you are down south!
Keep In Touch
- amyn
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
PS: to do the repair you need a pop rivet gun, a drill, and a couple of bits. In addition I'd suggest a heat gun or hair dryer, and some 3M spray glue for vinyl and plastic. If you plan on using the metal vent cover, painting it a matching color or something closer than black might also be a good idea.
AF
AF
I wouldnt Mind Helping you with everything Im in north Jersey!
I just hope ur not too far down south. If you are down south!
Keep In Touch
- amyn
i do live in south jersey but depending where u live would prob be worth the trip