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why?

you can use them with your stock Y- or any other Y, they will make it a little bit louder, but it sounds so much nicer and meaner with them. the Headers remover the precats, so you will have to get the MIL eleminators which connect to the sensors, you can still have your main cat there andhave no problems, I have the headers y from MSDS and have a Brullen cat back, but still have the main cat for smoging purposes
 
hmm. ok. so let me get this straight.
heathers (any brand) will always eliminate precats. I will put mil eliminators, use my stock y-pipe, stock main cat and then i can have my stock resonator and straight pipes after that (that's what i have now)...and it will sound a little bit louder.
ohh, and how exactly will i pass emissions? would the main cat be good enough to compensate the other 2 missing precats? huh? hmm
i think i am asking too many questions, right?
 
Yes, headers always eliminate the precats. You will need MILs. You can use your stock y-pipe, although I highly recommend you get it optimized (search old forums). After that, the rest of the exhaust will match up just fine.

As long as you get MILs and keep the stock main cat, you shouldnt have any problems passing emissions. Unless they do an in depth visual inspection and happen to notice your headers, which are actually fairly difficult to see. Especially if you get them bare and paint them with black hi temp paint. MILs will prevent any CELs, and your main cat does a fine job at cleaning up the exhaust gases so a sniffer shouldnt pose any problems granted that the engine is running well.
 
and quit calling the "heathers"!!!! damn.

get ahold of marty at msds inc. and tell him you just wanna buy the headers. $200. shipping is extra, he also can supply gaskets and bolts for extra, also does coating for extra, also has y-pipes (which is a good iddea) for extra, and coating for that is extra...
 
wow posthuman. thanx. i will sure get in touch with him to get some HEATHERS :) hehe

kingpinSVT -- thanks for the info. I will have to trust you on that one. I hope the main cat will do the job, because in Virginia they put the car on rollers and measure the actual exhaust gasses.
 
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In a car that was OTHERWISE running healthy BEFORE headers, the car will pass emissions IF it is FULLY warmed up. If its cold, then it will crash and burn on the testing.
 
8000RPM said:
wow posthuman. thanx. i will sure get in touch with him to get some HEATHERS :) hehe

kingpinSVT -- thanks for the info. I will have to trust you on that one. I hope the main cat will do the job, because in Virginia they put the car on rollers and measure the actual exhaust gasses.
Click to expand...

My car with a 3L and no precats passed the AZ emissions about the same as before I gutted the precats. In that state you don't have to test emissions until the 5th year of ownership, when the manufacturers emissions warranty is done I think. Anyway I tested it just to be safe and it also gives a good indication fo the state of the engines tune. It was still so clean you could almost put your mouth the pipe and breath. lol
 
here in CA we have to have it on rollers, and with a 3L, headers/ypipe. the main cat and a brullen exhaust I passed with no problems, and I think CA has one of the toughest emissions tests :(
 
Hey war.... 5 years even for obd2's? And is that 5 years after owner change or 5 years after the initial registration?

With the nifty ecu check, I was hoping to never have to get on the sniffer dyno again. Hmm.. I wonder if I can get an emissions tune on my xcal2 (in case I don't blow clean).
 
morbid said:
Hey war.... 5 years even for obd2's? And is that 5 years after owner change or 5 years after the initial registration?

With the nifty ecu check, I was hoping to never have to get on the sniffer dyno again. Hmm.. I wonder if I can get an emissions tune on my xcal2 (in case I don't blow clean).
Click to expand...

Yeah, I think it only pertains to OBDII.
5 years just register, no sniffer test. Then you have to start the sniffer on the sixth year of registration. Even in the military I had to send back an inspection test result or get a waiver if there was no test locally and send it in to register in AZ and even then you can only do it once before you must go somewhere where you live to get an emissions test result for your next registration. :rolleyes:
It's also Only if your home of residence is in the big cities, Phoenix-Metro area and Tucson. Outside in the counties no emmissions tests anyways.

From what I understand it didn't matter who the owner was but was based on year of first registry.
 
ug... so I guess that would mean next year I have to look forward to someone sniffing my tail pipe. Thanks for that OT info!
 
D.I.S. ignition (someone asked on like page4) is just what MSD calls there distributorless ignition system, its there control box. up to 3000 rpm it actually sparks twice per revolution which burns the fuel more rapidly. the car will compensate for this difference. what it does is allows you to burn a tiny bit more fuel per combustion cycle on low rpms so your car has much more low rpm grunt so you can gain rpm faster. my car is strange though. i cant let out the clutch, roll at 1000 rpms, and burn out. it'll do it at about 2500 and hop a tad, and chirp second. it wont chirp third. but my motor mounts are really soft and old. i'm going to get poly stuff and a couple stabilizer links up top connected to the block to the chassis (obviously) to keep the motor from moving too much. that will make it more ridgid but its harder on the driveline. these cars dont have alot of low end torque becuase the SVT's have higher lift and duration cams than all the little crapboxes you are comparing it to. SVT wanted the car to have a nice steady, flat torque curve. thats what you have. when your buddys pull a fender on you in first you come right back in second with a car length (or thats my experience) the cams were designed by SVT with the help of roush racing. the cams will make cranking compression at low rpm much lower than at high rpm. if you want low end power, get a blower :)
 
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