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How is the turbo going to be set up? Is it run off of the front exhaust headder only, or are both banks tied into the turbo? Also, is the kit comming with an adjustable boost controller, and if not, do you know what the stock boost will be?
 
How is the turbo going to be set up? Is it run off of the front exhaust headder only, or are both banks tied into the turbo? Also, is the kit comming with an adjustable boost controller, and if not, do you know what the stock boost will be?

Both banks.

Im going to take a wild guess and say that the kit will not come with an adjustable boost controller. The wastegate does come with a preset spring. As to what you decide to do after you buy the kit is up to you. If they make a boost controller an option or standard, then people will want to upgrade to a dual stage or an electronic boost controller, or people will want to cut it out to save money. Im guessing small stuff like that that isn't neccessary will just complicate the cost of the kit, since people will always be wanting to change their mind. Its probably just easier to let the owner do what they want with the boost controller.

Btw, my Tial Wastegate from ADC came standard with a 4 psi spring and trust me, I still have traction issues with that much boost. Tom was making nearly 300 whp on 4.75 psi with his 3.0L. ;)
 
good thing is you guys who want to keep their duals can just cut off the merge and weld in there dual into my pipes. Which would will flow nicely back most likely the best flowing setup I can draw up in my head for sure. The kit is coming with a adjustable wastegate so you can adjust the wastegate to set your boost which is great for some people at least I think.

Oh yes it will be ran by both banks from a y-pipe to the T3 inlet flange.
 
You are pulling 364hp with just 4lbs? Impressive.
My 3.0l has forged pistons and rods and has 10,000 on it at the most. What would be a good psi to run on this without too much worry of premature engine failure?
How adjustable is the wastegate? 4-8psi, or liberally variable? I hope my questions aren't too analitical, I just like to know all the details before I buy something. So right now it is looking to be a turbo, intercooler, downpipe, and tuned chip in the package with the mounting hardware, correct? Does the buyer do his own intake system?
 
You are pulling 364hp with just 4lbs? Impressive.
My 3.0l has forged pistons and rods and has 10,000 on it at the most. What would be a good psi to run on this without too much worry of premature engine failure?
How adjustable is the wastegate? 4-8psi, or liberally variable? I hope my questions aren't too analitical, I just like to know all the details before I buy something. So right now it is looking to be a turbo, intercooler, downpipe, and tuned chip in the package with the mounting hardware, correct? Does the buyer do his own intake system?

lol no, i do have a boost controller. That was at 16 psi with an uncompleted pull at 4,700 rpms. Your vortech is non intercooled right? If you had a T3/T4 lets say, I dont think I would go much higher than 8-10 psi.
 
Both banks.

Im going to take a wild guess and say that the kit will not come with an adjustable boost controller. The wastegate does come with a preset spring. As to what you decide to do after you buy the kit is up to you. If they make a boost controller an option or standard, then people will want to upgrade to a dual stage or an electronic boost controller, or people will want to cut it out to save money. Im guessing small stuff like that that isn't neccessary will just complicate the cost of the kit, since people will always be wanting to change their mind. Its probably just easier to let the owner do what they want with the boost controller.

Btw, my Tial Wastegate from ADC came standard with a 4 psi spring and trust me, I still have traction issues with that much boost. Tom was making nearly 300 whp on 4.75 psi with his 3.0L. ;)

5.83psi spring, with a .75psi pressure drop in the intake after the intercooler made exactly 300wHP.
3.8psi spring yielded about 260wHP IIRC.
 
Questions about the downpipe pictures. I must be missing something. Why does it split from one pipe into two then back to one? Then, why doesn't it meet up with the exhaust pipe? I thought the object was to use the stock cat-back system.

Thanks for the hard work.
 
I mentioned earlier in first few post that the CAT is in the wrong place. I can't run the downpipes to the cat for several reasons one is that the flange is hard to find and it is in the way of the crossover pipe. I am supplying a section with SS flex pipe that will by pass the Factory Cat and go to the next two bolt flange. I will offer a high flow 2.5" Cat and even 3" Cat to those who have to have them . I was unable to retain the Factory cat sorry and the price will be somewhere between $80- $100 already welded to the section and SS flex so all you have to do is just bolt it up. The reason I have two pipes for the downpipe is for better flow and better ground clearance. Trust me I would love to take the short cut and let you have the less ground clearance but that was one of my pet peeves about my previous kit and the kit need to be right. Thanks Joey

Oh we are now a legit business for you guys who want to buy products from us I am working on a website now.
 
It splits because using the same size would require more ground clearance. Splitting to two slightly smaller pipes will provide more than enough surface area to make up for the size defecit.

Its a ground clearance, and ability-to-tuck-this-kit-up-in-to-the-frame kind of thing.
 
Hopefully there isn't a thread on this already, but I noticed your statement about 3" exhaust for those "who need it" What exactly determines the need for 3"? Is it having a 3L block?

I've always wondered if it was okay to upgrade to 3" without affecting the engine? I've heard there needs to be certain amounts of back pressure on the heads to keep from messing them up, or doing bad things to them. Is that myth or fact? Been watching this thread contently, so I hope this little off topic stitch doesn't cause too much fuss.

Thanks.
 
lol no, i do have a boost controller. That was at 16 psi with an uncompleted pull at 4,700 rpms. Your vortech is non intercooled right? If you had a T3/T4 lets say, I dont think I would go much higher than 8-10 psi.

What size are the T3/T4s? I am used to Mitsubishi turbos. I run an evo 3 16g turbo on my laser with 15psi. Two axles and a clutch later I am thinking it is a little overkill, but what a ride! My laser is the main reason I want to swap my Vortech for a turbo set-up.
 


What size are the T3/T4s? I am used to Mitsubishi turbos. I run an evo 3 16g turbo on my laser with 15psi. Two axles and a clutch later I am thinking it is a little overkill, but what a ride! My laser is the main reason I want to swap my Vortech for a turbo set-up.

Its a .57/.63 with a .60 AR.
 
Hopefully there isn't a thread on this already, but I noticed your statement about 3" exhaust for those "who need it" What exactly determines the need for 3"? Is it having a 3L block?

I've always wondered if it was okay to upgrade to 3" without affecting the engine? I've heard there needs to be certain amounts of back pressure on the heads to keep from messing them up, or doing bad things to them. Is that myth or fact? Been watching this thread contently, so I hope this little off topic stitch doesn't cause too much fuss.

Thanks.

Any turbo car will benefit from a 3" setup. It couldn't hurt.
 
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