• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Wastegate routing?

ryanblacksvt

I'm the Dork who ran 14.9 on PassTime. :)
Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
9,083
Location
Loganville,GA
I know that I am supposed to have my wastegate routed into my uim and I dont belive it is. The nipple with the hose attached pictured here (not my car)

2z3rs6d.jpg


Thats supposed to be routed to my uim as I am told. Mine there is no hose coming off the nipple, so I guess the wastegate isnt even opening?

If it is actually supposed to be routed into the uim where should I tap in for the connection on the 3l aluminum uim?
 
check the lower port on the waste gate, there should be two. you can see the second one in the picture.

if you only used the one you are talking about then yes the wastegate would not open as you would be applying boost pressure since its on the top side of the wastegate.

mine and most likely your is plumbed to the bottom side so that the boost pressure causes the wastegate to open.

if it wasn't openning it would keep making boost. I am sure once you hit the set boost it doesn't keep going up.
 
Realllly, ok yeah cause I monitor the boost guage and on low it dosent go past 8psi and on high 14psi. So its already ran into my uim then?
 
Ok so no need to do anything else with it?


I don't see why. are you getting all the boost and power that you want?


I believe the top port is used with automatic/electronic boost controllers or its used to help keep the wastegate closed under high boost situation. So i don't think you need to do anything else with it.
 
Ok cool. Yeah its going strong when in boost and the boost dosent drop off at any time so yeah I guess its fine. I just wanted to make sure.
 
lol, when I got an alignment done on my car last summer I had one of the tech come over to me and ask if i had a boost leak since the top port on the wastegate wasn't being used.
 
lol, when I got an alignment done on my car last summer I had one of the tech come over to me and ask if i had a boost leak since the top port on the wastegate wasn't being used.

See thats exactly what I was thinking, a boost leak or the wastgate wasnt opening, this puts my mind at ease:cool:
 
See thats exactly what I was thinking, a boost leak or the wastgate wasnt opening, this puts my mind at ease:cool:


if the waste gate didn't open it would continue to make boost and would not stop at your low or high setting. basically it would just blow the motor up.
 
if the waste gate didn't open it would continue to make boost and would not stop at your low or high setting. basically it would just blow the motor up.

Well its definitly opening then cause once it hits 8 or 14psi the boost stays there while my foot is in it.
 
Wow, this post is like AIM. LOL.

Just to add a 2nd opinion. As Brapple said, the top should be open. He is right that it is commonly used in boost controler applications.

I wondered the same thing when I first installed the kit, thought it was missing an adjustment screw or something.

I don't remember where that is routed to on your car, but if its holding at the boost you want...no need to worry. The main thing is that the boost gauge is reading manifold preasure therefore showing you the PSI the motor is actually seeing. Otherwise, if you take the boost guage reading, say off the compressor side of the turbo itself, the gauge will not be accounting for any preasure drop thru the intercooler and the motor may actually be seeing less boost than the gauge is reading.
 
Wow, this post is like AIM. LOL.

Just to add a 2nd opinion. As Brapple said, the top should be open. He is right that it is commonly used in boost controler applications.

I wondered the same thing when I first installed the kit, thought it was missing an adjustment screw or something.

Awsome, thanks you as well man.
 
I know that I am supposed to have my wastegate routed into my uim and I dont belive it is. The nipple with the hose attached pictured here (not my car)



Thats supposed to be routed to my uim as I am told. Mine there is no hose coming off the nipple, so I guess the wastegate isnt even opening?

If it is actually supposed to be routed into the uim where should I tap in for the connection on the 3l aluminum uim?

Ryan,

That nipple in your picture should ONLY be hooked up if you have full electronic boost controller capable of using it. If you put pressure on that side the gate will NEVER open under boost. The one that needs hooked up is on the opposite side of the diaphragm, closer to the gate side. That line should be hooked up and plumbed into your UIM.
 
See thats exactly what I was thinking, a boost leak or the wastgate wasnt opening, this puts my mind at ease:cool:

The reason for it is to prevent the wastegate from creeping open under increased exhaust pressure.
If you are using a high pressure spring then it is less likely an issue. If you you are using a low pressure spring and a boost controller then you will have it creep open from exhaust pressure alone and your peak boost will be gone.

My last dyno in Alabama had this happen because I was running the 3.5psi spring. After about 8-10psi boost on the manual controller the gate would start to open on it's own....telling me that the exhaust pressure was rising above the 3.5psi threshold of the gate. Boost would peak out suddenly then drop back down to 9-10psi. No matter how much I cranked it up, that is all it would hold.
So my rule of thumb is with a standard gate and manual controller you can only run boost equal to about 2.5x the gate spring rating unless you have a controller that applies pressure to that outer valve on the gate and opens it when max boost is reached.
 
My last dyno in Alabama had this happen because I was running the 3.5psi spring. After about 8-10psi boost on the manual controller the gate would start to open on it's own....telling me that the exhaust pressure was rising above the 3.5psi threshold of the gate. Boost would peak out suddenly then drop back down to 9-10psi. No matter how much I cranked it up, that is all it would hold.
So my rule of thumb is with a standard gate and manual controller you can only run boost equal to about 2.5x the gate spring rating unless you have a controller that applies pressure to that outer valve on the gate and opens it when max boost is reached.

I think that is what happened during my dyno. my peak boost was right around 3k and 4krpm, dipped when the secondaries openned. then after the the boost was jumping around and slowly fell as the rpms increased. This was at 10 psi, based on a 3.5 psi spring with mbc. I am planning on putting a 8psi spring back into the wastegate soon.

green line is boost, was t'd in at the bov
black is a/f
blue is torque
red is hp

picture.php
 
Thank you Tom, I meen damn dude where do you keep all that knowledge, do you have a storage shed in your mind:laugh:

But I think I may have the same problem that Brapple has as well. You tell me by my dyno chart Tom. This was with the old rfl that was leaking. I dont know what spring is in the wastegate.

dynocharts002.jpg
 
Yes, that looks like what mine was doing. I hit 350wHP on mine and that was with a 13psi spike at about 4000rpm then dropping down to 9-10psi as it pushed through 4800rpm or so and then stayed the same. So the more I cranked the manual controller the torque would rise in the 4000rpm range then always fall right back down to what 9psi would give me. :D Still good enough for 350 wheels though.

I think that is what happened during my dyno. my peak boost was right around 3k and 4krpm, dipped when the secondaries openned. then after the the boost was jumping around and slowly fell as the rpms increased. This was at 10 psi, based on a 3.5 psi spring with mbc. I am planning on putting a 8psi spring back into the wastegate soon.

green line is boost, was t'd in at the bov
black is a/f
blue is torque
red is hp

picture.php
 
Back
Top