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Vortech build

Another wind on the TB spring could help, or a secondary spring. Have you considered installing rigid heel rest to simply better control the movements of your foot?
 
I'm not sure how or if that would help, i like the ideas though, the engineer friends all told me to weld a larger cam on the throttle it self

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I'll play with the spring this weekend
 
..... you could try going down to an SE's 57mm T.B. ...... there must be a million of them knocking about

Putting a bigger cam on the TB might run into lack of pedal travel/ throttle opening issues

Don't understand the spring idea ... tighter will probably make the throttle jerky and induce R.S.I. in yer shin ....G.
 
....yeah, any alteration to the throttle / air will affect the tune ....... the PCM may handle some alterations better than others .... suck it and see situation

Can only think of some kind of mappable air bleed valve or 3.33pulley ... you have a 2.87 don't you ? ... G.
 
Beans said:
I'm not sure how or if that would help, i like the ideas though, the engineer friends all told me to weld a larger cam on the throttle it self

I'll play with the spring this weekend
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From what I recall of my track time in my car, keeping planted helped a ton with staying in control in all aspects of driving. My throttle finesse would get out of control on bumpy roads when I was street driving. Being able to plant my heel on something would have helped a ton.

Be careful once you start playing with the cam on the TB, you've only got so much throttle cable and the pedal has limited travel as well (hard stops in both directions). At least that's what this engineer friend has to say about it....

That graph makes me really regret selling my SC kit. Ugh.
 
I ended up doing another rotation on the stock spring. - It's tight now pedal is very firm, my only worry now is it will snap the cable.

The graph now with the retune is even better, i probably wont ever go back to a dyno anytime soon. but i bet a legit 30-40 whp over that tune, plus being able to rev over 5k



...Also doing another oil change 5w30 aint cutting it for these track days even with the big oil cooler up front, 10w40 is going in.
 
Beans said:
I ...Also doing another oil change 5w30 aint cutting it for these track days even with the big oil cooler up front, 10w40 is going in.
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.... in post #17 you said " i'll put my oil cooler in the hood latch area" is this where it is now?

... it is possible that being high up, the oil flow is restricted ..... being lower down or level with the oil pump may increase oil flow

If lowering the cooler is not possible, turning it on its side (hot oil in the top, cooler oil out the bottom) may improve the efficiency

most oil coolers have both unions on the same side (mine included), this is not ideal .....G.
 
..... you could take your oil cooler to a radiator repair place and ask them to add a connection union to the under side.

This would be your return line. The extra union on the top could be used for burping the cooler and topping up ....G.
 
Thats not happening lol. That cooler costs more than the radiator.

The simple fact is this engine is not meant for boost. 5-30 is too low of a heat range to take the abuse
 
Warmonger in the past even recommended 15W-50 or 20w-50 for summer use. I was using 15w-50 but it takes forever to warm up. I backed down to 10w-30 and might of used 5w-30 that last time since I don't drive it to much at the moment.
 
Beans said:
Thats not happening lol. That cooler costs more than the radiator.
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show off lol

Ok, this one's nice and cheap.

At the moment the oil cooler is sitting in a void where cool air is passing thru. The air flow will take the path off least resistance. So air is less likely to pass thru the cooler and then the radiator , if it can go around the cooler.

. So: take some card, like the stuff across the slam panel and make a duct that directs the air that is passing thru the cooler, up and into the engine bay thru the gap between the radiator and the slam panel. A piece of black wire mesh between the radiator and slam panel might look ok and be functional.

That is, a piece of card from the back of the cooler at the bottom to the front top edge of the radiator. Do a piece on the sides of the cooler too. This will direct air much better.

Any loss of air thru the radiator causing higher water temps should be handled by the existing electric fans ( ASSUMING THEY WORK PROPERLY )

got to go .... want to see Comey flush Pres. Trump down the pipe !!!! ....G.
 
Yeah, i'll figure somthing out when the motor comes out again.

Thanks for the input brapple. Street driving had no issues with the 5-30 but i was keeping a close eye on oil pressure and temp it was getting scary 280F at 16-17 psi idle. Normally it never sees less than 20psi at a very hot idle (block psi)
 
Autox went well today.

Oil change - Very good, no issues even with co-driver 10 runs.

Spring pressure on pedal. - Very good, much easier to control.

Front roll bar delete. Very good more grip up front. Tail is happier
 
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