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Turbo SVT 3.0 @ quarter mile

i see. so i should go to a higher stage once i break axles?

and whats with all the wheel hop? try some torque links along with poly roll resistors. engine movement doesnt help wheel hop. of course the tighter the motor is the harder it is on the drivetrain. i guess i just dont have the same problems you guys have. wheel hop isnt on my list yet, thank god :)
 
96BlackSE said:
You should be running the azenis way higher than 12psi... They are not slicks or drag radials which are gonna give you more traction the lower you run them...
Also I would do much smaller burn outs on the azenis you don't have to heat them up that much... You are actually heating them up too much making them less sticky...

Also try out a second gear launch it might help you out

BTW your car sounds awesome :)
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Right! Adjust your tire pressure so the contact is maximized (~35 psi). Also.. do not heat them up. Azenis (RT-215's and RT-615's) become greasy when hot. You might even do well by bringing a bug sprayer filled with water and cool off your tires inbetween runs (like most autocrossers do with these tires).
 
Azenis are lousy drag tires. I would vote for leaving them soft, though. 35 PSI is not going to make a bigger contact patch than 20psi.
 
They're better than most performance street tires... like say BFG KD's and G-Force's. Kumho MX's were alright off the line, but if they started spinning, there was no real hope of regaining decent traction. As far as I know... all Yokohama's still suck as drag tires. Also, the Azenis RT-615's were rated better for drag racing than the Hankook Z212's (per GRM).
 
Auto-X Fil said:
I would vote for leaving them soft, though. 35 PSI is not going to make a bigger contact patch than 20psi.
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On a "STREET" tire (not wrinkle wall drag tire!) 30psi certainly is. The middle of the tread concaves under load when under inflated. 30psi is almost underinflated for a low profile performance street radial tire. IMHO 30psi is. However in any opinion 25 psi is vastly underinflated and 20psi is just plain flat!

You will get a better contact patch and exponentially less rotating resistance from a properly inflated tire. (i.e. ~35psi) Some low profile tires like near 40psi for optimum contact patch. Past that point you are trading off convexing the tread for less sidewall rollover.


I would think a self proclaimed auto-crosser would know these facts. :confused:
 
BurritaSVT, it sounds like you REALLY need a boost controller.

Does anyone make a traction based boost controller? I know that MSD makes a box that limits power based on RPMs (wheelspin). May be worth a look.

I can't wait to have the kind of power you are putting down. :drool: :drool:

BP
 
I don't know how much larger you are looking to go, but I've got a standard shaft T04B "H" trim compressor wheel and housing w/ about 400 miles on them that I'm currently using on my Mustang, but I'm finding that I'm running into problems with my compressor being too small for my application as well, of-course I knew when I bought it that I would eventually decide it was too small, I just did not think that would happen so quickly. Anyway, my point is that if you are interested at all, toss me a PM.
 
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SVT SNOB said:
Cool video. That is why I would never put that much HP in a CSVT, just seems like it takes all the fun out of driving if there is that much traction issues.

Aaron
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traction issues can be delt with with the correct adjustments to the power train and the right tires.
 
AliasJerk said:
traction issues can be delt with with the correct adjustments to the power train and the right tires.
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.....says the guy who thinks a 24V Taurus HAULS!!! :laugh:

With that said, @ about 300/300 in my car, I didn't really have many traction problems after 1st gear. I could go from a 2nd gear roll @ 40 mph, hammer down, and the tires would not spin! I'd like to hear 99cougar chime in, as with a larger shot of nitrous than I was running, we were both at about the same power. He seems to run pretty good times as well, which is probably due to traction. My setup that has anything to do with traction:

Koni's on FULL STIFF w/ Eibach springs
Energy Suspension roll resistor
225/45/17 tires. (last were 60 treadware, while my current tires are 140)

Mark
 
Y2KSVT said:
.....says the guy who thinks a 24V Taurus HAULS!!! :laugh:

With that said, @ about 300/300 in my car, I didn't really have many traction problems after 1st gear. I could go from a 2nd gear roll @ 40 mph, hammer down, and the tires would not spin! I'd like to hear 99cougar chime in, as with a larger shot of nitrous than I was running, we were both at about the same power. He seems to run pretty good times as well, which is probably due to traction. My setup that has anything to do with traction:

Koni's on FULL STIFF w/ Eibach springs
Energy Suspension roll resistor
225/45/17 tires. (last were 60 treadware, while my current tires are 140)

Mark
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Well on the street mine will grad at the top of 2nd with the 100shot. If i nail it in second it will break loose at 4,000, because that's where i have the window switch set, and then at about 62-6300ish it will grab a little. This is with my 19's, and the Koni's set to full SOFT. However i think my exhaust is a SERIOUS restriction in this process...

A few weeks ago i had planned on going to the track on a Saturday. I had been riding around on my stockies for a week or two anyway, waiting on tires for the 19's. My stock 16s have 225/50s on them with a treadwear of 140(Bridgstone Potenza something or another lol). Anyway...with a 125 shot, no catback, and those tires it would break loose when i hit the nitrous in 3rd!

It is basically all in how you moderate the throttle, and what kind of tires you have. If the tires spin, then go out and practice to see what throttle % you can run, and still keep a fair amount of traction.

I wish i were rich so i could just ride around with some drag radials all day! :)
 
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99cougar said:
I wish i were rick so i could just ride around with some drag radials all day! :)
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The problem is they truly suck when your turning I was actually scared the first time i took a moderate turn with them but they help launching a whole lot, tires still spin but you move as your spinning and at the same time leave two nice patches on the ground
 
Demon, us "self-proclaimed autocrossers" run frighteningly low pressures in our stiff-walled R-comp tires. Sidewalls are not stiff enough to support the car on even V710s - it's the air holding the car up, and lower pressures produce mechanical grip. Many Miata folk running stock class at the national level are using stock-size wheels with 20psi stiff-wall tires. It doesn't feel pretty, but the grip is phenomenal.
 
But for street tires... I'd consider anything less than ~28psi flat. Around 20-22psi your rims will be mashing the sidewalls into the pavement.

The point was that for street tires, underinflating the tire will concave the center of the tire and the contact patch will be less than optimal. Adverse to this, over inflating (~ >=40 psi) will result in convexing the center.

Special purpose tires like r-compound and drag radials are not street tires. Drag radials are supposed to be underinflated. And since r-compounds usually have super stiff sidewalls, underinflating might not be as dangerous as underinflating street tires, but it does sound like you'd be running on the sidewalls. I've seen the local miata guys running 23-25psi, but they're also about 1000lbs lighter than our cars.
 
I dont understand why nobody skips gears.... Every time you guys are jumping from 1st to 2nd to 3rd... and so on... Why not start in first then go straight to 3rd then to 4th. Seems like you loose the most time in 2nd just spinning tires, if you have low speed in 3rd you wont break traction and get the most bang for your buck.
 
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