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Thump from the Rear

In my experience its pretty normal for sway bars. I've pulled sway bars off Texas cars that never saw snow or road salt but they looked like they had.
 
My svt was making simular noise{kinda like the spare tire bouncing around} ended up being struts and mounts. Car had 85,000 at the time. the rubber on the strut mount was so worn it was egg shaped, alowing the strut to move around and make banging noises.
 
2000SVT449 said:
...the rubber on the strut mount was so worn it was egg shaped, alowing the strut to move around and make banging noises.
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Is this something I could see by emptying the trunk, pulling the carpet back, and riding in the trunk while the wife drives over potholes?
 
Put mine on a lift today and found out the bushings for the rear sway bar were shot!
Where did you get your bushings at and how much $$$.
 
Scorpion8 said:
Is this something I could see by emptying the trunk, pulling the carpet back, and riding in the trunk while the wife drives over potholes?
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No. The rear strut mounts are installed entirely from the outside of the car and can't be seen from the inside. You will need to remove the strut/spring assembly to see the strut mount. However, it isn't all that hard. Also, I would find it less likely that this is your problem. The most common cause for "clunking" or "thumping" from the rear suspension seems to be blown struts, and bad sway bar bushings/end link bushings.
 
zorrex said:
No. The rear strut mounts are installed entirely from the outside of the car and can't be seen from the inside. You will need to remove the strut/spring assembly to see the strut mount. However, it isn't all that hard. Also, I would find it less likely that this is your problem. The most common cause for "clunking" or "thumping" from the rear suspension seems to be blown struts, and bad sway bar bushings/end link bushings.
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Thanks. My new sway bar bushings and end link bushings are on the way.
 
zorrex said:
No. The rear strut mounts are installed entirely from the outside of the car and can't be seen from the inside. You will need to remove the strut/spring assembly to see the strut mount. However, it isn't all that hard. Also, I would find it less likely that this is your problem. The most common cause for "clunking" or "thumping" from the rear suspension seems to be blown struts, and bad sway bar bushings/end link bushings.
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im talking about the nut on top. you get to it from the trunk area of the car. pull back the carpeting. you'll see what im talking about
 
it was a huge problem on my car. all four konis. i had no idea what the banging was my first couple weeks owning the car. finally the nut backed all the way off on the driver front and all hell broke loose. i got the car back to the shop and found that the pass. front was backed out more than an inch. the rears werent tight either!
 
I've had a similar thumping noise for quite some time. I finally got around to replacing the rear sway bar links this w/n and the thump is gone. Not only were the isolators shot, but the grommet on the top of the link was in pretty rough shape as well. One quick install suggestion: there is a slot that allows you to gain access to the isolators. You can use this to pry the new isolator in w/ a screwdriver (be careful not to damage the rubber isolator).
 
Thats what I like about the Energy Suspension pieces. They're separated so no prying or damaging necessary. One sits on top and the bottom fits right into it.
 
They should still have a hub store that can deliver specialty parts when they get their regular weekly shipment in.
 
I also have had the BAT suspension on for a few years now and my "thump" in the right rear finally got really bad last month. I had checked everything mentioned in the Forum several times in the past. This time I used a small inspection mirror in the trunk so I could see into the access hole for the shock tower. Not only was the top nut backed off so it hit the body, but it was off center. When I took off the strut, I found that the top strut mount was broken in the center. I am sure it broke from the excess play due to the loose nut. A new one cost $45 from Rock (plus shipping) or $77 from NAPA. This time, I double nutted the top so it would not come loose again. I think the stiffer suspension sometimes loosens these nuts. My other side was fine though.
 
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