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**STANCE/FITMENT THREAD** Have Questions About Wheel Fitment and Adjustable Suspension? Ask Here!

You could do all that, but that's mad money you're looking at, well, a little more expensive than what I have in mind. You could do body work. Like I said, it takes time money, and/or know how. OR, if you just happen to like the style, stretch and poke.

BUT, let assume that you don't want to mess with that much body work, meaning, no addition of slight flares, cutting, welding, etc.

Roll and pull fenders, done in a few hours. That'll reduce the appearance of how much poke
Camber kit up front, adjustable some kind of camber arm in the rear. Easy enough to install and find the proper camber alignment to push the "poke" inward to appear more flush.

Like I said before and in this post, you can make anything fit with time, money, and know how.

My way of doing it and to keep it perfectly simple would be the more expensive way to do it, and just do as you said, custom rims. I've priced a few different sets of rims, and well, they're all at least 250 a piece. BUT, that's the price you pay. But anyways, the prices were 250 a rim, 299 a rim, and 699 a rim. 699 being my dream rims. But custom width, offset, in 17s.
 
take the wheels to a machine shop and have them shave the back of the mounting face of the rim to increase the offset. this can only be done if there is enough material that shaving a few mms worth off isnt going to make the metal to thin.
 
striker2 said:
take the wheels to a machine shop and have them shave the back of the mounting face of the rim to increase the offset. this can only be done if there is enough material that shaving a few mms worth off isnt going to make the metal to thin.
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That too, but I stay away from that.
 
rexxdoggy said:
That too, but I stay away from that.
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there is nothing wrong with doing it as long as there is enough material to do it safely. most factory OEM rims have enough material to shave a couple mms and gain some offset, but a lot of aftermarket rims do not.
 
Hopefully this isn't too far off the subject, but what consideration goes into a spacer? I've heard of them, but never used them. Why would you need concentric or self aligning rings? I wouldn't think they'd have to sit perfectly concentric on the hub, but what do I know? Materials to consider or is aluminum standard?
Links for buyers? Brands? Is one spacer just as good as the next?
Erick --
 
Well, generic spacers won't be hubcentric, so you have the possibility of it sliding around, regardless of how tight you think the lug nuts are on, causing slight vibrations. Hubcentric ones will sit properly with the hub bore and won't move around. I don't have hubcentric ones, but I haven't felt any difference in drivability, such as odd vibrations. I had those vibrations before I put them on, and they're still the same with them now, so I'm sure it has to be an alignment thing. Adding wheel spacers is like adding rims with a higher offset, like mentioned at the very beginning of the thread, and have the same effect on the stress put on the wheel bearings.

As far as different material goes, I couldn't tell you about the differences lol There are lots of sellers who deal with spacers, as well as many different brands, two of which that I know are popular are Eibach and H&R spacers, and in general, any spacer over 10 or 15mm come with extended lug nuts. As far as different brand spacers, couldn't tell you either lol

And your questions aren't off subject what so ever. Spacers are definitely heavily involved in the stance scene. A bunch of my friends I know that are stanced, about 95% of them have spacers on their cars.
 
rexxdoggy said:
My way of doing it and to keep it perfectly simple would be the more expensive way to do it, and just do as you said, custom rims. I've priced a few different sets of rims, and well, they're all at least 250 a piece. BUT, that's the price you pay. But anyways, the prices were 250 a rim, 299 a rim, and 699 a rim. 699 being my dream rims. But custom width, offset, in 17s.
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Let me guess... some sort of CCW wheel for the dream rims??
 
rexxdoggy said:
Hahahahahahahahahaha, you win sir. The LM20s, BUT, they say they only do for 5 lug, so it would definitely be a little bit more than 675, actually of what it was. So 700+. Other than that, it would be the Classics.
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True Forged > CCW.

Steve can have any wheel made in 4 X 108, with whatever offset you would want, and since your a member here on CEG they would probably be less than what the CCW's cost and you get a better quality wheel. I never have been a fan of the way the "stepped lips" are on a CCW 3 piece wheel... the only time True Forged uses a stepped lip is when the rear wheel is over 11" wide, which I don't think you'd have to worry about.

Although since you mentioned wanting a set of CCW's... he might not be so kind to you on pricing now :laugh:



Shannon
 
Kilroy said:
True Forged > CCW.

Steve can have any wheel made in 4 X 108, with whatever offset you would want, and since your a member here on CEG they would probably be less than what the CCW's cost and you get a better quality wheel. I never have been a fan of the way the "stepped lips" are on a CCW 3 piece wheel... the only time True Forged uses a stepped lip is when the rear wheel is over 11" wide, which I don't think you'd have to worry about.

Although since you mentioned wanting a set of CCW's... he might not be so kind to you on pricing now :laugh:



Shannon
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I'm not biased in anyway cause I can't afford to get either wheels, but I don't think you can say TF is better quality than CCW, especially if it's just cause you don't like the lips used on the CCW wheels. CCW's wheels are very high quality and look amazing, and so are TF's wheels too.

That being said:
modp_1011_01_o+forgeline_center_lock_wheels+side_view.jpg


AMS-Performance-Blue-demon-evo-buildTime-attack-evo9-04280903.jpg


Forgeline FTW
 
CRG Racer24 said:
I'm not biased in anyway cause I can't afford to get either wheels, but I don't think you can say TF is better quality than CCW, especially if it's just cause you don't like the lips used on the CCW wheels. CCW's wheels are very high quality and look amazing, and so are TF's wheels too.
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Well perhaps I shouldn't have said a better "quality" wheel... I suppose they are both quality wheels I just prefer True Forged more. I suppose it could be since I have a set of Steve's wheels on my car, but Steve has awesome customer service. UPS screwed one of my wheels up in transit, and even with the wheels being bought "used" he helped get me taken care of with minimal outlay of cash on my part. The wheels were insured but UPS wouldn't cover the claim as they said "it wasn't packaged to their standards."

That being said when you order a set of True Forged wheels you get EXACTLY what you want. No assembly bolts? Sure. Centers or lips color matched? Yeah that too. Custom offsets and widths? You got it. I don't know if any of the other Forged wheel companies will do this stuff... of course I haven't checked with them either to see. Your mileage may vary.

Pricewise I know the price he quoted me for a set of 17's was much more affordable than what a set of CCW's would have been. I lost my job which is why I didn't buy a set for the Contour which is what he quoted me for.



Shannon
 
rexxdoggy said:
I beg to differ. You CAN make ANY wheel fit with resources (time, money, and know how, or any combination of two basically)

With that being said, I want to address the first comment



You can make those work. The only thing to take into consideration is the hub size of rims if they are all the same pattern. Then again, with our cars, 4x108 isn't shared among many cars. 4 off the top of my head that I know are interchangable. You can have a rim that's 4x108, but with a hub that's less than the Contour's, which I believe is 63.1? Someone please correct me. Than the rim will not sit properly onto the hub surface. Then again, I've never heard of a rim not fitting because of hub sizes lololololololol Anyways, with the offset that you are looking for, it means that the rim will be pushed out slightly more than what the recommended offset suggests, but not by much. But, the wider you go, you need to make sure you have a lower offset to push the rim out more to clear your shock body. An 18x7.5 with an offset of 38-40 like you suggested should be fine with clearance I believe.[/QUOTE

Thanks alot!!
I got my wheel in last week.
18x7.5 42mm offset.
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