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Spun yet another bearing

i have not. motor is still in the car. havent had a chance to do anything other than check that they are bad. my other cougar started pissing coolant out of the side of the radiator i so i need to fix that first.

npg sells the K1 rods, are they any different or good/worse than the pauter rods?
 
jaged said:
i have not. motor is still in the car. havent had a chance to do anything other than check that they are bad. my other cougar started pissing coolant out of the side of the radiator i so i need to fix that first.

npg sells the K1 rods, are they any different or good/worse than the pauter rods?
Click to expand...

Well, I suspect that Pauters may be stronger than the K-1s but do not have documented proof of this. I can say the following about each:

K-1 4340 rods cost ~ $650 from NPG and weigh ~ 535 grams each (lighter of the two). The length is claimed to be 5.440". These are H-beam rods.

http://www.k1technologies.com/Rods/tabid/57/Default.aspx

Pauter 4340 rods cost ~ $1290 according to their website and weigh ~ 591 grams each (heavier of the two). The length is claimed to be 5.433". The Pauter design can be described as a "cross" pattern that helps reduce oil windage relative to H-beams.

http://www.pauter.com/mazda_ford.htm

Both manufacturers include ARP2000 fasteners.

Tricker did make a claim in one discussion thread (I think it's in CSVT#49's 3.0 build thread) that K-1s were having suspect QC but he never backed-up his claim with any evidence (nobody challenged his claim either). Other than that one negative statement, I've never heard of a problem with K-1s. I'm going to use them in my build and not lose a nights sleep over the choice. My build is just an N/A application so I don't have to seek out the absolute strongest rods possible. If you are going to go for Noble M400 type of output, those engines use Scat 4340 connecting rods.

The only difference that jumps out between the two that begs a question to me is "Look at the difference in the claimed length of the two. Does that cause a problem with piston-to-cylinder head or piston-to-crankshaft counterweight clearance?"
 
If you buy the K1 rods straight from the manf. (which is actually distributed by Wiseco) then you can pick them up for $620, NPG marks them up a decent amount.

K1 rods are used by a lot of people and I asked the guys that did my engine machining work about them and they haven't had any problems with them. They build an awful lot of engines each year many of which are for race teams.

IMO Pauter rods are not worth double the cost of the K1's. Also as for the SCAT rods... they do not make any rods for the Duratec. I asked them about the rods that were used on the Noble M400 engines and the guy said he couldn't find any documentation for the rods and that they may have just been a custom run for them.
 
i was able to crawl under the car tonight. my initial thoughts were off. none of them have any up and down, they all have left to right. according to the ford shop manual you can have some left to right play. pulled the first cap off and the bearing looked fine. there were some lines on it, but for a 70k motor they look fine. pulled the valve covers off, and everything looks fine. is there a way to check if one of the lifters wasnt coming up all the way?
 
Yes, you can press down on RFF which is sitting on top of the lash adjusters. They really shouldn't compress unless you push down with a lot of pressure. If they compress easily then remove and replace that lash adjuster. I used a socket extension push down on them. All you have to do is remove the valve covers (cams can be installed still).
 
Jaged, I just got a chance to watch the video you posted and that definitely sounds like either lifter tick or a plug wire not seated properly. My VR4 makes a similar noise and I know its just the lifters, I need to find the money and time to replace them with 3rd gen lifters.
 
i had issues getting one of the plug wires seated, so i double checked all of them so they were seated good, ill check to make sure that the plugs all were tight

blackcoog, will it be the same even after all the oil has drained out of it?

joe, that would be epicly awesome
 
They should hold pressure for a very long time so yes. It should be obvious if there is a bad one. It will collapse right away and it's unlikely more than one will fail. Some collapse enough so the RFF falls completely out of place and rattles around in the head.
 
i may have gotten lucky. i went out and pressed on all of the rff's and none of them budged, until i got to the last one. rear bank drivers side intake cam had one that had some wiggle in it. going to shoot and load a vid here in a second *fingers crossed*


I had to compress one of my extras i had lying around. all the motor work ive done and ive never seen one of these compress
 
Even thought I don't know much about this area, I have taken them apart and I don't remember any having play like that.......
 
cant till tomorrow. had dog class last night, and an autox meeting tonight. and i need to run to the store to get oil
 
It's hard to tell how much pressure you are putting on it because you can get all of them to compress if you push hard enough. If it feels different than the others then get another one in there.

BTW that motor is dirty what are you running in there chocolate. :)
 
i leaned on the rest of them and they didnt more, this one i didnt have to push hard at all and it wiggled.

i know its dirty, im going to clean it up before it goes back together
 
HLA's will push down like that and still be okay. Not only that, but ONE failed HLA will TAP TAP TAP at a relatively slow rate at idle.

Just so you know the Capaldi cougar had V8 taurus SHO connecting rod bearings and mobil1 15-40 oil. The oil pan was also modified a bit. I think it had some baffles welded to the tray and a trapdoor or something. I dont remember a high pressure oil pump.... The accusump was charged to like 80psi iirc. The valve was set to only dump below a certain psi though. We never managed to fail a motor.... we broke like 900 transmissions though.
 
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