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Speaker in the back window?

Thats a bit of a stretch, bass sounds are movement of air = sonic/seismic motion. Now with that cover, an 6.5" cone can not move as much air as a 18" cone. Now the voice coil at the bottom of the cone is the real player here. So when it comes to subs the longer or even better a dual voice coil is best in a sub design. A box/ housed enclosure helps a sub reach deeper sounds through port tunning while using less power to push the sub driver itself. So if you used a reference track (test tones) to test ur system you would see that a 6.5 sub driver would not be able to keep up with a 18" sub if the designs where the same (voice coil, wattage capacity).
 
i guess you've never seen a 6.5 hit 130db at 28hz have you?

sure, the 18 would hit louder, but the 6.5 can get just as low!

cone air/air movement helps with loudness, not the subs ability to produce low frequencey notes.
 
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pre98zetec said:
i guess you've never seen a 6.5 hit 130db at 28hz have you?

sure, the 18 would hit louder, but the 6.5 can get just as low!

cone air/air movement helps with loudness, not the subs ability to produce low frequency notes.
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You just prove my point. The 6.5" can not produce the same loudness as the 18" reproduces, thus the 18" moves more air resulting in more seismic motion. I never said the 6.5 could not go as low, but could not produce the same volume of sound.
 
loudness and lowness are two different issues..

i said a 6.5 could get as low as a 18" and you basically said no.

of course its not going to have the same output, if that was the case wouldnt everyone run 6.5s?
 
you should re-read my post and you would see that I said "6.5" would not be able to keep up with an 18" sub. now if you have ever used a test tone track you will know that the freq will start at a low volume and rise up until it peaks, thus the 6.5" would not be able to keep up with a 18" So my point is true. To interpret a 6.5 may be able to hit as low, but not as loud, and loud is what most of us are looking for.

The bass ppl are looking for is the kind that they can feel, and the best kind is tight and hits like a punch in the chest, not the lingering boominess you hear from most ppl cars. So as you put it youself a 6.5 really can't keep up or we all would be having them instead of spending the cash for the 18". So there is no reason to compare a 6.5" to a 18" if it can't handle the volume level ppl are looking to play them at. I have a pair of 12" (boxed) in the trunk and a 8" in the rear deck. The 8" does great with the 12" at low volume, but as I crank it up the 8" distorts. Not from lack of ability to hit the low freq but its just can't push the air fast enough to recover for the next tone which results in a muddy sound and loss of the tightness in the bass. I just switch it off at high volume.

:cool: :cool: :cool:
 
Recoveryone said:
you should re-read my post and you would see that I said "6.5" would not be able to keep up with an 18" sub. now if you have ever used a test tone track you will know that the freq will start at a low volume and rise up until it peaks, thus the 6.5" would not be able to keep up with a 18" So my point is true. To interpret a 6.5 may be able to hit as low, but not as loud, and loud is what most of us are looking for.

The bass ppl are looking for is the kind that they can feel, and the best kind is tight and hits like a punch in the chest, not the lingering boominess you hear from most ppl cars. So as you put it youself a 6.5 really can't keep up or we all would be having them instead of spending the cash for the 18". So there is no reason to compare a 6.5" to a 18" if it can't handle the volume level ppl are looking to play them at. I have a pair of 12" (boxed) in the trunk and a 8" in the rear deck. The 8" does great with the 12" at low volume, but as I crank it up the 8" distorts. Not from lack of ability to hit the low freq but its just can't push the air fast enough to recover for the next tone which results in a muddy sound and loss of the tightness in the bass. I just switch it off at high volume.

:cool: :cool: :cool:
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That's why some speakers like components... have 6.5" that are called "woofers" and the speakers you put in your trunk for really deep bass, are called 'SUB-woofers"

  • Sub Woofer = boom boom bass bewow I can't feel my chest
  • Woofer = mild thumper nice little addon - do you subs question comes up a lot....
  • Mid - can have some thump depending on setup, but not really meant to be a sub.... they be covering pretty much full range if they're components...
  • tweeter - Hear those vocals baby so clearly!!
  • super-tweeter - Hear those high pitched vocals even more OMFG turn it down my ears are bleeding...

my sad list with sad equivalents
 
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Youngkidwithnomoney said:
Ya. Thanks guys. They are freeair subs that would go there correct? I'll read more of that rear deck thread. Do you guys suggest going with subs in a box in the trunk, or a free air in the rear deck? I'm just scared of the trunk raddle from the subs in the trunk.
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The only thing that rattles on the rear deck is the 3rd tail light, which you can find some way to secure if you be creative.

That being said, I have experience numerious free air subs, and enclosed box subs, and I have to say my best experience came from a small 8 inch JL audio sub enclosed in a low profile box, I dont know if I just heard some bad subs, but to me free air, unless its stock, just sounds cheap.
 
CSVT_2004 said:
Guess it depends on your opinion on how things sound...
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For a little extra bump in the trunk, its not to bad. I dont like loud bass that much, but the free-air sounds pretty good, just make sure you put lots of dynamat stuff of your choice down.
 
My wife just asked why I was crying, I showed her this post, and now we are both crying. How truly sad.

(not directed towards the original poster who asked a legitimate question and not directed towards the few that posted something of value)
 
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