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Spark Plug Replacement Recommendations

D

Dug-a-Lug

Be Gentle I'm New Here
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
2
Looking at replacing the spark plugs on my 2000 SVT. Curious for recommendations as the rear 3 are a little buried. What should be moved out of the way, or what has worked best for you? Any information will be greatly appreciated!
 
100% agreed. if you watch out you shouldn't scratch your hands up too bad. extensions are your friend in this case. the front spark plugs are obviously easy to do. i have the motorcraft 432's in my car now, they are just fine. some others here have gone a different route.
 
Coil pack is the only thing that is really helpful to remove...again, its not necessary, but I find it helpful.

Autolite double platinums are the most common, and most highly regarded on here. Make sure you gap them accordingly.
 
I find it easier to remove the coil pack. It is only four small bolts (7 mm if I remember correctly, and it helps to have a 1/4 drive swivel socket). In my opinion, the two rear bolts don't need to be replaced. Make sure you pay attention to the ground straps and put them back as you found them.

As for the plugs, Autolite APP104 works fine, but I think the XP104 works a little better and is a closer match to the original plug. XP is a thin wire iridium / platinum plug. Gap is .052" to .056" and my preference is to set them at the wide side of spec.
 
crewchiefpro said:
I think Ford announced that the gap should be 1 mm now. I run .035 in mine but it's turbocharged. wider gaps cause wires to go away quicker.
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I guess we have a difference in professional opinion. My opinion is based on experience of several years as a tune-up tech and from the results of my own car. My original wires had about 150,000 miles on them and the only reason I changed them was that I wanted a set of red ones. The current set has 110,000 miles on it with no sign of weakness. Plugs have been changed every 60,000 miles.

Closing the gap when not needed tends to destabilize idle quality. The spark is not as hot, and can lead to a miss, especially when the engine is running in a somewhat lean mode.

My suggestion is only to move to the outer limit of spec, not beyond.

The problem with blowing out wires and other secondary ignition parts is from worn plugs, not from plugs set to the wide side of spec.

The need to close the gap when boost is added is legitimate, but it is a separate issue. When cylinder pressure is increased dramatically, the gap needs to be closed, or the available voltage needs to be increased, along with more robust wires to support the added voltage. If this is not done, there will be a miss under load.
 
I wrote up a how to on spark plug changes in the duratec how-to section. Take a gander at it. I don't know who has the piano hands to get at the back plugs with the coil pack still on but I sure don't. Seriously it takes literally a minute to remove and it makes the job SO much easier. APP104s or XP104s are the plugs you want. Gap is .52-.56 and you'll be good to go. The PO of my car had regular old copper Autolites in there and the car would stumble off the line often and randomly die when going to idle while rolling to a stop. So yeah make sure you use the right plugs lol.
 
Just remove the coil pack if your hands are any bigger than a 10 year olds. It takes no time at all and makes it that much easier. It's only 4 bolts and you can get right in there and go at it!
 
Has anyone tried the denso IT16 spark plugs? I believe these come pre-gapped at .035 but should I gap them to the .052 - .056 that its supposed to be for this car? The tip is so small on these Im afraid of breaking them.....
 
wupatt said:
Has anyone tried the denso IT16 spark plugs? I believe these come pre-gapped at .035 but should I gap them to the .052 - .056 that its supposed to be for this car? The tip is so small on these Im afraid of breaking them.....
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seriously? did you not check your other thread? yes you want to gap them. if you are worried about the tip then you dont know how to properly gap a spark plug. properly gaping a plug requires the proper tool and does not put any pressure against the tip of the plug.
 
I was going to post the same thing in this thread that I posted in the other thread. If he doesn't know then I recommend he use this site for a wealth of information on basic automotive maintenance.
 
Did my plugs and wires this morning using NGK Iridiums and OEM Motorcraft wires. I haven't driven it much since, but seems to have made a nice difference. The plugs I pulled were Motorcraft platinums, some of which were rusting...
 
Don't be surprised if the NGK's wear very quickly. Some people have no issues with them, but other people have very finicky ignition system which won't tolerate anything but OEM replacements. If you start experiencing hesitation or misfires look at the plugs first.
 
I think NGK plugs were OEM in the Mazdas that had the 2.5L, "Duratec" V6 engine...

(Though not the Iridium IXs)...

And while it's too early to tell, it seems my gas mileage is just blowing up!
 
Tape the extensions together so they don't fall apart. I've had good luck with the Autozone iridium pugs, forget the brand, with no gap change.

Mike
 
mrutkaus said:
Tape the extensions together so they don't fall apart. I've had good luck with the Autozone iridium pugs, forget the brand, with no gap change.

Mike
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Ugh, again with terrible advice. GAP THE PLUGS! You do NOT want to install ungapped plugs, they wind up being like .035 which is WAY under what they should be at.
 
Hey I'm just getting in on this topic... I just bought copper autolite plugs after a recommendation from the SVT guy at the dealer. I first gap'd them to 050 and the car didn't have the power it used to... I talked to two different mechanic friends of mine and they both said the same thing, really good plugs but definately much smaller gap... So I just took them out, regap'd them to 041 and the car runs great!! The copper plugs don't last nearly half as long as the platinums, but they're exactly a quarter of the price, and run a better spark...
 
ngk platnuim are good i think its what i got.....but how do you know what pulgs are best whould you get 1 or 2 mpg more. smoother idel or maby your neck will snap back more? i dont think so....and you do not have to remove the coilpack at all!
 
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