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RAD's 3L build

RAD Merc SVT said:
So how can I repair them? and the only thing I use from the 3L for the coolant is the water pump?
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Well... really the best thing would be just to pull some new ones from a junk yard. However if you have both pieces you can use vacuum line to reconnect the two pieces where it snapped.
 
RAD Merc SVT said:
So how can I repair them? and the only thing I use from the 3L for the coolant is the water pump?
Click to expand...

That's all you should need from the 3L for the cooling system. I did my cooling lines a few months ago, but the way I remember it the water pump was left on the 3L and all the rest came from the 2.5 and it all hooked up like the original engine did. I thought the cooling system was going to be a hassle but it ended up being just like stock.
 
Ok guys I have a problem. Unfortunataly its not anything you guys can help me with. I have no patience. The weird thing is when it comes to working on my engine and other parts of my car I don't mind spending 4 hours putting in one bolt if thats what it takes to do it right. But right now I'm painting and I'm doing a terrible job and I know it and I'm still not doing anything about it I'm just gonna get it done. ...sigh... I can't wait to have money and I can have Blu PC all my stuff. I hate painting. Haha thanks for listening
 
Now that the engine is coming together I'm starting to look at the little things. So my questions for you guys is will I get any gains from running larger injectors? From the things I've read about MAFs I still have no idea what any of it means. Will I get any gains from a larger MAF? and do SVTs have different MAFs?

Here is a list of the engine mods
04 3L taurus portmatched
mildly ported heads with 3 angle valve job
Big Bore LIM
Ported and matched UIM
headers and eventually a true dual
optimized SVT TB
SVT cams
19# SVT injectors
and whatever MAF is on my car I think its just the stock duratec but I'm not sure if the SVTs are different
Also I will be getting a tune from NPG

Finally, I'm considering doing a 75ish shot of nitrous in the future

Thoughts?
 
no, SVTs do not have different mafs. the point of switching on these cars is if you are runing FI. the maf will max out. Maybe a larger maf will also produce a better reading but not sure on that.
 
so there would be no gain in putting on a larger one. And iirc the 19# injectors are good for up to like 240hp so I shouldn't have to worry about those either correct?
 
well if you want to run nitrous I would install larger injectors.

you can go for a large maf is you want. again looking at nitrous it might be a good idea. otherwise I don't believe there would be a gain with a larger one.
 
With the Nitrous setup I might be getting it injects Nitrous and extra fuel into the intake (which may be the same for most setups.) so would it still be a good idea to put in larger injectors? Basically my goal for this car is to be as powerful as I can get it N/A. The Nitrous is just for fun sometimes. So I dont want to change anything for the nitrous if I don't have to and when I look for gains I want to find them without Nitrous. If I don't have to change the injectors to run Nitrous I don't want to and if an MAF wont show any gains N/A than Ill stay with stock
 
So without thinking about it I bolted on the heads without putting on the motor mount. I read somewhere that you can grind a section out of it and it will fit right in between the heads but it looks like it hits everywhere. Can anybody give me a clue as to where to grind to make it fit? Also is there a reason we flip the 3L pulse wheel instead of just using the 2.5L wheel?
 
So first question does the front crank seal on the timing cover go in from the front or the back of the cover? Also off my UIM whre the vacuum lines plug into I know the red line goes to my fuel rail the green line goes to my EGR but I just noticed a broken yellow one now. Any idea where that goes? I'll take a picture of it if need be but I don't have a camera right now
 
Well I got the Oil seal figured out. Still not sure about the yellow vacuum line. The whole engine is pretty much assembled and now I'm just waiting on my ported UIM from SHO-Source and CPS and the engine will be ready to go
 
ok, you should have 4 things that need vacuum from the intake manifold, but only 3 ports in the little elbow splitter. the 4 things are the FPR (or FPS), EGR solenoid (mounted on the back of the UIM), EVAP purge valve (mounted on the firewall towards the passenger side), and HVAC controls (grey vacuum line that goes down along the firewall). the EGR valve itself gets its feed from the EGR solenoid.
 
So I'm about to put on the headers and put the O2 sensors on and I need to put splice in the MIL's. For my own learning purposes anybody care to tell me how these things work and why we need them. I'm assuming it's because we are losing the cat on the exhaust manifolds when we put on headers but how do these "trick" the computer in thinking nothing has changed?

EDIT: Also, I put the SVT oil cooler on (my car is not an SVT) and the lower/smaller/longer radiator hose that I took off the water pump for the oil cooler line doesn't fit on the end of the cooler hard line (the hoses ID is too big) did SVTs have a different hose? I'll take a picture of what i'm talking about when I get back from work
 
yes the mil-eliminators installed on the down stream O2 sensors make the PCM think that the pre-cats are in place and working correctly. This will prevent those CEL codes.

the cooler should swap right in. I added one to my SE and iirc I just cut and refit the existing hose off the bottom of the waterpump to the oil cooler lines.
 
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