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Pictures please

TUFTOUR

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Dec 6, 2002
Messages
2,908
Location
Harrisburg, PA
Can folks please post pictures of how they mounted their 8" subwoofer in the rear deck? Did some leave the carpet over the hole or cut it out and mount in on top of the deck? I've been searching, but can't find specific pictures...thanks. :)
 
i never put a sub there, but i did cut out a hole in the carpet to help with air transfer from the trunk back when i first got my system. then got a speaker grill that covered the hole and put that over it so there wasn't just a gaping hole glaring at me. sorry, no pics.
 
Thanks...I've even tried checking the old forums, but their not coming up when I click :shrug:

I found one picture of someone who mounted a 10" underneath and left the carpet in place, but I was hoping for some pictures of what it would look like mounted on top...
 
I found one picture of someone who mounted a 10" underneath and left the carpet in place, but I was hoping for some pictures of what it would look like mounted on top...

Same here. All this talk has me curious about sizes and what fits.
 
Can folks please post pictures of how they mounted their 8" subwoofer in the rear deck? Did some leave the carpet over the hole or cut it out and mount in on top of the deck? I've been searching, but can't find specific pictures...thanks. :)

I don't have any pictures but, I mounted mine on top. I left the carpet under the sub to help absorb some of the vibration and to help keep it from rattling the back deck .I cut a hole in the carpet just large enough to fit the sub in and have the mounting screws go through the carpet. I also used sound dampining material on the under side of the back deck . I think blu-fuz has a thread running on 8" sub, had a pic or two.
 
The key is to trace the circle onto the carpet backing from underneith. then remove the rear deck cover and very carefully remove the carpet backing from the circle leaving the carpet in place. It works just like a speaker grille then.
DSC06451.jpg

This was an old picture I found from probably 7 years ago. I always used a sealed box setup mounted to the rear deck and never used free-air.
 
The key is to trace the circle onto the carpet backing from underneith. then remove the rear deck cover and very carefully remove the carpet backing from the circle leaving the carpet in place. It works just like a speaker grille then.
DSC06451.jpg

This was an old picture I found from probably 7 years ago. I always used a sealed box setup mounted to the rear deck and never used free-air.

That's extraordinarily clever. I am contemplating ditching my giiiiant box and doing something like this :shrug:
 
That's extraordinarily clever. I am contemplating ditching my giiiiant box and doing something like this :shrug:

Me too! I could use a new sub in the first place so an efficient 6.5" would be just the ticket if that hole is small enough for it to mount in the deck.
 
A bit of advice to you guys before you invest in a 8" rear deck sub since I have been there done that. You will be very happy with it with the windows up in cold weather, it will fill in the missing lows and as far as taking up space it will be like nothing is there. But when the warmer weather rolls around and you put the windows down the sub will get drowned out by wind/road noise even at 20mph and you will quickly get disapointed.
I started with a 8", then a 10". The 10" I think would be sufficient to most, but after a short while it wasn't enough for an audio fanatic like me so I ditched the rear-deck setup to the current 12" sealed box. which also takes up hardly any space.
 
Thats to be expected though. Wind noise will kill a lot of the highs and mids as well so the quality is gonna stink regardless of the lows.

So is the current hole too big for the 6.5" to drop in and tighten down or is it just right?
 
1)Yes it is too big, I believe the hole is 7 or 7 1/2", but you have 9" of flat mounting space.
2)dont drop it in, (well for one, the hole is too big, but for others thinking about an 8" you wont be able to tighten the rear half of the screws because the rear window will take away any working space from the top.
3)if your set on a 6 1/2" Just make a simple 9" square wooden plate with your 6 1/2" hole cut in it. Mount the speaker to the plate, then just mount the plate to the underside of the rear deck.
4)you can use a plate for 8" as well, but you will have to get out the tin snips to enlarge the hole.
 
So what about mounting the 8" Tang Band from the bottom? Looking at the picture it looks like they put hard foam around the top in case you wanted to do that.
 
So what about mounting the 8" Tang Band from the bottom? Looking at the picture it looks like they put hard foam around the top in case you wanted to do that.
You can do it, you will have to enlarge the hole though, which will be tricky because you would have to take away enough metal for the sorround to clear but leave enough metal for the speaker to mount to. Which is only about 1/2" tolerance. It wouldn't be easy to do. Either that or make a wooden mounting plate/spacer that will prevent the sorround from hitting the metal.
I would use a wooden plate either way, to keep the rear deck metal flexing to a minimum.
 
Yeah I was looking at that earlier and wondering how close it would be. I may just stick with my single box since its angled to go up against the seat and isnt that big in the first place.
 
I just ordered a couple of 8" mdf rings from ebay...I plan to stack them and then mount them underneath the deck and then attach the subwoofer...it should allow enough clearance for the woofer excursion (12mm) without having to enlarge the original hole.

Good idea or dumb?
 
I just ordered a couple of 8" mdf rings from ebay...I plan to stack them and then mount them underneath the deck and then attach the subwoofer...it should allow enough clearance for the woofer excursion (12mm) without having to enlarge the original hole.

Good idea or dumb?

That will work, I'm just wondering how much you spent on a $2 piece of wood from ebay?
 
I figured someone would comment about that :) but for the amount of time it would take for me to buy the wood and cut it into a perfect circle, it was worth the six bucks for the pair...

when I get it done, I'll post some pics so folks can see what it looks like...
 
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