Oil Leakage Issue

[sprindl]

I purchased my 99 SE v6, with 69k back in July. I waited until the vehicle had 80k before changing to synthetic oil. Prior to that change I had no oil leakage. Now I seem to have some. Slight leakage around the pan gasket. Should I have expected this? Outside of pulling the pan and resealing the gasket wat are my options?

-sp

 

[BrApple]

chances are the seal already had a leak, or build up near it that prevented a leak and the sythetic oil cleaned out what ever was stopping it from leaking or it is completely coinsidence.

about the only thing you can do is change the seal.

insidently my 99 also started to leak oil sometime after i swaitch to synthetic oil ... somewhere about 60~70k I believe but it was either the rear valve cover or the front cover at the rear valve cover

 

[sprindl]

And your solution was to change those gaskets?

-sp

 

[BrApple]

And your solution was to change those gaskets?

-sp

yes I ended up repalcing them because I installed SVT cams in my SE so i figured I should anyway. So far so good.

 

[sprindl]

What should I expect to pay for someone to drop the pan and change out that gasket?

-sp

 

[reddired]

i have the same problem. when i purchased my 98 with 111k miles, i went from conventional oil to Valvoline Durablend and noticed that the car leaks oil, but only when I'm driving, not when the car is parked so I imagine that the gasket is going.
I'm curious on the fair pricing to fix that too!!

 

[BrApple]

What should I expect to pay for someone to drop the pan and change out that gasket?

-sp

no clue, its not hard at all, drop the y-pipe and remove the oil pan. all you need is basic hand tools.

 

[Tony2005]

no clue, its not hard at all, drop the y-pipe and remove the oil pan. all you need is basic hand tools.

The only concern one would have is if the bolts or studs for the y-pipe are rusted and can't be removed easily. I would advise getting brand new bolts and studs ready just in case they get stripped out.

 

[jolly8286]

The only concern one would have is if the bolts or studs for the y-pipe are rusted and can't be removed easily. I would advise getting brand new bolts and studs ready just in case they get stripped out.

a good spray for those stubborn bolts, in my opinion would be Kano oil (Aerokroil). we use it at work all the time for stubborn bolts and it really works, spray on and come back fifteen minutes later and it comes right off, unless someone has used loc-tite. just figured i'd give my .02.

 

[BrApple]

yeah Aerokroil is sme great stuff. but the exhaust bolts are normally just to rusted out.

chances are they will break so just get the help exhaust kit for a crysler that has bolts, tapered springs and flanged nuts to reconnect your two bolt cat ...

 

[cliff7080]

From what I read, it is not advised to switch to synthetic oils after 50K. They do have more of a tendency to leak.

Why not just switch back to the standard oil?

 

[98SVTC]

From what I read, it is not advised to switch to synthetic oils after 50K. They do have more of a tendency to leak.

Why not just switch back to the standard oil?

Well, he probably could switch back if he wanted to. The only thing is the length of time he'd have to put up with the leak until the area where the leak is originating gets filled back up with gunk. That might take awhile since the inside of the engine is probably pretty clean at this point. Probably the only thing that could be said is that the leak might not get any worse if he switched back.
Karl

 

[mrutkaus]

You could try gently tightening the pan bolts.

Mike

 

[sprindl]

Not to open a can of oil, but I thought that Synthetic in higher miles engines was a good thing?

-sp

 

[Tony2005]

Not to open a can of oil, but I thought that Synthetic in higher miles engines was a good thing?

-sp

Actually, synthetic in any engine is a good thing. It's just that the CEGer felt the engine had leaks after the synthetic. Switching back is just a way to placate his/her feelings.