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Newly sanded headlights!

dyaballikl

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 9, 2007
Messages
374
Location
Issaquah, WA, USA
Wow, just wow. I just finished this up recently, and I got pics:

This is the passenger side held up to the drivers side, guess which one was done? :)
1807556596_634a01ce57.jpg


The following two were taken at the same time in the same light with the same bulbs in each.
1807556618_aaf2cbeef8.jpg
1807556626_cd8e838380.jpg


I really can hardly believe how much of a difference about an hour of work made. Here's the process I used:
1. Cleaning with Bon Ami glass cleaner
2. Turtle Wax rubbing compound
3. 1000, then 1500, then 2000 grit sand paper
4. Turtle Wax polishing compound
5. Maguier's liquid wax.
To anybody who has clouded lights, you really need to do this, it's so easy, and does such a huge amount for your car. I was even out driving at night before I finished the other, and at one point, I couldn't even see the drivers side light, but could easily see the sanded side!
 
I plan on doing this soon. Just today I picked up a brand new headlight from Steve Tousley, but it makes my other one look horrible. (or even more horrible) I couldn't afford the other side, so I will sand it. Once I can afford the other one, I'm ordering a new one.
 
I plan on doing this soon. Just today I picked up a brand new headlight from Steve Tousley, but it makes my other one look horrible. (or even more horrible) I couldn't afford the other side, so I will sand it. Once I can afford the other one, I'm ordering a new one.

you should've gotten one off a junk yard car and done the same thing on both of them. woulda saved you a lotta money.
 
I'm glad that you did clean your headlights and posted your results. I was just about to replace them because they're so dirty. But if I can clean them the way you did and get results like that, I'll do it.

I do want to make sure that by the steps you posted, sanding them will not scratch the lens. I don't want to scratch the lens.
 
I'm glad that you did clean your headlights and posted your results. I was just about to replace them because they're so dirty. But if I can clean them the way you did and get results like that, I'll do it.

I do want to make sure that by the steps you posted, sanding them will not scratch the lens. I don't want to scratch the lens.

ah... its sandpaper.... it "scratches" off a layer! I take it you haven't worked with wood much have your or body work?
 
You're absolutely correct. I have knowledge and experiences in computer building and repair, but I know nothing about wood or body work.


Sorry didn't mean to sound like a ass or anything but by sanding your simply stripping off a layer of the light.
 
I just did mine. I don't have pics but they went from really yellow and cloudy to clear and sharp.

I used 1000 grit followed by 2000 both wet. I spent about 10 minutes sanding per grit per light. Then finished with Meguiars PlastX lens cleaner and polish for about 5 minutes. I would suggest starting with 600 to get out more of the rock marks. and using a 1500 to save some time.
 
I would highly recommend following that procedure witha couple of layers of clear coat such as Krylon crystal clear or other similar product. That way they won't get damaged by UVs as fast. I did mine a while back and in a short while they were hazy again.
 
I would highly recommend following that procedure witha couple of layers of clear coat such as Krylon crystal clear or other similar product. That way they won't get damaged by UVs as fast. I did mine a while back and in a short while they were hazy again.

I work with a very knowledgeable Plastics Engineer who manufactured automotive lenses for many years, which is where I came up with the information below. I am just a mear Mechanical/Manufacturing Engineer, so my scope of plastics is somewhat limited.

Anywho, for the folks that don't know, most modern headlight lenses are actually a 2-layer unit. The base material is likely a polycarbonate material for impact toughness (i.e.- rocks, road debris, etc) and a thin top coat of acrylic. While PC is tough it is not a UV stable material (i.e.- sunlight will cause much damage). Acrylic on the otherhand is a natural UV blocker and protects the PC.

The 'crap' we see on our lenses is the acrylic layer sacrificing itself. Once you sand the acrylic layer off you should see a good PC lens left behind like in the previous pictures. If you don't protect the raw PC, it will be attacked by the UV rays in sunlight fairly quickly and begin to haze. PC is also fairly sensitive to chemicals as well, which is another reason to protect it from the elements.

While waxing the lens will protect it, it isn't a good long term solution and only offers limited protection. Suggesting the Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Gloss (#1301) is a better protection route. I am sure most acrylic gloss paints should work well, but don't forget about the chemical sensitivity of the polycarbonate material. I would suggest testing a small area/spot on the lens with your acrylic paint of choice to make sure it doesn't react with the PC and ruin your lens. I sold my CSVT before I had to perform a lens refinish, but they were getting to the point where they were going to need it. My wife's '02 Forester is now exhibiting the same acrylic layer breakdown as my former CSVT, so I will get a chance this spring to try out my hand at a lens refinish.
 
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heres some that i did,only i started at a lower grit,600 and worked up to 2000 and then used a highspeed buffer w/a heavy cut wheel platic polish
SANY0473.jpg


SANY0474.jpg


end result:
SANY0496.jpg
 
wow this is good because I just went to pick up headlight cleaner today. Cant wait to get them done. Its snowing here though so I have to wait until it stops
 
Hi
For those that have done the process of clearing up the headlight lens,
is it worth the effort to remove the headlight from the vehicle?
Or can I attempt this process with the lights on the car?
Regards ------
 
Hi
For those that have done the process of clearing up the headlight lens,
is it worth the effort to remove the headlight from the vehicle?
Or can I attempt this process with the lights on the car?
Regards ------

yes, you can do a much more thorough job if you remove it from the car. I did for mine.

wetsanding FTW!
 
Eastwood (anyone heard of them?) has a slightly different procedure. To quote: "Step 1-wet sand with 400 grit paper..., Step 2-wet sand with 800 grit paper..., Step 3-wet sand with 1200 grit paper..., Step 4-polish with their buff wheel, using an electric drill running between 1,800 & 2,200 RPM and Autosol polishing compound. Buffing s/b done in a horizontal motion first moving .25" to .5" up/down each time. Then repeat with vertical passes. Repeat buffing motions until desired results are achieved. Final step is hand buffing to remove any residue."

I've only included the pertinent details. The buffing wheel they refer to is very soft and they do not mention anything about a protective coat (wax or clear). The article is available at the Tech Library at Eastwood.com.
 
Many thanks for all the replies. Looks like I will be taking the headlights
out of the car to do the job. I hope that the headlight alignment doesn't
get thrown off.

How long does this job take? I have a little free time but if it takes
more than 2 evenings I'll be leaving the job until I can get off some
time from work. Besides I can't drive the car around without headlights
for very long.

Headlight alignment is not a big issue here in Georgia, but I can remember
my days in New Jersey when headlight alignment was a condition for
renewal of license tags. I've been gone for some time now. Anybody know
if they still have state-run drive-through inspections?

Brings back memories of when the checked everything, the rolling
brake test, headlight alignment, front end ball joint and steering check,
and complete light/lamp test. Do they still have those tests in NJ?

Regards
Gary- Atlanta...
 
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