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Nasty1's Nitrous Build

nasty1

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 14, 2003
Messages
326
Location
Los Angeles, Ca
I decided its time I get a power adder and after a lots of thought I'm going with nitrous. I want to do something unique with this, and with nitrous it is much easier to do that than going turbo or sc. Also being able to take longer trips with the power adder turned off appeals to me.

I'll try to keep this thread updated as I make decisions / complete work. I think the full build will take 6-12 months depending on finances, and how long it takes me to fabricate some of the custom components.

If you aren't familiar with my car, I have a portmatched 3L currently putting down 191HP/188TQ. The transmission was fully overhauled by Terry Haines and uses the 3.8 FDR and torsen LSD. The clutch is a Spec 3+ unit utilizing the Ford throw out bearing. The engine and transmission have ~6,000 miles on them. Basically I've been ready for a power adder since 2010 and its time to make it happen!

I'm looking to do a wet system delivering a 100HP shot through a progressive controller. My big hurdle at this point is to determine if I want a custom plate developed or go the direct port route. I do think direct port is a bit overkill for a 100 shot, but this approach would let me spray before the secondaries open, and will also remove any pooling concerns. The flip side is the cost. The additional plumbing and manifold work necessary would be ~$300 more than a custom plate, assuming the plate wouldn't require new intake components for fitment sake, which is also an unresolved question.

What I do know is a direct port install would be VERY tight on our platform. Here are the clearance measurements I took between the UIM and the hood (measurements in milimeters):

rRxJ01E.jpg


Basically the front 3 runners that would need to be tapped are the concern. Trying to find nozzles that will fit with the hardlines protruding is going to be very difficult. Someone have a cowl hood they want to get rid of? Ha...

If I don't go the direct port route, I will have a little extra cash to spend and will put that into the bottle install. I've been throwing around the idea of mounting two 5lb bottles in the spare tire well with a custom trunk floor and plexi window showing the setup.

P2FsZd1l.jpg


Curious to get people's thoughts on this. Not sure if its too flashy.

EDIT: Mods please move this to another forum if you feel it doesn't fit in forced induction. The FI FAQ sticky has quite a bit of nitrous information, so I felt this may live best here.
 

svttour

Rico Suave
Joined
Aug 13, 2001
Messages
9,703
Location
MIAMI
There was someone on these boards in 2002 era that did direct port into the uim.. Looked so sick like a spider.
 

nasty1

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 14, 2003
Messages
326
Location
Los Angeles, Ca
There was someone on these boards in 2002 era that did direct port into the uim.. Looked so sick like a spider.

This is what kills me. I know a couple of guys did direct port sometime back. Just seeing a picture of the plumbed intake manifolds they ran would save me so much work. Now if the old UBB threads were functional...
 

BAD SVT

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Dec 19, 2005
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Formerly Las Vegas, now Dallas TX
...Trying to find nozzles that will fit with the hardlines protruding is going to be very difficult. Someone have a cowl hood they want to get rid of? Ha...

Or u can grab a stock hood & make some modifications. I've got a silver spare hood you can have. As for the bottles in the trunk; Flashy? Naaah.
 

jaged

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Oct 18, 2004
Messages
974
Location
NW,Indiana
stangkiller had a direct port uim, then blustreak bought it(i think), and then i think someone else bought it. it cleared a stock cougar hood
 

nasty1

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 14, 2003
Messages
326
Location
Los Angeles, Ca
I'm still coming up dry on the direct port research. I've reached out through PM to quite a few people who used to have or may currently have a direct port UIM. Nada. If I can't find a cowl hood, I'll likely going to have a custom plate made.

While I mull over direct port vs plate, I've decided to direct my attention to the nitrous storage / trunk setup since that is something I can get moving. I decided to go with a single 15lb bottle. Using two 5lb bottles would have added quite a bit of complexity to the system with two heaters and two remote bottle openers. Using a single large bottle means more runs per fill and more $$$ to spend on other components. Here is a mock-up of what I'm going for:
b6wMxxml.jpg


You can see that I now have the top portion coming through the plexi. This will allow for manual opening of the bottle and use of a blow down tube. Not to mention the design accommodates the additional diameter of the 15lb bottle compared to the 5lb bottle.

And now onto some real parts for this! Santa brought me a 15lb Nitrous Outlet with a highflow valve. The valve is rated to flow up to 800HP of nitrous, so its huge overkill here for my build.
fN5Gltf.jpg


I also got a very nice bottle bracket. The bracket has a built in handle and stays attached to the bottle using two pins which also set the bottle angle. This should make the process of removing for fills a bit less painful. The pins do allow for a bit more lateral and up/down movement than I would like. Going to give my guy a call next week to see if this is normal, and what I might be able to do to alleviate the issue. Pretty minor in the grand scheme of things.
lBhHO36.jpg


Here is an off center (due to the spare tire bracket) view of the bottle in the car. It's big but it fits in there just fine.
FQI12Jb.jpg


A view of the bracket from an angle. The bracket isn't as flush to the ground as I was hoping, which threw off my measurements by roughly an inch. Debating whether to modify my design, or simply raise the floor slightly to compensate...
73wORsH.jpg


Getting the bottle/mount is getting me more excited about the build. Can't really turn back now. Planning to update the thread again once I start building the shroud and floor pieces early next year.
 

Beans

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May 4, 2006
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I have that picture somewhere saved of the direct port setup. It is on the old forums somewhere, and on a old computer, i looked for it. I can picture it in my head.

There isn't much info to go with it.
 

crewchiefpro

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Feb 26, 2008
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Citra, FL and Peoria, IL
I would keep it simple first, ask the nitrous companies what works in a factory fuel injection system, they will know.

Direct port is overkill. 100 shot will end up about 80 HP in real terms and you can just use a plate if the injectors can be tuned to add enough fuel.

Is this motor built with Rods and Pistons? If not you will leave parts on the ground quickly with nitrous.
 

nasty1

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 14, 2003
Messages
326
Location
Los Angeles, Ca
I would keep it simple first, ask the nitrous companies what works in a factory fuel injection system, they will know.

Direct port is overkill. 100 shot will end up about 80 HP in real terms and you can just use a plate if the injectors can be tuned to add enough fuel.

Is this motor built with Rods and Pistons? If not you will leave parts on the ground quickly with nitrous.

I don't plan on using the factory fuel system. I'm not a believer in the safety or consistency of dry setups. Assuming a .45 BSFC the stock injectors are getting pushed already. Its actually on my list to do some datalogging and sort that out before I start spraying.

I don't feel direct port is overkill, and I think looking at it as only an efficiency play for our platform doesn't give it full credit. If I went direct port it would alleviate any concerns about pooling at the secondaries, allowing me to start the spray earlier. Not to mention it properly regulates nitrous and fuel to each cylinder. If you go back and read up on tricker's setup, which is the last guy to really push nitrous performance on our platform, he blew his engine on a dyno doing a 125 shot and starting the spray before the secondaries opened. Going direct port would result in a healthier power curve (same peak) with more safety to boot.

My plan is to run a 75 shot to start and go from there. If I go with a plate system, I'll have it jetted for 50-75-100-125, so if I do engine work I can turn it up a bit. This is going to be as safe as you can possibly build it. I'm not going to give away all the details yet, but suffice to say people have reliably sprayed more than I plan to without the depth of build. That said, I am prepared to put in a new engine with forged internals should this one pop - I think you have to be dumb to go the power-adder route and not be prepared to do that.
 

nasty1

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 14, 2003
Messages
326
Location
Los Angeles, Ca
A small amount of progress from this weekend. I debated not posting, but making updates are part of what keep me going on projects like these.

Using the existing trunk carpet I traced the outline of the new trunk floor onto 3/4" MDF. After jigsawing out the pattern then splitting down the middle, I now have a new floor! Here is the right side in place before finishing work:
1hFV0fQl.jpg


Unfortunately when doing the middle cut, I broke off the blade using too much pressure. The left side is marred and not up to my standards, hence not showing it in pictures. I plan on retracing and cutting the left side later this week.

I was hoping to get a bit more done than this, but my bad back/neck limited the amount of time I could work. That and this being my first time using a jigsaw, I wasn't able to be very efficient with what time I did have. Hopefully this time next week I will be able to complete the floor and move on to bottle placement and the window.
 

aboythatskates

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Aug 25, 2010
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spokane wa
from what i can tell those jets are put into the secondary air runners. which seems like a very bad idea unless the butterflies were removed
 
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