no scarring rockers and cam lobes look good.. just that smudgy crud.. it does pick off easily... wondering if just cleaning with some seafoam or something after its put back together would be ok... although i prolly can take the engine back... just it was a pain in the ass to get it here...i shoulda pulled the valve covers while i was there....damnit:nonono:
-
Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.
You can register to join the community.
my very first 3l..
- Thread starter csvtguy
- Start date
RAD Merc SVT
CEG'er
Based on your other thread sorry about your engine. Definitaly get your money back and then see if you can get one from a salvage yard. They will run compression tests and everything and will warranty it (in case something like that happens again) Call J&B auto crusher and they may be able to find one for you.
i just talked to the guy i bought it from and he says the engine runs great it came from a car that he rolled over himself and said he would have not have pulled the engine and tranny if he didnt know they were still good.. but hes supposed to call me back maybe ill try to split the cost
RAD Merc SVT
CEG'er
Well it may run great now and when he pulled it but if that is preventive maintanence thaen it probably won't for long
Here's my last 3L project, this 05 Sable motor had 46K I think. So, you really shouldn't have that sludge.
Here is how I prepare heads for porting.
Head, with nothing in the intake port.
Heavy shop towels stuffed down on top of the valves. Very snug. Heavy shop towels required so that you can later remove them with needlenose and they don't rip apart.
Heavy grease packed on top of the shop towels.
Hard to tell in this photo, but the engine is rotated at least 90* so that many shavings fall out of the port. Even then, plenty stay stuck in the grease. I then rotate the motor completely upside down to remove the grease/metal mixture. I will typically start with a large flat-head screwdriver to scoop out the grease/metal mix. 95% of the shavings are kept in the top 2mm of grease, so scraping that layer out with the screwdriver is what I spend a lot of time doing carefully. Then carefully pull the shop towels out (motor still upside down!). Use your fingers and towels to wipe out all bits of metal remaining (there should be virtually none if you were careful enough taking it out.)
It's also a good idea to polish/clean the gasket surface (if need be) before you clean out the ports.
You may also notice that I have the 3L valve covers and 3L timing cover on. I do this because I do not plan to reuse them. Therefore I am less concerned about them staying 'clean'. Do your porting with all openings plugged, even if they are nowhere near the intake ports. And port with the valve covers and timing cover you plan to discard, not the one's you plan to use in your final product. It may not make a difference as you can clean them of with compressed air, but I don't and have had much success.
Here is how I prepare heads for porting.
Head, with nothing in the intake port.
Heavy shop towels stuffed down on top of the valves. Very snug. Heavy shop towels required so that you can later remove them with needlenose and they don't rip apart.
Heavy grease packed on top of the shop towels.
Hard to tell in this photo, but the engine is rotated at least 90* so that many shavings fall out of the port. Even then, plenty stay stuck in the grease. I then rotate the motor completely upside down to remove the grease/metal mixture. I will typically start with a large flat-head screwdriver to scoop out the grease/metal mix. 95% of the shavings are kept in the top 2mm of grease, so scraping that layer out with the screwdriver is what I spend a lot of time doing carefully. Then carefully pull the shop towels out (motor still upside down!). Use your fingers and towels to wipe out all bits of metal remaining (there should be virtually none if you were careful enough taking it out.)
It's also a good idea to polish/clean the gasket surface (if need be) before you clean out the ports.
You may also notice that I have the 3L valve covers and 3L timing cover on. I do this because I do not plan to reuse them. Therefore I am less concerned about them staying 'clean'. Do your porting with all openings plugged, even if they are nowhere near the intake ports. And port with the valve covers and timing cover you plan to discard, not the one's you plan to use in your final product. It may not make a difference as you can clean them of with compressed air, but I don't and have had much success.
awesome pics shogofast that helps out big time.. so i had a good talk with the dude he said the engine runs good and used quaker state lol WHATEVER but anyways worked out a deal he gives me 150 back making the total engine cost only 250... so now im figuring what the hey... its only my very first 3l thread! lol so im gonna go ahead and break it down some and start cleaning the engine
RAD Merc SVT
CEG'er
If thats the case I strongly recomend getting new rod bearings. You can get just the rod bearings without the mains from rockauto for fairly cheap and if you don't know how to do them I'll come down and do it for you but you'll have to pull the heads.
elraido
I kant speel
Wow, that sludge is horrible. For that price, get some berrymans, clean it up and see what you can do with it. No engine with 40K miles should have that amount of sludge if they ever changed the oil.
RAD Merc SVT
CEG'er
I'm in boulder
yup thats my plan...runs some seafoam berrymans etc maybe some atf in the oil or some eninge flush etc idk ill try a few things... i can turn the crank and hear the pressure release from valves so theres gotta be compression.
Beans
Addicted CEG'er
Engine is near garbage IMO, only way i would consider anything from that, is a complete rebuild.
I agree, I was way down to help him with this build since I live down the street and just did my 3L but i dont know if I want anything to do with that nasty motor, and I can't count how many times I told him to pop the valve cover before he bought a motor.
Ha im just kiddin csvtguy im still down to help you out. But really just think about the money and time you are going to waste if that motor doesn't work? Anyways I will bring my engine stand over and help you with the shift cables once I get some time, work is getting pretty busy this time of year for me.
honestly i think its a mixture of bad oil and then had been sitting for too long. i was able to clean up around the valves some i think we are gonna be ok... eninge was cheap.. just gonna go for it... it really should run.. and im still gonna throw the svt cams in. intake ports look good. i just got it out of my trailer and on a stand today that i picked up on craigs for super cheap gonna take most the •••• off tomo if im still laid off
Beans
Addicted CEG'er
Your going to pay later for using that engine. Probably going to spin a rod bearing and have to start over. but whatever not my car.
Ask autozone or w/e for a belt tell them you don't have A/C
Ask autozone or w/e for a belt tell them you don't have A/C
Its because you are going to use an engine that is basically trash, and then your going to waste some porting plates and prolly damage your svt cams and waste all the fluid your going to put in not to mention the time! If I was you I would take that engine back up to idaho springs and throw it through that guys window because thats about all its good for, then I would finish pulling the blown 2.5, and put the car in your yard until you have the money to make it run right the first time. But im not you, but I have built a 3L and know a good amount about it like everyone else on here that is telling you to not use that motor.
