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my very first 3l..

RAD Merc SVT said:
I just disassembled my 3L down to the short block. Mine is going to take a while because I'm doing some performance stuff while I'm in there and I don't have any money so it's kinda just buy things as I go and when I get paid.
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Thats how mine went. I blew the diff up and figured I would put a 3l in while I was at it. Started off with no money when I pulled the motor and now a year later its running and way more built than I thought it ever would be.
 
so i found a good motor its an 02 with 40k miles for 400 and im way excited if all things work out for me this week gonna pick it up this weekend!!
 
tomo morning i pick up my 3l engine.. i know i know exciting so soon im going to buy the 3 plate kit from hybridaction. umm so i understand people stuff rags into the heads before grinding the ports.. but should i put like some thick wheel grease or something? and then vacuum and clean up real good or just the rags and vacuum them out safe enough?
 
So you're doing a port match like I am. I don't know what others recommend but I'm spending the extra money for the new head gaskets and head bolts because the idea of metal shards anywhere near my engine (even just the airflow part) is a bad idea to me. I guess it will just get pushed out your exhaust but I still don't like it. The fact that I am porting out my whole head influenced it too.
 
csvtguy said:
tomo morning i pick up my 3l engine.. i know i know exciting so soon im going to buy the 3 plate kit from hybridaction. umm so i understand people stuff rags into the heads before grinding the ports.. but should i put like some thick wheel grease or something? and then vacuum and clean up real good or just the rags and vacuum them out safe enough?
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i know some people usually put grease on the rags so the metal shavings stick to it. Also if its on a engine stand people flip the motor upside down as well and pull them out. (the rags)
 
did you get a pricing on the head gasket? this has crossed my mind as well... lets face it nothing sounds safe about grinding heads away and all those tiny lil metal sharps flying all over the place.. thats why oval port sounds appealing but im on a budget so you know
 
ya fug that..... i just got home with my 02 taurus engine.. doesnt look to bad! looks like it may have a leaked a lil around the oil pan.. not a big deal since prolly have to change it out. otherwise everything else looks pretty good... so do i have to use all the 2.5 components? can i use the 3l oil pump water pump etc? im prolly gonna delete the ac for less weight and also the egr i dont like the idea of hot exhaust fumes circulating back into a "cold air" intake setup
 
Haha well aside from the whole research thing that you're supposed to do I'll tell you everything I can remember off the top of my head. We will start from the top down for what you're doing. 2.5 TB, UIM, LIM, fuel rail, injectors, port match plates. If you are using SVT cams use 2.5 timing components, 3L cams 3L timing components. Flip pulse wheel to the other key way, 2.5 timing cover, valve covers, and accesories. I think the water pump can be either. (not to that part yet so not sure) you can use the 3L oil pan, tray, pickup, dipstick and pump. Can use the 2.5 oil pan, and pickup but have to mess with the main studs to get a bolt on for the pickup. Others just switch to the escape pan and pickup. oil pump is the same for all of them. 2.5 wiring harness. um thats all I can think of if I missed something hopefully one of the experts will catch it because I'm doing my first one too I've just done alot of research.
 
csvtguy said:
ya fug that..... i just got home with my 02 taurus engine.. doesnt look to bad! looks like it may have a leaked a lil around the oil pan.. not a big deal since prolly have to change it out. otherwise everything else looks pretty good... so do i have to use all the 2.5 components? can i use the 3l oil pump water pump etc? im prolly gonna delete the ac for less weight and also the egr i dont like the idea of hot exhaust fumes circulating back into a "cold air" intake setup
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Dude I will come show you exactly what you need to do, or read because there are pics and answers all over this site.
 
lol sjon you should roll up sometime soon and gimme another quick walkthrough lol i know we have gone over this a couple times but for some reason im having trouble pullin the tranny cables.. i found the weird little circle button thing but nothing seems to come lose maybe im not workin it hard enough but i just dont wanna break it
 
RAD Merc SVT said:
Well if you're on a budget this is gonna kill you. It's $70 each for the head gaskets and $36 for the head bolts. So like $180 to pull the heads.
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You can get both head gaskets for $59.58 and bolts for $35.74 for a total of $95.32 plus shipping from Rock Auto. I think that's without the discount I forgot to use.
 
ok so i took some pics of underneath the front valve cover. but why cant i add a mother fuggin pic on here!!! makin me nuts for some reason i cant upload pics... but i popped the front valve cover and there are some spots of sludging going on... im no licensed mechanic but that doesnt seem right at 40k miles.. or does it? does it just need a good cleaning? engine has prolly been sitting for some time... can i use this engine or should i take it back?
 
well it would be sweet if you could get some pics up. there shouldn't be "sludge" but maybe old oil pools if it's been sitting forever. Did the yard tell you the compression on it?
 
i bought it from some guy in idaho springs so no reading on compression or anything.. he said the car ran great with good power before he rolled it at 40k.. what am i doing wrong with the pics? i try to upload but doesnt work. maybe i can send to you email? ill do the same with sjon..
 
Well seeing as when I opened mine up it looked like it had barely ever been ran... that doesn't look too good. But they may have ran a cleaner through mine because that is a commmon thing among salvage yards. If you take a rag and it just wipes up like oil then it is probably fine. check for scarring on the rocker arm rollers and cam lobes and you should probably run a comression test
 
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