SoopaCooga
Veteran CEG'er
Well, crap, what's up with that? Bill J sold me "the last one" last month for $85 plus shipping.
BTW, does an Autometer mechanical gauge reach from the dash to the spot where you mounted yours?
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installin a oil pressure gauge
- Thread starter dannimarieiro
- Start date
Well, crap, what's up with that? Bill J sold me "the last one" last month for $85 plus shipping.
BTW, does an Autometer mechanical gauge reach from the dash to the spot where you mounted yours?
Well, crap, what's up with that? Bill J sold me "the last one" last month for $85 plus shipping.
BTW, does an Autometer mechanical gauge reach from the dash to the spot where you mounted yours?
well keep in mind I got mine over a year ago and it was $75 on the site at that time, and the last time checked a few months ago.
as for the mechanical gauge I don't know. iirc todras said one was almost to short to use when he had it installed behind the bumper on the drivers side. so on that note I would ahve to say it most likely will not reach the passanger side of the car.
SoopaCooga
Veteran CEG'er
the web site still advertises it as $75, and says MSRP is $80 which is still less than I was charged.
if it won't reach the filter, i'll have to tap the backside of the block.
SoopaCooga
Veteran CEG'er
I just spoke with Bill. He says the part is no longer available. The pricing of Ford Racing parts on the website simply hasn't been updated yet.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
I bet you thought I forgot!
Alright, keep in mind you can only see so much without me taking the AC pump off... Which I don't plan on doing anytime soon
Bottom view:
Top view:
Side view:
Now this is the plug behind the A/C pump in the block that I used. The reason I used the brake line was I wanted a hard line that I could bend to get out of that crowded area... I snaked it around the dipstick tube and along the underside of the hard coolant line. I strapped the sending unit to the coolant line because that will move with the engine and was in an area with a little wiggle room to work with. There are plenty of other ways to do it I'm sure though
I just got all my parts for the pressure sender and pieced them together. I noticed that you don't even have your sensor from the block connected anymore
- where did you put that? This is what I came up with but the sensor is almost touching the dip stick tube, there is just enough room. If I eliminated the "T" it would be considerably shorter/better but where would the sensor go? I will show an installed pic after I put it on the block.....
Redlineracer12
Addicted CEG'er
Joe are you re using the port from the factory oil pressure switch? I used the plug next to it (just above it iirc), it's just an allen head plug that comes out. As long as it's oil inside, it'll work for your gauge In summary my stock switch and aftermarket sending unit use separate holes in the block.
In summary my stock switch and aftermarket sending unit use separate holes in the block.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
OHHHHHHH, :laugh: - sweet, these brass fittings are expensive :blackeye:. Thanks!
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
What size fitting is that plug? 1/4 or 1/8" NPT? it doesnt really matter to me as i have fittings for both. i just think it would be usefull info for those who are looking at doing this so they can buy the correct fittings.
lucky for me, i have all the necessary fittings between the oil feed line for the turbo, the sender install, and the boost gauge line from my Zetec that i dont need to buy any fittings.
lucky for me, i have all the necessary fittings between the oil feed line for the turbo, the sender install, and the boost gauge line from my Zetec that i dont need to buy any fittings.
fordrule
CEG'er
here are some of mine i used a autometer c2 electric pressure gauge
earls plumping elbows dont fit behind the compressor, so had to swap to a brass fitting one. ended up using none of the earls plumbing
earls plumping elbows dont fit behind the compressor, so had to swap to a brass fitting one. ended up using none of the earls plumbing
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blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
Re-thought my process last night and this is what I actually am doing. The only thing I need to change is to put a 45* off the first fitting from the block so that the line goes up right away instead of out. It just barely touches the AC compressor and I don't want it to wear a hole in the hose.
What are you guys using on the treads to seal these fittings????? Someone told me to just use teflon tape, but I don't trust it.....
I made a bracket for my sending unit using an existing bracket for a light you would install in your house. It looked like this but not cut yet:
I used the hole in the center of the bracket to hold the sending unit and I drilled out one of the slotted holes to fit a water pump bolt through it. So the bracket runs from the WP bolt to the sending unit. I also added a washer around the sending unit to make up some of the space. Looks and works awesome! The zip ties are just to hold the hose for now, I will change that to something else today.
What are you guys using on the treads to seal these fittings????? Someone told me to just use teflon tape, but I don't trust it.....
I made a bracket for my sending unit using an existing bracket for a light you would install in your house. It looked like this but not cut yet:
I used the hole in the center of the bracket to hold the sending unit and I drilled out one of the slotted holes to fit a water pump bolt through it. So the bracket runs from the WP bolt to the sending unit. I also added a washer around the sending unit to make up some of the space. Looks and works awesome! The zip ties are just to hold the hose for now, I will change that to something else today.
you can get high temp telfon liquid to seal it up if you don't want to use the tape. should be able to get some at your local auto parts store.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
Would black high-temp RTV work also?
maybe but I would use something meant for threads.
btw I used tape on my remote oil filter and it you put enough on it will be fine. also I used the liquid on my turbo oil line and that has been fine also.
fordrule
CEG'er
with that npt nipple off the block have u test fitted the ac compressor? i would almost recommend a brass 90 degree fitting to have it aim towards the dipstick. i am thinking about the compressor mating to the block. just a thought
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
I have since put a 45* fitting there and it just clears the ac compressor. I noticed that yesterday and went to get the part today and installed it.
I ended up using a combination of pipe tape and blue medium strength thread lock for all the fittings. I should be good to go. I will let you guys know if they leak :blackeye:
and installed it.I ended up using a combination of pipe tape and blue medium strength thread lock for all the fittings. I should be good to go. I will let you guys know if they leak :blackeye:
I have since put a 45* fitting there and it just clears the ac compressor. I noticed that yesterday and went to get the part today
I ended up using a combination of pipe tape and blue medium strength thread lock for all the fittings. I should be good to go. I will let you guys know if they leak :blackeye:
I don't think that thread lock is going to do anything, you need something like this:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PTX&MfrPartNumber=59214&CategoryCode=2131
I used this on my turbo oil lines and it worked really well.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
This location for the sending unit is a little tight with the cooling fan shroud. It fits, but barely. If I was to do it again, I probably would have routed it all the way to the battery tray area and mounted it there. But it's all good!