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Car is Toast for now, coolant issue

W

WantaSVT

CEG'er
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Messages
92
Location
Atlanta GA/ Georgia Southern University
I took off the big hose that is attached to the bottom of the coolant tank, hel on by a clamp, I drained it from ther because I didnt want to do the full flush I just wanted to get rid of some of the high water content mix, and put full coolant in. I went the little temp sensor to unscrew it and drain the block, first I pulled the lil rubber thing witht the wire attached off the screw, then I decided to just leave that be, It is?was close to date time, so I fill the tank up with collant, and crank the car, not my temp gauge is buried under the red?hot side and its just stting ther, what did I break, is it the lil temp sensor, I really need to know now, I gotta drive back to school tonight, and my othe car is in the bodyshop!!!
 
Where is this temp sensor you are talking about?

Assuming, the Coolant temperature gauge sender is not broken, I suspect (1) There is an air pocket or (2) Water pump impeller broke.

To fix 1), leave reservoir cap loose and add a coolant as necessary for the next 10 or 20 miles of driving.

To fix 2), get a water pump impeller (white plastic or metal) and go at it. For a MTX, it has been posted that it takes less than 30 minutes. The ATX, based on experience takes 2 to 3 hours.

Edit. Look at the picture on this thread. What sensor/sender did you take out?
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=12672&highlight=temperature
 
Last edited:
It was the one under the O in coolant the lil temp sender with tthe one wire, I thought that was were I drain from so I just yanked the rubber cap off and now this happens, on the bright side my coolant light went off, it stays ther(the gauge) it does not revert bck to normal, right now its still sittin on hot
 
WantaSVT said:
It was the one under the O in coolant the lil temp sender with tthe one wire, I thought that was were I drain from so I just yanked the rubber cap off and now this happens, on the bright side my coolant light went off, it stays ther(the gauge) it does not revert bck to normal, right now its still sittin on hot
Click to expand...
Coolant Temperature Gauge sender.

Chances are when you yanked it off, the wires got shorted. Get a hair dryer to blow dry that area and connector. Then check the connector for pins out of alignment. Then plug it back in and see if it will get the gauge back to normal.
 
Disconnect the sender.

Disconnect the sender.

If the sender shorted it will peg the temperature at hot, with engine stone cold. Disconnect sender till replaced. Mine was like that after the waterpump failed. If you were not experiencing overheating, you probably just broke it when you pulled off the connector.
 
That is what happened, I went to pepboys and got a new one (23 bucks) popped it in(while makin my hand extra crispy, hot down ther!!) Now it reads, but usually at the L on normal, hotter that my car has ever been, I guees it needs calibrating or something, you guys know how?
 
WantaSVT said:
That is what happened, I went to pepboys and got a new one (23 bucks) popped it in(while makin my hand extra crispy, hot down ther!!) Now it reads, but usually at the L on normal, hotter that my car has ever been, I guees it needs calibrating or something, you guys know how?
Click to expand...
First make sure your wp impeller is not broken or your thermostat is not stuck on closed, or radiator is not clogged up. (there was a reason why you drained and flushed the cooling system).

There is a chance that the aftermarket gauge senders are not accurate.
 
WantaSVT said:
..., if the pump was brokem ...., and wouldn't i hear noise?
Click to expand...
No.

First of all, it might be too soft for you to hear the rattling. Secondly, it might just be cracked enough to be spinning on its axle and not turning the impeller (or spinning for a while and then stopping and spinning again).
 
Pick up a Motorcraft SW5046 Ford F5RZ-10884-B 1 pin sender, see if your gauge reads normally, usually not exceeding the M on the gauge. Sometimes you will get a higher reading if the car "heat soaked", like if you park it and go in the store, and restart.

Also: This CEG topic is like your problem Temperature His car ran hot after new aftermarket sender.

You may need a new waterpump if the gauge still reads high. Do the radiator fans operate when the A/C is switched on?
 
The only way to check waterpump easily is see if heater is scorching hot (being summer). If it is, it's pumping. Replace sender. Otherwise you have to pull it, might as well install new one. I used a Delco metal impeller, I believe Autozone has one like it, or use a white impeller. Avoid black impellers.
 
Weeeeelll my heat dont even work, have no idea why, so I guess im pullin, Like o said I sure its the sender though, car has 100000 miles when I bought it, and the temp only got to M when sitting still, It hovered on N-O when moving, how much is the pump
 
If you don't have heat then the water pump impeller is toast. You know that you have to have the coolant over the max line on a Contour to not have the light come on right? Stop driving the car!!!!!!!
 
REally, No heat = toasted impellar? I didnt know that, So I can go get my pump and ill be fine right? And the car never, got over m on the gauge, if it werent pumping, would the car not overheat? and yes it above max, not the prober 50/50 though, prob like 70/30h20
 
Because when your A/C is set to heat, coolant is pushed through the heater core and warms up the air going through your vents, I believe. With no WP, that coolant isn't going to be pushed through the Heater core, and thus no hot air.

Just get a white plastic pump or metal one and replace. Theres a how-to for it somewhere, just search.
 
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