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Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines

H

Heywood

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
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For anyone upgrading to braided lines, be sure to check whether you have the right fitting on them for the rear connection to the hard line.
On my 2000 the hard line had a female connector.
SVT Kid said that he also had this issue on his 2000, but it wasn't like that on any of his other SVTs.
If you have the female hard line connector you will need to get an M10 x 1.0 mm male to male brass coupler to make the connection and these aren't readily available in autopart or hardware stores.
Don't get caught like I did. :blackeye:
 
Yeah, I've been meaning to check mine but I keep forgetting. I've had my lines sitting around for a couple months now. I'd hate to find out it was the wrong setup when it comes time to install.
 
hotdimmes said:
which lines did you get? The DOT approved goodridge ones or the other ones?
Click to expand...
I got the Goodrich ones, but I think this would apply to any kit as it seems like most cars had the standard male connector on the end of the hard line.
 
the brand of lines doesnt matter in this case. from my incident, and now SVTC1136's incident, i have come to believe that for some reason ford switched the hard lines on late 2000 production models.. i used aeroquip ss lines that i took off of my other early production 2000 csvt when i put wilwoods on it, and figured that they would fit on mine the same. well, when i tried the fittings were different on the hard lines. i was like WTF!! i checked my 2000, my 99, and even the 98 bondurant car and all had the male adapters on the lines.. i think its just a switch ford made in the middle of the production, for whatever reason. doesnt really surprise me, fords done that before..
 
slightly off topic but does anyone have a braided ss line install guide. I know it seems obvious but I always get confused as to what to flush first and whatnot.
 
Look at the how-to's on the main page for the bleeding sequence, theres one for bleeding the brakes "pedal pumping style" :D
Changing the lines is really that easy. My only tip - soak all the connections with wd40 for as long as you can to make sure you don't break anything.
 
I don't know what prod number yours is SVTkid, but I had no problems installing my brake lines and my car is #1321, later than SVTC1136's (though I guess only two days later).
 
SVTC1136 said:
Look at the how-to's on the main page for the bleeding sequence, theres one for bleeding the brakes "pedal pumping style" :D
Changing the lines is really that easy. My only tip - soak all the connections with wd40 for as long as you can to make sure you don't break anything.
Click to expand...

But when do you actually swap out the line? Before flushing? After? :shrug:
 
hotdimmes said:
But when do you actually swap out the line? Before flushing? After? :shrug:
Click to expand...
You have to bleed the brakes after you disconnect the line in order to fill up the new piece of line and get all the air bubbles out.
All you do is disconnect the old line and replace with the new one. Make sure you remove the spring plate holding the connection in place before you actually undo the line or you'll end up with brake fluid everywhere, you'll know what I mean if you take a look at the junction between the soft line and the hard line).

Step by step:
1. Soak both ends of line with WD40
2. Loosen both ends a 1/4 turn or so (just to make sure you can undo them)
3. Remove spring plate from soft/hard line junction
4. Undo hard/soft line connection
5. Remove line from caliper
6. Install new line on caliper and fully tighten
7. Connect new line to hard line (make sure you route it correctly)
8. Install new spring plate
9. Tighten all connections (best to double check)
10. Repeat for each corner
11. Bleed brakes (DF, PR, DR, PF for ABS cars) and check for leaks
[D = drivers side, P = passenger side]

I think you can bleed the lines as you go if you replace the lines following the bleeding sequence. I had all 4 wheels off, so I did it once I was finished so that I didn't have to keep asking someone to come and help me.
 
Last edited:
Redlineracer12 said:
I don't know what prod number yours is SVTkid, but I had no problems installing my brake lines and my car is #1321, later than SVTC1136's (though I guess only two days later).
Click to expand...


haha, idk. the later production cars having different parts was just my theory for why only some people are having problems. who knows, maybe they used different hard lines at different plants:shrug: . no idea.. btw, the prod number on mine is #2140 of 2150 made..
 
SVTC1136 said:
You have to bleed the brakes after you disconnect the line in order to fill up the new piece of line and get all the air bubbles out.
All you do is disconnect the old line and replace with the new one. Make sure you remove the spring plate holding the connection in place before you actually undo the line or you'll end up with brake fluid everywhere, you'll know what I mean if you take a look at the junction between the soft line and the hard line).

Step by step:
1. Soak both ends of line with WD40
2. Loosen both ends a 1/4 turn or so (just to make sure you can undo them)
3. Remove spring plate from soft/hard line junction
4. Undo hard/soft line connection
5. Remove line from caliper
6. Install new line on caliper and fully tighten
7. Connect new line to hard line (make sure you route it correctly)
8. Install new spring plate
9. Tighten all connections (best to double check)
10. Repeat for each corner
11. Bleed brakes (DF, PR, DR, PF for ABS cars) and check for leaks
[D = drivers side, P = passenger side]

I think you can bleed the lines as you go if you replace the lines following the bleeding sequence. I had all 4 wheels off, so I did it once I was finished so that I didn't have to keep asking someone to come and help me.
Click to expand...

Ah spring plate! That's what I didn't know about. I was like...wtf how do you do this without getting fluid everywhere! Thanks!
 
tomato, tomatoe, whatever you want to call it. Metal clip/plate/spring that holds the end of the soft line in place.
 
Do these lines even make that much of a pedal feel diff?

If the standard pressure is at 60%. How much better can the lines add to the brake system? 5,7,10,15,20%??
 
Yes, a braided line will stiffen up the pedal feel noticeably. The PO of my car did the fronts only because of the rear adapter issue so its already semi-stiff.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
I don't know what prod number yours is SVTkid, but I had no problems installing my brake lines and my car is #1321, later than SVTC1136's (though I guess only two days later).
Click to expand...

It really doesn't matter the exact date, nothing csan really be said something was one way on this date, then on the next day it was this. Parts for vehicles are made one way til the order by the customer changes, then it gets changed over as soon as possible. The new part, and the old part still make it to assembly, and not particularily in the correct order.
 
i just want to make sure i have the correct rear lines.

i have never changed my lines so I'm going to say this is a female hard line.

P1010138.jpg

P1010137.jpg

P1010139.jpg


and I'm guessing the longer end of the new lines goes into the caliper.
 
Actually from that picture it looks like the longer end goes into the fender fitting and then gets held in place by the clip.
 
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