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Bov not making full "noise"

Thats is precisely why I got rid of my RFL, damn thing would stall all the time because it would leak so bad. Now it is worth noting that my RFL was used for awhile before I got it.

Brian, you will probably be able to fix yours with additional washers as your unit is pretty new. You should be able to open it with your fingers at idle but still should require a bit of force to do so. And, there definately should not be a vac leak at idle thru the BOV.

I do agree with Stazi in that it should not have mysteriously died. They are a pretty simple device. You could check the routing of the vac line that is attached to top to make sure it isn't kinked anywhere.

The fluttering sound you described... I have read that can be compressor surge due to excess pressure not being vented and and can shorten the life of the turbo.
 
Thats is precisely why I got rid of my RFL, damn thing would stall all the time because it would leak so bad. Now it is worth noting that my RFL was used for awhile before I got it.

Brian, you will probably be able to fix yours with additional washers as your unit is pretty new. You should be able to open it with your fingers at idle but still should require a bit of force to do so. And, there definately should not be a vac leak at idle thru the BOV.

I do agree with Stazi in that it should not have mysteriously died. They are a pretty simple device. You could check the routing of the vac line that is attached to top to make sure it isn't kinked anywhere.

The fluttering sound you described... I have read that can be compressor surge due to excess pressure not being vented and and can shorten the life of the turbo.

Exactly and this car isnt going to be driven till the bov situation is handled, this is my baby and I will not do anything to mess with it at all till I know its good to go.
 
Brian, you will probably be able to fix yours with additional washers as your unit is pretty new. You should be able to open it with your fingers at idle but still should require a bit of force to do so. And, there definately should not be a vac leak at idle thru the BOV.


yeah as far as I can tell it doesn't leak at idle. but i couldn't really tell last night as the fans where running at the time so I thought that it was but it really wasn't.

other then that it tends to idle alittle high but i believe that is because the maf is reading well at idle. I unplugged it last night at idle and it came right down. however it wasn't happy when I reved it up. I need to cut back the intake tube leading to the maf as its to long and the outlet sit almost inside the maf ...
 
Brian, you will probably be able to fix yours with additional washers as your unit is pretty new. You should be able to open it with your fingers at idle but still should require a bit of force to do so. And, there definately should not be a vac leak at idle thru the BOV.

yeah as far as I can tell it doesn't leak at idle. but i couldn't really tell last night as the fans where running at the time so I thought that it was but it really wasn't.

other then that it tends to idle alittle high but i believe that is because the maf is reading well at idle. I unplugged it last night at idle and it came right down. however it wasn't happy when I reved it up. I need to cut back the intake tube leading to the maf as its to long and the outlet sit almost inside the maf ...


well I check again last night. the bov is drawing in air at idle. I put my hand over the horn and I could feel the vacuum pulling against my hand ... wonder if this is why the car was leaning out at idle. This is also after adding 2 more washers for a total of 5. I don't know if it was doing it before but if it is doing it with 5 washers then it must have at 3.

other then that I noticed that it use to partly open when driving easy and shifting around 4k rpm. now it doesn't do that. It nice and sharp sounding under boost when it opens. Although I did notice once that when it openned under part boost that it had a flutter sounds to it ....

oh yeah, it was idling much better also last night. it wasn't hangin as high as it has been.
 
Sounds like that thing is letting in unmetered air. That would definately contribute to lean conditions and difficult idle. If I had more spares I would send you one to use as well. Warmonger was able to nail my tune down in like two tries after we got the leaky BOV issue addressed. (after a complete top end rebuild cause i thought my vac leak was up there.)

I was pretty impressed with the synapse BOVs. Might be worth looking at. They can be equipped with an anit-stall valve specifically designed to vent to atmosphere on a MAF vehicle.
 
Well I will use yours for now Adam and then research what will be best for my application and go from there.
 
well does anyone know of a better bov that will fit the turbo xs adaptor so I don't have to get a new one welded in? or a way to make it seal better?
 
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Adam I got the bov today, and after removing the rfl and playing with it since the bov you sent wouldnt fit on the flange, the rfl is working. It needed to be oiled and there were washers in the back, I thought they were in the front. I should have checked it first but I am a newbie still to the f/i world so I chalk this up as a learning experiance. So now the rfl is back on and working perfectly and not leaking at all. I will ship the bov back to you monday morning before work, thanks again for shipping that to me anyways.

And vader is fixed, took 7 hours to replace the a/c compressor clutch but its done.
 
So yours is then, try removing it and spread some oil over the actuator and re-install it, thats what it took for mine.
 
I dont have any washers now and it sealed, with the washers in it wasnt working or sealing. But that may have been cause of the larger fmic.
 
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