Best mods for MPG w/out losing too much "fun"?

[BrApple]

Run regular unleaded gasoline Not super unleaded or gasoline blended with ethanol

lol, that would be nice .... all gas in CT has ethanol. pretty much every state over this way does too.

 

[KennyT772]

My mileage with 87 is 18/25, mileage with 92 is 21/31. This was done with the pcm wiped before driving 3 tanks of fuel (1 city 2 highway).
The more power and torque you can make from a set volume of fuel, the better your mileage. Keep in mind that we aren't talking about more max power, but more low end. This is where the stock plenum helps as it smooths out air velocity into the throttle body. You also want a semi restrictive exhaust (read quiet) to keep your low to mid torque band. CAI is a good thing, just be careful about going overboard and hydrolock your motor from a rainstorm. The route I have been toying with is using piping from the bumper up to the stock airbox and plugging the fender hole. Low mounted filters are just asking for trouble.

 

[FIND]

lol, that would be nice .... all gas in CT has ethanol. pretty much every state over this way does too.

Yeah, it gets pretty hard now days to find non-ethanol gasoline.

blah blah blah, a bunch of wrong

Ok, if you say so. You are OBVIOUSLY the expert. Because I dont feel like getting into an argument today or turning this into a pissing match, I am not going to respond to each of the issues you raised. Instead I encourage you to do some more research, and visit some hypermiling forums.

I will tell you this, whatever LED study you are talking about..... yeah, total falsehoods. LEDs draw less power, which means less load on your battery, which means your alternator cycles on less, which means less parasitic loss on your drivetrain. No it is not much, but it all adds up. As far as LEDs not being bright enough to use...... Nearly every truck on the road uses LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs because of the energy savings and long life. My explorer has all LEDs. I could put an incandescent bulb on one of my blinkers and you wouldnt be able to tell the difference between the two except in comparing the amount of time the light takes to come on.

but yeah, I guess you are right. the few things I have done with my truck so far have only netted me 6 mpg over EPA estimates, and 10-12 over what the average owner experiences. I mean, yeah it would make much more sense just to get rid of a vehicle and replace it with an 81 honda or something like that. And it isnt like Ford built in a little thermostatically controlled flap in the intake on my explorer to switch between engine air and outside air for emissions purposes in cold weather or cold starting, AND it isnt like my 93 bonneville with a 3800 gets 30 mpg stock and circulates coolant through the throttle body to warm the intake air......

Actually, I got a better tip for you to get higher fuel mileage without having to buy a stripped down tiny econo-box. GO DIESEL.

My mileage with 87 is 18/25, mileage with 92 is 21/31. This was done with the pcm wiped before driving 3 tanks of fuel (1 city 2 highway).
The more power and torque you can make from a set volume of fuel, the better your mileage. Keep in mind that we aren't talking about more max power, but more low end. This is where the stock plenum helps as it smooths out air velocity into the throttle body. You also want a semi restrictive exhaust (read quiet) to keep your low to mid torque band. CAI is a good thing, just be careful about going overboard and hydrolock your motor from a rainstorm. The route I have been toying with is using piping from the bumper up to the stock airbox and plugging the fender hole. Low mounted filters are just asking for trouble.

once again, not going to fully respond to that, because it is full of old wives tales. I would suggest the difference is more than likely your driving habits between those tests, 3 tanks arent really enough to get conclusive data anyways. Plus, it really makes no sense, since your car doesnt know the difference between 87 and 92 octane, and your car is tuned from the factory to run 87 octane or possibly slightly lower octane fuel.

Octane is resistance to detonation. NOT HORSEPOWER. Also, restrictive exhaust doesnt make power in any part of your power band, not even semi restrictive. Over sized exhaust can cause you to lose low range torque though..... so that might be where you were confused, or I misinterpereted what you were trying to say. My v6 contour got up to 32 mpg with headers, free flowing y-pipe with a high flow cat, and fairly unrestrictive exhaust on a performance tune with 92 octane....... Then again, the performance tune was programmed to take advantage of the extra octane with more aggressive ignition timing, but I had by no stretch of the imagination a quite semi-restrictive exhaust.

 

[KennyT772]

The gains aren't from the Engine knowing the difference between fuels, the engine simply runs better, knocks less and therefore retards timing less. Also, by semi restrictive I said read as quiet. To make low end torque you need to keep sufficient exhaust velocity. Running a 2.5in exhaust and a very wimpy muffler is not going to be nice to your torque curve.

 

[FIND]

Your engine should NOT be knocking under normal circumstances when it is well maintained and running good gas of at least 87 octane. Remember, your engine is detuned from the factory just so it can handle a variety of conditions, bad gas, altitude, humidity, and other variables, while running well the whole time. Engine knock is very bad for the life of your engine, so generally a manufacturer doesnt want to rely on a knock sensor to detune the engine on the fly.....

But yeah, I get what you mean, it is like I said, don't run an over sized exhaust that will end up generating more turbulence and defeating the scavenging effect of a properly designed exhaust system, we were saying the same things, just in different ways, miscommunication....

 

[KennyT772]

The zetec is well known to have a touchy knock sensor, this is why so many idiots recommend unplugging the knock sensor "it'll give you 10hp and 3mph dawg!1!11". I've ran into three of these guys at autocrosses, two in escorts and one in a focus. Try a couple tanks of 92 and you may be surprised at the results.

I would suggest the difference is more than likely your driving habits between those tests, 3 tanks arent really enough to get conclusive data anyways.

Also, this is the most direct comparison I have done, driving one tank around of each while I'm in Muskegon, and then calculating out the mileage from Houghton to Muskegon on one and Muskegon to Houghton on the other. Doing each run with the exact same weight and on cruise is the closest I can get.

 

[L00fah]

If one more person tells me to adjust my driving habits, I will kill a kitten. I don't want whatever you think "good mileage" is. I just want to increase the mileage of my car. I've already said in my first post that I'm not able to just wander on the street and buy cars. I'm pretty sure I have a disclaimer that says DO NOT say "go buy a [enter fuel efficient •••• here]."

Anyhow... To summarize decisions:
1. I will NOT get any new form of intake.
2. I'm going to get UDP, exhaust, and I will remap the fuel route, or whatever the hell it was.
3. I'm NOT buying a new car, I cannot afford it and I won't be able for maybe two or three years.
4. You all can stop arguing, you're just making each other look like fools...
5. Even I know higher octane fuels do not effect mileage... I could link you to more than a hundred sources that prove it.
6. I'm serious about killing the kitten, don't say it again.

Thanks everyone, I would kind of like this thread closed now to prevent any future issues.

 

[Smokinjoe]

L00fa,

Maybe you should adjust your driving habits. :laugh:

 

[KennyT772]

All I'm saying is try a couple tanks. You might see a difference you might not. I saw a decent difference.

 

[cetroutt]

I've gotta disagree with the above. Coolant is circulated through throttle bodies to prevent icing on cold days.
By having hot incoming air, you are causing the engine to run LESS efficiently. The air is less dense so the computer puts in less fuel and runs less ignition timing. It may improve your mileage to a point. When the intake air is extremely hot, your PCM will dump in MORE fuel to prevent detonation. Also, because the engine isn't running at peak efficiency, you are increasing your emissions greatly.
Cold air lets your engine advance your timing to burn the fuel completely. Because of the advanced timing, you make more power.
Lower your pumping losses by having the throttle plate open an extra 0.005 degrees? I've gotta call bullcrap on that one too.
I also must disagree with your point about not running a higher grade of gas. I get better mileage in my Zetec Contour when NOT running 87 octane. Why? My engine detonates less so it runs more timing and runs more efficiently.
I must also see this study where LEDs have caused a MEASURABLE decrease in fuel economy. LEDs still do not have a high enough lumen/watt ratio to justify the cost over replacing a high-wattage incandescent lamp.
The bottom line is that if you want REALLY good fuel economy, sell your Contour and buy a Festiva.
BP

thank you for saying this it saved me some typing.

lol, that would be nice .... all gas in CT has ethanol. pretty much every state over this way does too.

it's impossible to find here in MO, it's state law that all gas have al least a 15% ethanol mix, and for some reason i was thinking it was federal law is that all gas have some mix of ethanol? i could be wrong.

Ok, if you say so. You are OBVIOUSLY the expert. Because I dont feel like getting into an argument today or turning this into a pissing match, I am not going to respond to each of the issues you raised. Instead I encourage you to do some more research, and visit some hypermiling forums.
I will tell you this, whatever LED study you are talking about..... yeah, total falsehoods. LEDs draw less power, which means less load on your battery, which means your alternator cycles on less, which means less parasitic loss on your drivetrain. No it is not much, but it all adds up. As far as LEDs not being bright enough to use...... Nearly every truck on the road uses LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs because of the energy savings and long life. My explorer has all LEDs. I could put an incandescent bulb on one of my blinkers and you wouldnt be able to tell the difference between the two except in comparing the amount of time the light takes to come on.
but yeah, I guess you are right. the few things I have done with my truck so far have only netted me 6 mpg over EPA estimates, and 10-12 over what the average owner experiences. I mean, yeah it would make much more sense just to get rid of a vehicle and replace it with an 81 honda or something like that. And it isnt like Ford built in a little thermostatically controlled flap in the intake on my explorer to switch between engine air and outside air for emissions purposes in cold weather or cold starting, AND it isnt like my 93 bonneville with a 3800 gets 30 mpg stock and circulates coolant through the throttle body to warm the intake air......
Actually, I got a better tip for you to get higher fuel mileage without having to buy a stripped down tiny econo-box. GO DIESEL.
once again, not going to fully respond to that, because it is full of old wives tales. I would suggest the difference is more than likely your driving habits between those tests, 3 tanks arent really enough to get conclusive data anyways. Plus, it really makes no sense, since your car doesnt know the difference between 87 and 92 octane, and your car is tuned from the factory to run 87 octane or possibly slightly lower octane fuel.

1, just your comment about starting a pissing match will make it one.
2, i feel there is a HUGE difference in trying to get better gas mileage (which i think is what the OP is wanting) and drivning like a moron to achieve "hypermileage"
3, last i checked so long as the engine is running and the alternator turning it is on, they don't cycle on and off, it's not the A/C comp. and the alternator is what powers everything while the engine is running, not the battery, also putting LED's in isn't going to make a significant difference in mileage. it's not like people drive around all day with the turn signal on.
4, 30 mpg in your bonnie isn't unheard of, i know a number of bonnie owners that get similar mileage because they mantain the car, crap i used to get 33 mpg in my 92 sable with the 3.0 vulcan. which brings me to kenny

All I'm saying is try a couple tanks. You might see a difference you might not. I saw a decent difference.

i agree. i drove my 92 sable for about two years on 87 octane, 20 miles to and 20 miles from work on a hilly state highway and got at best 28 mpg. one day the station where i always bought all of my fuel was out of 87 so i swaped to 89 and noticed an increase to 32 mpg, i sat down and figured the math and saw that by spending 10 cents a gallon more i actually saved money. this was when gas was nearing 4 bucks around here. so i filled up with 89 octane again, once more i saw 32 mpg. from there on out i used 89 octane. and when i took out the air horn thing in the fender well it bumped up to 33 mpg and that is what i got until i sold the car a year and half later. my driving did not change because i am a cruise control driving fool. put to 60MPH and cruise is on. so all of the up and down shifts are the same, the car did it all. i've tried the same with my contour and didn't notice the same gains as the sable but they're there.

to the OP, yes the way you drive will impact your MPG's, am i saying change the way you drive, crap no, drive like you want, however a good running engine, well mantained car and a few add on's to bump the already small number of horses and low torque the zetec has will also impact it. so do a full tune up, change all the filters and fluids, plugs, wires yadda yadda, a can of injector cleaner every 4-5 tanks isn't going to hurt and check the tire preasure whenever you fill up it will go along ways.

 

[zorrex]

Ok, if you say so. You are OBVIOUSLY the expert. Because I dont feel like getting into an argument today or turning this into a pissing match, I am not going to respond to each of the issues you raised. Instead I encourage you to do some more research, and visit some hypermiling forums.

I'm pretty sure BP knows what he's talking about...........

 

[KennyT772]

Keep in mind though, that with all of these suggestions, figure out how long the pay off period for each mod will be. Spending $100 on this or that will take so long to pay back you are better off just leaving it as is.

 

[zorrex]

True. Wanna know the BEST MPG you can get? A bicycle. Well, neglecting extra time and sweat costs, that is.

 

[FIND]

1, just your comment about starting a pissing match will make it one.
2, i feel there is a HUGE difference in trying to get better gas mileage (which i think is what the OP is wanting) and drivning like a moron to achieve "hypermileage"
3, last i checked so long as the engine is running and the alternator turning it is on, they don't cycle on and off, it's not the A/C comp. and the alternator is what powers everything while the engine is running, not the battery, also putting LED's in isn't going to make a significant difference in mileage. it's not like people drive around all day with the turn signal on.
4, 30 mpg in your bonnie isn't unheard of, i know a number of bonnie owners that get similar mileage because they mantain the car, crap i used to get 33 mpg in my 92 sable with the 3.0 vulcan. which brings me to kenny

1: No, you coming in here and starting a pissing match would do so..... I said I wasnt going to argue that stuff and that he should look into this stuff because he will find that I was correct.

2: Don't drive like a moron hypermiler, some of their techniques are useful in daily driving. you DONT need to mash the gas to leave a stop light, and you dont need to wait till you are 5 feet away to slam on your brakes.

3: Yes, the alternator turns full time, however the coil is only energized when the battery is drawing a load. The coil cycles on and off, that is the function of the regulator. it has to cycle the coil on and off even to keep the voltage regular. Listen to your car running sometime when there is a load on your battery, you will hear what I am talking about. When the coil is energized, there is MORE drag on the alternator. LEDs draw less power. You save power using them on running lights.

4: Of course 30 mpg isnt rare for a bonneville. THAT IS WHAT THEY GET FROM THE FACTORY. I was saying, that is what the car gets, I wasnt saying that is the most the car can get......

Anyways, I am done with this argument. If you guys want to believe that octane is going to increase your gas mileage on a factory tune for a car that is tuned for regular unleaded gas, or if you want to believe that Cold air makes more gas mileage, or if you want to believe that your alternator in your contour is putting out a constant 130 amps of DC current that magically disappears if you dont use it, then that is fine. You can believe whatever you want. I shared things I have learned over time, things I have tested and researched. Not like I am claiming that an LED is going to decrease your fuel mileage somehow magically like some people...... Anyways, think what you want, it isn't my money, and honestly, I am not really benefiting in any way by sharing with you guys, so..... enjoy thinking whatever you want.

I'm pretty sure BP knows what he's talking about...........

I give you the following exhibits since it is quickest to point out the errors in these two lines of thinking.

I've gotta disagree with the above. Coolant is circulated through throttle bodies to prevent icing on cold days. Not for emissions. If hotter air really helped emissions, you'd see heat exchangers on cars to pre-heat the incoming air.

....

I must also see this study where LEDs have caused a MEASURABLE decrease in fuel economy. LEDs still do not have a high enough lumen/watt ratio to justify the cost over replacing a high-wattage incandescent lamp.

1: If you needed coolant to prevent icing, then why doesn't every car use them? (weird, same argument he was using against my point huh. Strange how things can get turned around on you) The fact is it is easier to tune fuel curves timing and advance on a vehicle when you are dealing with less variation in air temperature. Now when driving a bonneville in -20 weather, the engineers dont have to program a fuel and ignition curve to deal with that super cold dense air, instead the temperature raises to a more workable level. Don't take my word for it though, ask GM. Or ask ford why they put the flaps in say an explorer or ranger to switch between outside air and engine air that is thermostatically controlled based upon intake air temperature. Ask mazda what is the deal with the coolant they circulate through the intake on the KL series engines. It is a simple solution to the problem of dealing with programming for emissions and whatnot.

2: Must see this study? Really..... Pick up any trucking magazine. Look at the HUGE number of lights on trucks that are replaced with LEDs. This is not just done for long life and vibration resistance, this is done so there is a reduced electrical load. I dont know why I should spend all my time trying to prove something to you guys that the trucking community has known for more than 10 years.

Like I said, I am not getting hurt by you guys thinking otherwise...... It is your money, I gave some advice, you want to spit on it, so waste your money.

True. Wanna know the BEST MPG you can get? A bicycle. Well, neglecting extra time and sweat costs, that is.

I love my bicycle

 

[L00fah]

Keep in mind though, that with all of these suggestions, figure out how long the pay off period for each mod will be. Spending $100 on this or that will take so long to pay back you are better off just leaving it as is.

Your math must be off. It would take less than half a year to pay off $100 bucks. That isn't long. Especially considering how much I drive.

L00fa,

Maybe you should adjust your driving habits. :laugh:

Congrats... You killed a kitten, I hope you're happy.

Monster.

And can you ladies please put your skirts back down and stop your cat fight? Your making the rest of us look bad.

 

[KennyT772]

All depends on the gain in mileage and how much you drive, I should have said 'may take long enough to not be worth it'.

Not to join the pissing match but FIND does have a valid point. LED's by themselves draw less power. However, our cars have 4 running lights (blinkers + tails) and headlights at night. Switching those to LEDs is the same difference as having the blower on off vs lowest setting.

Also most aftermarket leds are for brightness not for efficiency. Installing a set in a friends grandprix actually drew more power than the original bulbs.

Has anyone made an underbody tray for a contour?

 

[L00fah]

Well if I gained 3 miles, 33 miles to my total tank (I believe. I think my tank is about 11) and that makes a pretty decent gain. i'd have to stop at the station maybe half as much as I usually do, as I could push my tank a little further than normal. So rather than 1-2 times a week, I'd go 0-1, so let's say every other week. I spend about $25-30 on my tank when I typically refill. Assuming I pay $25 every other week, that's $650 annually. Which, to keep in mind, is lower estimate.
So the most it would ever take is a year. And that really a long time to pay something off.

and 33 miles is actually just enough to allow me to bring my car half as often as I do.

 

[BrApple]

tank should be between 13 and 15 gallons. not all of it is usable iirc.

so lets see, with some real numbers.

my 95 zetec 5-spd has been averaging 25.94 mpg

that is 13,542 miles per year
530.8 gal of fuel per year
for $1,263.68 per year

for fuel
$3.46 per day
$0.092 per mile
$2.381 per gal
314.2 mile per fill


and for reference my SVT
$3.76 per day
$0.145 per day
average 24.26 mpg
9,292 miles per year

and my turbo 3L
#3.61 per day
$0.187 per mile
average 16.52 mpg
4,563 miles per year

 

[ButtonPuncher]

@FIND :nonono:

I love how you quoted me then changed my words.

It's obvious that you won't listen to facts or real data. I not going to waste my time arguing with you. It's pointless.

<sarcasm> You're right, I'm wrong. </sarcasm> Now leave the Zetec forum and don't come back. You won't be missed.

BP

 

[FIND]

I didnt change anything you said.... where does that come from? Just to be sure, I even went back and looked at what you said as I was typing this to see if YOU had even changed any of the things you said. My quote is exactly what you said, with a bunch of the other BS taken out that I didnt feel it was my responsibility to write a real long response to just to show you what you could learn if you did even the most BASIC amount of legwork yourself with google.

You are kicking me out of the zetec forums? Wow, fail. Facts? Data? WHAT facts and data? I told you, you disagree on the LED thing, pick up a trucking magazine or two, you disagree about the warm intake, e-mail ford or GM and ask, hell, if you really are that insistent, PM me, and I will find all the articles for you since you seem to want to insist that your assumptions are correct until proven wrong, despite the fact that it appears to me that you have NOT formed any of your conclusions based upon facts or real experience. In fact, your only response was sarcasm and insults. I have seen NO, 0, zero, nada, factual information provided in your post, you haven't even alluded to factual information or pointed in any direction for this alleged factual information. You just came in here and said that your e-penis is bigger so you are right and I am wrong.....

grow the hell up. You said something stupid that is based upon assumption and personal inexperience. Get a fuggin life.