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4 Problems, please help

Nice. From what I've heard, the mount you speak of isn't too bad, basically place a piece of wood on the jack, jack up the trans/motor just enough to take the weight off the mount, slide out broken bolt (if only the bolt broke) or unbolt the mount, replace with new piece (either the bolt or mount as needed), lower jack. But as I have never done this personally, I would search just in case. Good luck.
 
....basically place a piece of wood on the jack, jack up the trans/motor just enough to take the weight off the mount, slide out broken bolt (if only the bolt broke) or unbolt the mount, replace with new piece (either the bolt or mount as needed), lower jack. ....
Excellent advice. I would add that you should "paint" around the mount with Liquid Paper/Blanco so that you know exactly (?) how to align the engine/tranny before you tighten the bolts if you are changing the mount.
 
I was able to find time to look at the 4 problems, so here's an update:

1. Idle - we took off the IAC and cleaned it with carb cleaner, on the way to work this morning, I didn't have an issue, the car seemed to run fine (I'll know more the next few trips in stop and go traffic).

2. CLUNKING NOISE - Yes, it is the motor mounts. Question for anyone who has done this before, how did you do it? It is the one that is located on the bottom, closest to the firewall. It looks like a tight squeeze down there.

3. AIR BAG LIGHT - It blinked a 44, and we found the passenger side crash sensor, what do we do to it next? Should we take it off the car? Replace it? Any suggestions?

4. BACKUP LIGHTS NOT WORKING - We were trying to locate the transmission range sensor to test it, and we were playing with the wires (checking the connections) and I went and tried reverse, and the backup lights worked. So, this weekend, we'll cut off the connectors and spice the wires together and use the shrink stuff. So, just a wiring issue (not very surprising).

#1 WTG!

#2 Inspect the mounts to see which ones have badly cracked or missing rubber. With nearly a quarter of a million miles, they may all need replacing. None of them should be very difficult to do, but you'll need to put the car on ramps and get a jack to hold up the engine while you replace the mounts - one at a time please, worst one first.

#3 I dunno, never worked with those before.

#4 Excellent! use a soldering iron or gun & do that wiring right! They are cheap tools & you'll likely use them on other projects in the future.
 
Excellent advice. I would add that you should "paint" around the mount with Liquid Paper/Blanco so that you know exactly (?) how to align the engine/tranny before you tighten the bolts if you are changing the mount.

Great idea. [Files away for when I replace MINE :laugh: ].
This will make it a bunch easier to line up the holes/bolts.
 
Thanks to those of you who had something helpful to add to the post.
2 problems down (and cheaply I may add, awesome!) and 2 to go.
I will print out what you guys wrote and use this as a reference for the next 2 problems when we work on the 'Tour this weekend.
Thanks again guys!

P.S. I don't know what 'FTW' means. So, sorry Mark and Tony, I don't know what ya mean. And I am sure someone will update me. Thanks.
 
FTW = For The Win.

Just pointing out how CEG's advice has come through yet again! My advice for #1 is what helped, I might add. :laugh:

Mark
 
Oh hell yea! CEG is awesome! I probably couldn't count how many people come here for help (or to chat).
You are all a really big help! This is coming from someone who has owned their Tour for 9 years. And I don't plan on retiring it anytime soon! :)
So, yea, you are all awesome!! If I can add anything good, I will!

Oh yea, #1 has helped (thanks again!), we still have some time to determine that is won't act up again, crossing my fingers that it did!
 
Excellent advice. I would add that you should "paint" around the mount with Liquid Paper/Blanco so that you know exactly (?) how to align the engine/tranny before you tighten the bolts if you are changing the mount.

Do you really think I should do this? Considering the tranny is already resting on the frame? Shouldn't we maybe get the tranny off of the frame first? Or should we do the 'paint', for aligning the engine/tranny after getting the tranny off of the frame? Am I explaining this right? I hope you know what I mean.
Thanks!
 
Do you really think I should do this? Considering the tranny is already resting on the frame? Shouldn't we maybe get the tranny off of the frame first? Or should we do the 'paint', for aligning the engine/tranny after getting the tranny off of the frame? Am I explaining this right? I hope you know what I mean.
Thanks!

I thought about this and edited my (this) post. If it is still bolted on, you should "paint" it. Because that is where it was originally but it is just sagging now because the rubber inserts are worn out.

If the bolts are broken and it is just hanging loosely, then you need the "alignment tool" from Autozone or Ford.
 
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3 of 4 solved, not bad!

3 of 4 solved, not bad!

I was able to find time to look at the 4 problems, so here's an update:

1. Idle - we took off the IAC and cleaned it with carb cleaner, on the way to work this morning, I didn't have an issue, the car seemed to run fine (I'll know more the next few trips in stop and go traffic).

2. CLUNKING NOISE - Yes, it is the motor mounts. Question for anyone who has done this before, how did you do it? It is the one that is located on the bottom, closest to the firewall. It looks like a tight squeeze down there.

3. AIR BAG LIGHT - It blinked a 44, and we found the passenger side crash sensor, what do we do to it next? Should we take it off the car? Replace it? Any suggestions?

4. BACKUP LIGHTS NOT WORKING - We were trying to locate the transmission range sensor to test it, and we were playing with the wires (checking the connections) and I went and tried reverse, and the backup lights worked. So, this weekend, we'll cut off the connectors and spice the wires together and use the shrink stuff. So, just a wiring issue (not very surprising).

1. IDLE - Fixed - (cleaning the IAC appears to have worked!!)

2. CLUNKING NOISE - Fixed - We have changed the crossmember motor mount, and yes, it's a big pain. So, good luck to any of you who ever attempt to do it. If a Howto is needed, let me know and I can get all of the details of how we did it on here. (We still have another motor mount to change, one that is closest to the air filter, we'll do it when time permits).

3. AIR BAG LIGHT - Fixed - Code 44 - RH Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly. We took off the sensor, and the bolts were rusted and so was the connection, so we used new bolts, and sanded the connection (also using the tap set). And that fixed the annoying blinking air bag light!!! Awesome!

4. BACKUP LIGHTS NOT WORKING - We reconnected the wires (we soldered them and used the plastic shrink stuff) and they worked, but right after we did the motor mounts, they worked momentarily, then stopped. So, we will check the connector, the wires on it may have came out.

So, that sums up 3 of 4 problems. 1 more problem came up. As the car was jacked up off the ground, we noticed alot of fluid (we thought it was oil at first), but it appears to be coming from the power steering pump, it has a bad seal. So, we will be replacing that sometime this week.
Ahh, the joys of 1/4 million miles! :)
 
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... CLUNKING NOISE - Fixed - We have changed the crossmember motor mount, and yes, it's a big pain. So, good luck to any of you who ever attempt to do it. If a Howto is needed, let me know and I can get all of the details of how we did it on here... :)

Yes, please do. And post in the M&M How to forum. Thanks.
 
Power steering surgery

Power steering surgery

Last night we performed surgery on the Tour. We replaced the power steering pump, and it took roughly 4 hours. Sure, it could've taken less time, if he just took it out and threw the new one in. But, we took it out, prepped the new one, looked around to see if anything else may have caused the leaking oil/fluid. Cleaned the area for the new pump, cleaned the parts in the parts washer (my friend hates installing dirty parts). And then installed everything. The only thing we had trouble with, is the new pump only came with 1 white gasket (it connects to the power steering line). And it should've came with 2. So, time was short. We installed it with the old gasket.
Of course it leaked there. But it also leaked out of the pump closest to the motor. So, we had to abort. The Tour is still in the shop, and we will continue on the project tonight after work. More work to follow. So, it may not have been a bad pump, my friend is thinking it may be a bad power steering line.
We almost replaced this a couple of months ago, and found out the power steering cooler was bad. And replaced that.
So the work continues, Tour'less today :(
 
With the mileage on the car, I can say two things:

MOST people would say "screw it" and dump the car for another one. Good on you.

MOST cars with that many miles would have MORE problems, and the fact that you guys attack the problems and are proactive about potential problems is EXCELLENT!
 
Thanks! This year we've replaced alot on my car. And we do replace the problems before I'm on the side of the road broken down. Sometimes I do think 'screw it' (especially when I found out we had to replace the valve cover gaskets) time for another car. But then I remember, if I did buy another car, I'd just have a whole new set of problems, so I may as well work with what I have. I know the history on this car (well, I've had it since it's had 40,000 miles, so I don't know what they did to it before me).
This years list of parts is very long. But, my friend and I have worked thru the battles pretty well. I hate to say it, but after this repair, I hope to have a break for a few months (minus basic maintenance). I seem to be in the garage too much lately. This time we are trying to get this done before the weekend, we would like to have 1 weekend off of garge time (at least not working on my car).
 
Help! Power steering pump leaking. It's new.

Help! Power steering pump leaking. It's new.

Yes, the power steering pump is brand new. We have installed it 2 times now. The first time, the store didn't give us enough gaskets for the lines that connect to it (or o-rings for that matter either). So we picked up the right gaskets and o-rings, and tried it again last night.
We installed the power steering pump, and it leaks closest to the bottom of the car, in which I am assuming that is the pressure hose. For 1, am I correct with that assumption? It is not leaking on the hose that is on the top. It is leaking towards the bottom. Can anyone here tell me if my assumptions are correct? And wow, if they are, the power steering pressure hose (on fordpartsonline) is expensive! $130, I sure hope I can find it for less then that. Darn it.
Thanks for any info! Another Tour'less day :(
 
Power steering almost fixed.

Power steering almost fixed.

We replaced the power steering pressure hose, and it stopped the main leak. But the rest of the hose (it goes under the car), that started leaking. So we started to take that hose out last night. And the Tour is still in the garage. We hope to get her back on the road soon. Yikes!
 
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