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I guess I am LOSING my Contour

My private post to Tony

Originally Posted by andreslobo
Tony

And if they are like most shops that now change trans oil, all they really do is to remove it, filter it, add some additives, and pour it right back in.

Most troubleshooting is free and may take the person down the correct path. Changing oil on a trans that is headed for the rebuilders costs the person money and time better spent elsewhere.

Tony

most diagnositics are cheap (free) and much easier than changing oil.

Where do you get the idea that using transmission fluid over is common? That is a practice that I have never seen, even from hack shops.

Diagnostics easy and free? Well, you get what you pay for. Find a shop that gives away diagnostics and either you find one that is broke or is on their way there.

You really have some warped ideas about the auto repair industry, so warped that you would be better keeping them to yourself. Your advice for this thread sucks. Knock it off! If you really don't know, DON'T POST.
 
Where do you get the idea that using transmission fluid over is common? That is a practice that I have never seen, even from hack shops.

Diagnostics easy and free? Well, you get what you pay for. Find a shop that gives away diagnostics and either you find one that is broke or is on their way there.

You really have some warped ideas about the auto repair industry, so warped that you would be better keeping them to yourself. Your advice for this thread sucks. Knock it off! If you really don't know, DON'T POST.
Finally more people are seeing the same thing Tex and I saw in his posts in another thread................


Dude take our advice already and stfu
 
Jim we must move in different circles

Jim we must move in different circles

1. Yes more shops are recyling trans fluid by filtering, and putting in additives during a flush. This is becoming more common as the costs of oil disposal continue to increase.

2. The diagnostics I was talking about were the ones that the person does themselves not free ones from a shop. I am certain kinda like you do on your own cars.

3. I am fairly knowledgable on things automotive and I'll contribute when I want. And yes I have bowed out when the issue is not one that I know of.

As for the STFU crowd, piss off
 
1. Yes more shops are recyling trans fluid by filtering, and putting in additives during a flush. This is becoming more common as the costs of oil disposal continue to increase.

2. The diagnostics I was talking about were the ones that the person does themselves not free ones from a shop. I am certain kinda like you do on your own cars.

3. I am fairly knowledgable on things automotive and I'll contribute when I want. And yes I have bowed out when the issue is not one that I know of.

As for the STFU crowd, piss off

Wonderful attitude. Perhaps that is part of why you seem to think the worst of your fellow mankind.

Since you started this bent about recycling trans fluid, I have contacted two local trans shops, a local quick lube, contacted two of my former fellow Ford service managers, and talked with my former warranty claims processor. None of them have heard of this.

This all serves to support my conclusion that you are full of more stuffing than a Christmas Turkey.
 
we had a similar problem back in the day on our old 95 mystique...there is a sensor on the transmission that tells it what gear it needs to be in based on engine rpm/speed or whatever.

doesn't have anything to do with what you see on your speedometer.

anyway, when it goes bad what happens sounds exactly like what you're going through...i remember driving our car like that and you would accelerate normally ad then *bang* into whatever gear...usually something way too high cause the car would bog, then *bang* again back down. it was really scary actually but was a relatively cheap fix.
 
.... I am fairly knowledgable on things automotive and I'll contribute when I want....

As for the STFU crowd, piss off

And as a Moderator here, I will delete and/or edit your posts when I want. Contour.org is not a democracy. And you are not recognized as an expert on the forums (especially the Troubleshooting Forum). My patience is wearing thin with your statements. If you can't play nice, you will be "sent off the field".
 
yup that's the one! hopefully the OP can direct his mechanics attention to that and get it fixed.

I don't need to direct my mechanic's attention to TSS, I can do it myself:cool:... I just need to find it first:confused:
I checked Autozone and SilverstateFord websites and couldn't find it.

Does anyone have the part # for this TSS?

I would like to get it from a local autostore if using after market parts is not an issue. It will be much faster this way and I won't pay shipping. If I have to order it from online stores (like SilverStateFord) I will pay shipping for probably 10 bucks at least. If I can get the part(TSS), I will replace it this weekend.
As of yesterday, I stopped driving my Ford. Here and there I have driven it for another 150 miles since the incident happened. And after the first day, it had once bang shifted and yesterday while driving back home, the RPM started becoming unstable after the 3rd gear. Especially shifting from 3rd to 4th gear was an issue. It was taking several seconds sometimes. The car was hesitating whether or not she should shift leaving me between gears.
I hope it would be the TSS but the downpart is NO Codes!!! no CEL!!!
I don't know why:shrug:
 
I don't need to direct my mechanic's attention to TSS, I can do it myself:cool:... I just need to find it first:confused:
I checked Autozone and SilverstateFord websites and couldn't find it.

Does anyone have the part # for this TSS?

Vehicle Speed Sensor $45 (the one that controls the speedometer) is F5RZ-9E731-AC.

Turbine Shaft Speed Sensor $26 (the one that fixes "Bang Shift") is TSS: 1S7Z-7M101-KA. This comes out as vehicle speed sensor in the online parts order but it is the Turbine Shaft Speed Sensor.
 
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Thank you Tony. I checked with local part stores first. They won't even carry it in their wearhouse. So my only option is to order online.
The part# for TSS you gave me doesn't have the same configuration of other Ford parts, thus SilverStateFord website didn't find it.

Can you recommend a place to order it?
Thanks
 
Never mind Tony,

I found it here:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/D96438B.html

Definitely an aftermarket one due to its cheaper price but they are close to me and I talked to them and they agreed to send it tome via USPS priority mail for $5 shipping. So they said would get it out by the end of the day. If so, I will have it in my hands by the weekend:)

So this is the right part right?
 
That looks to be it. It is the white, updated one...I think the one in your tranny currently is black. It is on the tranny just behind driver's side wheel. Can't miss it.
 
Exactly Zorrex. I checked mine. It is the black one; the original; has been sitting there since March 1995:)

The store in Alabama shipped my sensor yesterday with USPS priority mail as they promised me. So I have a good chance that I will get it tomorrow before the post office goes to holiday sleep.
 
Suggestion

Suggestion

Hey hey,

I'm new to this forum and I couldn't help but see this problem is very, very similar to a baffling problem I had with my 99 Contour SE 2.0 DOHC

Now, my transmission fluid started smelling burnt, apparently the 2/3 snap ring wanted to depart from this horrible, horrible life. Since I loved the car so much, I had the transmission rebuilt at a local shop and while they tore it down I had them install a tranny cooler too.

I was ecstatic when I got the car back, but I got a horrific series of bang shifts, almost like the transmission couldn't decide what gear it wanted to be in. If I pressed it enough, it levelled out once the engine got up to temperature, and it was also fine if the engine was cold. The transition with heat and cold seemed to do it, and driving the car anyplace was like a scary bucking bronco.

The tranny shop was baffled, they tore the whole thing down again, tested every nuance, etc etc, and it was completely fine. I was back and forth with them for about a month with this. No engine codes, no tranny codes, nothing.

I was almost ready to give up on the car, but since I figured it was a computer problem, I decided to start having random sensors that were related to the transmission changed. No go with any speed sensors or whatnot, and then I saw an odd sensor that looked like it was directly on top of the transmission, so I asked what it was. The shop replied that it was the Manual Lever Position Sensor, but it was fine because it wasn't shooting a code, and that they even tested it. When I found out it was 50 bucks, I told them to replace it anyway, and I never had the problem again.

Now I was a bit shocked at this, so I pulled the specs for the MLPS and started testing the old one with a multimeter, because I'm more of a geek head than a greasemonkey. Now it's been about two years since all this happened, but I basically found out that the thing went just out of whack enough to mess with my head but not out of spec enough for the car's computer to realize that it was failing, thus no code.

Anyway, the part number is 6L8Z-7F293-AA and I found pictures of it it on ebay item number 330234092868. Can't seem to find it in autozone or any other place like that. I'd replace it even if it's not throwing a code.
 
You can't edit posts? Aw, anyway I back-referenced the web site "iskoos" used and found the part there too
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/D96410E.html

Just a reminder, I'm no expert whatsoever, and am in absolutely no position to be contradicting anybody who's picked up a wrench. I'm just relating an anecdote about something that happened to me and my Contour ^.^

Didn't mention in my prev. post that the thing that made the sensor start to go out of whack was when I pointed a heat gun at it, and it wasn't heated through all the way.
 
draconianspark,

Thank you for your contribution. I appreciate it very much. Not everybody is expert on this forum the idea is to share what yo know and what you have been through. Even the most ireelevant thing may help sometimes.
So again greatly appreciated.

I had already ordered the TSS when you posted and I got the sensor yesterday in the mail. Thanks to USPS priority mail. My favorite shipping method. I didn't have time yesterday but this morning, I pulled my Ford into my garage and started working on replacing this TSS sensor. It was very straigh forward once you remove the driver's side front wheel. Removing it was a breeze. I thought it might have been difficult since the sensor was the original and had been sitting there for almost 15 years.
I also thought that I might have some oil spilage. No oil came out.
After removing it,I compared it to the new one. The overall shape was the same but the tip of the sensor was really different. The old one has a metal poking out from the tip of the plastic. The new one doesn't have this. See the pictures please...
Also as usual I immediately measured the resistance on both sensors and there was a big difference: 186 ohm (old sensor) vs 838 ohm (new sensor) See the pictures again!..
Well, I am not saying that because of this difference, the old sensor was defective and new sensor will fix the problem. One of them is old(15 years old) sensor and the other one is brandnew sensor and a different design, it is expected to see some difference but this much difference felt a bit weird. Anyways, again I am not jumping into any conclusion because of that...
I then checked the wiring and it was in very good shape. After wiping of the oil residue, I could see that all wire insulation was intact. I followed the wire to the main harnes and didn't see any insulation cracks.
So I went ahead put the new sensor in. I then test drove the car in my neighborhood and all was fine but this doesn't tell me anything because it wasn't doing all the time. For me to be able to tell that the problem has been fixed requires me to drive the car several days without being very nice to her. For now unfortunatley I cannot say anything.
I just wanted to share what I did with you. If this doesn't fix the problem, I will consider replacing the MLPS sensor. Especially when it is this cheap this from Macko.
 

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My understanding of a TSS' function is that it's a close cousin to a crank sensor and it just picks up how many times a magnet on w/e it's measuring passes by it and either increases or drops its resistance based on the proximity of the magnet. I can't find out what the values are supposed to be though. What I remember about the MLPS is that it's basically an overblown potentiometer/rhiostat that changes about 2 hundredths of an ohm per click when the center spindle is turned by a pin sticking out of the the transmission that corresponds to what the gearshift is pushed to. 800vs100 is a sig. difference for resistance, but who knows, the car might not care if it's 100 dropping to 0 or 800 dropping to 0
 
TSS is definitely a sensor that records and lets PCM know how fast the turbine shaft spins. I don't know if it is a magnetic or some other type sensor though. I did search the net and couldn't find any resistance value or method to test it.
I will drive my car more tomorrow. I plan on putting about 20-30 miles and see how she does. I am really not expecting a miracle but you never know there is always hope...

We will see and I will post whatever develops in this case...
 
After the TSS change

After the TSS change

Well, it didn't take me more than a few miles to figure out that whatever is wrong is still there:(

I drove it for about 6 miles today. It didn't bang shift but did some weird things. It was okay while shifting to 2nd or to 3rd but shifting to 4th was a bit hassle. The car was lingering on the 3rd gear too much. At one point, I was over 40 mph and still on the 3rd gear. Other times, it shifted to 4th but it was taking too long; as if I was letting off the gas when she was about to shift to 4th and thus making her not to shift. I generally drove around 40mph but just to see how it respond, I gave gas once; Around 45 mph, it was like clutch was engaging/disengaging intermitantly and therefore, you would feel some power interuption. It was like the engine was missing but it wasn't the case of course.

I don't see any point on test driving anymore since whatever is there won't fix itself.
Should I go for MLPS before taking it to a tranny shop?
What do you guys say?
 
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