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which IM for 3.0?

youre welcome. if you are getting a tune just keep your stock MAF. you can run 19# injectors in a 17# system without tuning. ive done it. you will burn quite a bit of fuel till the computer learns and compensates but it will beneficial in the long run. joey can tune to most any MAF. im sure he has charts for just about every one used. you just have to let him know what it came out of. if you can get your hands on a set of 19#s go for it. or just run the 17#s for now. it will be fine as long as you arnt hardcore racing.
 
I already spliced the harness for the 24lb'rs

I think it's janky to use narrow angle injectors in an oval port.

it's worth hunting in pull-a-part for a maf when they'll charge me like 5 bucks for it and it may help out in the short term before I can get it tuned.
 
I already spliced the harness for the 24lb'rs

I think it's janky to use narrow angle injectors in an oval port.

it's worth hunting in pull-a-part for a maf when they'll charge me like 5 bucks for it and it may help out in the short term before I can get it tuned.

I think 'narrow' injectors is the least of your janky to worry about.
 
I already spliced the harness for the 24lb'rs

I think it's janky to use narrow angle injectors in an oval port.

it's worth hunting in pull-a-part for a maf when they'll charge me like 5 bucks for it and it may help out in the short term before I can get it tuned.

First, the narrow pattern injectors, while not ideal on an oval port, are not the worst thing in the world. You simply get more port wall wetting. You will lose just a little power and fuel economy, but not the end of the world, and not something that someone like you would be even able to feel the difference.

Second, when will you get it through your thick skull that mixing and matching MAFS won't account for the injector change? A MAF is simply a sensor that puts out a voltage from 0-5V depending on how much air is flowing through it. the PCM has a map programmed in it, that tells it how much air is coming in at a given voltage from the MAFS. The PCM then looks at how large the injectors are supposed to be, combines that with a few other factors and decides how long to leave the injectors open for each cycle. Now, some aftermarket MAFS have carefully tweaked the output to match the airflow % difference to a specified injector difference, ie, from a 19# to a 24#. Even when the aftermarket companies do it, its a crapshoot, it often performs poorly, and even when it functions acceptably, it causes problems with the load calculations in the PCM. So, when even the guys using big, expensive flow benches to carefully calibrate thier MAFS to bandaid an injector change have significant issues more often than not, what makes you think that you can pick a MAFS at random from a junkyard and have it work better than leaving things the way they are until you can get it done right?

You are FAR FAR better off running a narrow spray pattern stock 19# injector (or use the stock 3.0L wide spray injector even) until you can afford to get a tune done, than to try to hack together some kludge of a mismatched injector, MAFS, and PCM combination.
 
Its old school thinking, matching injectors with maf. Maybe on obd1, but not on anything modern. Makes no difference. Wont work until its tuned..........................................................
 
if you want a change for the better, use the stock injectors, and stock maf sensor, with a bigger housing. you'll be reading the correct voltage and the load calculations wil work better, but you'll have the ability to pull more air on top which is necessary.
 
I'm an SE, no 19lb injectors.

17lb's would be beyond their duty cycle

I'm also not pulling it all apart and re-splicing the wiring harness. 24lb injectors will also allow me to play with n2o or a supercharger in the future

I'm going to get a tune later anyway, I'm just talking band-aids right now
 
ok, but they suck, and I wouldn't run them myself

how is that hybrid you've got there? why'd you run the 3l cams when they are basically the same as the se ones? wouldn't svt cams have been the move?
 
ok, but they suck, and I wouldn't run them myself

how is that hybrid you've got there? why'd you run the 3l cams when they are basically the same as the se ones? wouldn't svt cams have been the move?

The later 3L cams have the same lift as the SVT cams, and are a much better choice than the SE 2.5L cams. Whether they are better than the SVT cams depends on intended usage, and what other parts are going with them, and most importantly, personal preference.
 
ahh, I thought the lift was all the same, and that the later figures were a typo

had heard in the past it had to do with e followers, but that got disproved
 
how is that hybrid you've got there? why'd you run the 3l cams when they are basically the same as the se ones? wouldn't svt cams have been the move?
Runnin strong thanks. I wanted to run the newer style chains, guides and tensioners, which I needed newer style cams for.... plus the parts all ended up being cheaper than replacement 2.5L parts.

However, I have recently acquired an SVT engine so my setup may be changing in the future. I might swap the heads and cams in eventually... after some head work. :cool:
 
how terrible was it?
Not terrible at all. It ran exactly as it's supposed to according to the SE PCM. The only problem is that the SE PCM sees a fault of some sort anywhere above 5200RPM @ WOT, and initiates the full-rich fuel strategy. Other than that, it ran perfectly.
 
how terrible was it?

at any rate, I'm down the road I'm down

sooty cats/02s are safer than destroyed internals in my view anyway

unless you dump enough fuel to dilute the oil and then ruin your cylinder walls because your oil is contaminated with fuel and doesnt lubricate, as in exactly what happened to my 5-liter.
and it's not a "sooty cat", it will be a melted/clogged cat. too rich can be as bad to an engine as too lean
 
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