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Looky Looky... KSport

Well ill be interested to see how the car sits with my stock eo's and a mirko with just about the same set up as you!
 
CSVT#49 said:
The other thing I was wondering about was my sway bar endlink height. I really wasn't sure on where to set those. I may have just half a$$ed it when I set the pinch collar to where the sway bar endlink slid into it when there was no load on the car.
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Good way to do this is put a jack under the control arm and raise it up to simulate ride height. Than adjust your collars so there close to equal position side to side. There will be no preloading of the sway bar than.
 
Livinsvt said:
Good way to do this is put a jack under the control arm and raise it up to simulate ride height. Than adjust your collars so there close to equal position side to side. There will be no preloading of the sway bar than.
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Oh sweet... so I did do it right. I had the car jacked up at all four corners set to the same height on all the jack stands. I then jacked up the control arms so they were level with the subframe and it was at this time after the coilovers were installed that I set the pinch collars height for the end links. Both sides are set to the same height.

So I guess my first shot at it was good enough after all.
 
Glad to see that the pinch bolt was added to the product! :cool:

When you said you had upgraded camber plates, I thought you meant you had purchased the universal camber kit from KSport, but it appears you bought the BAT camber kit. That POS broke on me last Fall, allowing the strut to bang around in the strut tower :mad:, so I don't recommend it to anybody. We need a better solution, and I may have stumbled across it last week. If there's another option, I'll let everyone know.
 
SoopaCooga said:
it appears you bought the BAT camber kit. That POS broke on me last Fall, allowing the strut to bang around in the strut tower
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I actually did not buy the BAT kit. I bought the Rock Auto camber kit, which I linked in the one post.

I then bought the upgraded camber plates through the GB.
 
CSVT#49 said:
I actually did not buy the BAT kit. I bought the Rock Auto camber kit, which I linked in the one post.
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Gotcha. I see it's the same design. I hope yours is better made than mine and Topik's. The upgraded camber plates made no difference for me.
 
camber plates are garbage. iv been rollin full slam full stiff for 2-3 years with no camber plates and picture perfect wear. you have wear on suspension components if your alignment is affected. my .02!
 
All this talk about the ride height adjustability being non-uniform causes concern for me. I need to go-way up or way-down. The front height shown In the picture looks nice, but if you cant go much higher, that will be an issue for me. It's definitely holding me back. Any updates on the reason? Are we still waiting for pictures?
 
I took my splitter off for now, which gave me back about 2" worth of clearance. I'm rebuilding the front of my splitter and then designing my own skid plate for just the corners.

I may upgrade to 19" wheels so that I can gain a little more clearance. However I'm concerned about rubbing with such a large size wheel because I'm sure it will be a lot wider then my current 17x7... hell 18's are 18x8 and I know they rub. That is why I never bought the Focus RS wheels.
 
CSVT#49 said:
I took my splitter off for now, which gave me back about 2" worth of clearance. I'm rebuilding the front of my splitter and then designing my own skid plate for just the corners.

I may upgrade to 19" wheels so that I can gain a little more clearance. However I'm concerned about rubbing with such a large size wheel because I'm sure it will be a lot wider then my current 17x7... hell 18's are 18x8 and I know they rub. That is why I never bought the Focus RS wheels.
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Really you should just be worried about overall tire diameter, the wheel size doesn't really matter. So if Reebs had some tall tires on those stock 16s they could've been considerably taller than your 17s.

You better have the splitter back on for this Saturday :cool: If you ever consider unloading those wheels let me know first ;)
 
Redlineracer12 said:
Really you should just be worried about overall tire diameter, the wheel size doesn't really matter. So if Reebs had some tall tires on those stock 16s they could've been considerably taller than your 17s.

You better have the splitter back on for this Saturday :cool: If you ever consider unloading those wheels let me know first ;)
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Sorry to disappoint Tony. You saw the pictures of the splitter repair...

Maybe I'll just get taller tires. I need new ones anyway.and the ones on there I believe are 215/45's

I'll probably end up getting 225/55 or 60's
 
i am a certified tech. i installed my own konis. i do all my own work. is their anything special i need to know when installing these? its a simple strut/spring r&r isn't it?
 
CSVT#49 said:
Sorry to disappoint Tony. You saw the pictures of the splitter repair...

Maybe I'll just get taller tires. I need new ones anyway.and the ones on there I believe are 215/45's

I'll probably end up getting 225/55 or 60's
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I'm not sure what the offset is like on those wheels but I'd imagine you'd be close to rubbing with something as wide as 225 and tall like that.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
I'm not sure what the offset is like on those wheels but I'd imagine you'd be close to rubbing with something as wide as 225 and tall like that.
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Yea...

I just noticed that the noises I was hearing where due to the fact that the front springs were compressed way to far and the coils were hitting each other. I'm going to have to screw around with these some more in the front.

Usually to adjust coilovers you crank up the struts out of the base and then adjust your spring. The KSports I have do not thread out of the base in the front. Only the rear. So I have no adjustment without compressing the front springs...

So right now I have the base of the spring at 7" from the base of the strut with the pinch clamp for the end link at 2 1/2". I think to reduce the compression of the spring I'm going to have to set the springs to 5 1/2" from the base. However I don't know what that will do to my ride height.

Starjammer... what do you have your springs/end links set to, measuring from the base of the strut (top of black or in your case silver collar)
 
did anyone find out the spring rate for this kit ? Def. want progressively wound..G.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Yea...

I just noticed that the noises I was hearing where due to the fact that the front springs were compressed way to far and the coils were hitting each other. I'm going to have to screw around with these some more in the front.

Usually to adjust coilovers you crank up the struts out of the base and then adjust your spring. The KSports I have do not thread out of the base in the front. Only the rear. So I have no adjustment without compressing the front springs...

So right now I have the base of the spring at 7" from the base of the strut with the pinch clamp for the end link at 2 1/2". I think to reduce the compression of the spring I'm going to have to set the springs to 5 1/2" from the base. However I don't know what that will do to my ride height.
Click to expand...

Any update on the ride height problem? I would like to get these, but if the front ends up too low I may have to pass and end up with choice #2 (Koni/GC :rolleyes:).
 
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