• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Is my new 3L is dead ?!?!?!

S

SpdySVT

CEG'er
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
59
Location
Apopka, Fl
was running good but now it's dead ... i was driving down local I-4 in town and it lost power.. had low oil like 2 qts so it's got a bad gasket or it's burnin it ... i think it's leakin cuz it's leakin a lot on my driveway... so i'll find that out but i have a fully charged battery and it felt like it just lost power and it turns over but no start..... any clue ? also pulled the vac lines off the valve covers and they were filled with oil and so was my intake manifold ..... what the hell happened ? it's getting air, spark and fuel ... why isn't it starting ??????
 
So let's recap. You have oil in the driveway, oil in the vacuum lines, valve covers and intake manifold, and you are two quarts low in the pan. Yes, you have a problem. Trying to start it right now is the last thing you should be doing. It must have been like the spyhunter smoke screen driving behind you when it was running.

Check the color of the coolant first. Is it milky white? If so stop, you have a blown head gasket.
 
also check your PCV system. your crankcase vent box could be messed up. my PCV line was full of oil and i changed the PCV and its okay now, i used to burn a quart and a half at an oil change but now i burn about a half a quart. a bad head gasket would be told by the smoke from teh exhaust.
 
anyone ??? Help !!! Please ????

anyone ??? Help !!! Please ????

TRicker said:
also check your PCV system. your crankcase vent box could be messed up. my PCV line was full of oil and i changed the PCV and its okay now, i used to burn a quart and a half at an oil change but now i burn about a half a quart. a bad head gasket would be told by the smoke from teh exhaust.
Click to expand...

Ok my brother who works for SVT says im not getting enough fuel he dumped fuel in the intke man and got it to fun for a lil while i really need help is anyone neer ORLANDO that has worked with crappy 3.0's lol well it's a good 3.0 i just don't have the knowledge and he looked @ it for about 30 seconds and said "good luck" he's not familier with the CSVT he worked on the Cobra div.. anyway anyone ??? Help !!! Please ????
 
my guess would be a yes.

Have you drained the remaining oil to look for any metal fragments or other evidence of failure?
 
ok no milky white in the coolant and the pvc valve was screwed so i replaced it, but still no start the compression is good on all cylinders, so no mech failure the there was actually lil to no smoke behild the car when it stoped running...... next thing i can check ?
 
did you change your oil yet? Trying to start your car with 2qts under isn't the greatest idea
 
if you use full synthetic oil, it usually doesn't give off the characteristic blue smoke when it's being burnt.

I'll tell you that when my 2.5 blew a few years ago, there was no evidence that it stopped. I came up to a red light, popped it out of gear and coasted to a stop. All the electrics kept working as normal. The light turned green, put it into first and nothing. It didn't want to turn over or budge at all. According to the mechanics that took it apart, a lifter or valve failed and that was instantly the death of it.
 
SpdySVT said:
Ok my brother who works for SVT says im not getting enough fuel he dumped fuel in the intke man and got it to fun for a lil while i really need help is anyone neer ORLANDO that has worked with crappy 3.0's lol well it's a good 3.0 i just don't have the knowledge and he looked @ it for about 30 seconds and said "good luck" he's not familier with the CSVT he worked on the Cobra div.. anyway anyone ??? Help !!! Please ????
Click to expand...
LOL @ your brother. Gasoline engines are the same no matter what car they are in. The same conditions make them run and the same conditions can keep them from running. They all require air and fuel. In your case, it sounds like it might not be getting much of either if you say your IM is full of oil. You'll need address this oiling issue before you go any further. Find and fix the oil leak(s), clean out the intake manifold, etc. You really can't go any further until you do.
Karl
 
Some basics are the same on any engine. They need proper valve timing. It ran so that is not a likely problem. They need compression. Compression check shows good. They need spark. They need fuel.

You know the spark is OK as it started with added fuel.

It starts and "funs" when fuel is added.

What a revelation! It's not getting fuel.

First things first. Did you check the fuel pump shutoff switch? They can pop from going over sever bumps or if someone hits the car in a parking lot.

If resetting the switch doesn't help, get a fuel pressure gauge on it and start figuring out why you have no fuel. Blown pump? Plugged filter? Plugged pump intake screen? Bad connection on the injector loom? EMPTY FUEL TANK?

Yes, you need to get the engine problems sorted out, but chasing that to resolve the NO FUEL problem is a RED HEERING.
 
big jim im lovin it yeah the conditions are as you stated timing air fuel and compression i get spark, timing is good cuz it will run with added fuel so i know it's not getting enough fuel now it soed get like 40psi @ the fuel rail i just checked it i hope thats enough .. then again i don't know... "things i will try right now.. Resetting the fuel shut off switich by the left side kick panel ... everything else i have worked on now the injector loom.. thats a tricky 1 my injector loom has a bad injector housing clip so it's "super glued" on to the injector if that came off i assume it would run but miss on that cylinder right ??? but assuming anything sucks anyone know for sure or would it "cause fuel delivery failure" for the whole loom ????? on another note yeah it has all new fluid i did that way b 4 i tried starting it again .. took the oil pan off and cleaned it looked forlil pieces of metal.. none found.. and the coolant was good but drained it as well and refilled it so on fluids im good i know where my oil leak is commong from kinda somewhere by the lower drive pulley i get it comming from there so maybe it didn't seal from there well ???? hmmm idk??? any more sugestions i will make sure the loom is good and tight and the switich is reset... after that im again clueless of and the ioling i think is fixed cuz of the pvc valve issue i think..... then again i will only know if it cranks.. thanks again.. can't wait to get it running after i drive it for a while im gonna sell it and go buy a honda... JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!! i would never do that.. im sorry that was a really bad joke lol.....


Big Jim said:
Some basics are the same on any engine. They need proper valve timing. It ran so that is not a likely problem. They need compression. Compression check shows good. They need spark. They need fuel.

You know the spark is OK as it started with added fuel.

It starts and "funs" when fuel is added.

What a revelation! It's not getting fuel.

First things first. Did you check the fuel pump shutoff switch? They can pop from going over sever bumps or if someone hits the car in a parking lot.

If resetting the switch doesn't help, get a fuel pressure gauge on it and start figuring out why you have no fuel. Blown pump? Plugged filter? Plugged pump intake screen? Bad connection on the injector loom? EMPTY FUEL TANK?

Yes, you need to get the engine problems sorted out, but chasing that to resolve the NO FUEL problem is a RED HEERING.
Click to expand...
 
You used Super Glue as a permanent solution? I ran across a car like that once. We could not get it to kick over. The clip for the crank trigger broke and someone super glued it on. The contact points for the sensor got covered in glue as it cured and as a consequence it didn't run. Not saying that is your issue, but how about just getting a new clip?

40 PSI at the rail is normal pressure. Logic dictates that your injectors are not firing then. Are all of your grounds connected and harness clips plugged in? There are three barrel shaped connectors on the rear passenger side head. Those are notorious for not clipping all the way together tightly. BStoneMega had to use channel locks to get them to click. I'd start there.
 
UUUMMMM...here's a thought guys! Maybe the oil in the intake manifold is fouling the plugs. When extra fuel is added (I'm assuming you are spraying ether or some other combustible straight into the manifold) they are washed off, so to speak, and you have a running motor...for the moment...until the oil that is getting sucked into the manifold coats the plugs again.

Everyone commenting on this thrread offering advice, remember, the car was running fine and LOST POWER until dying. This is not characteristic of a bad injector, or a PATS issue. I could see however, a ground coming loose and draining power to the battery, but that seems have been proven wrong for the time being since you put a fresh charged battery and added fuel and the motor ran.

SOOOOOOO, this is what I think:


First....Fix oil leak!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Find out where its leaking and fix alll leaks. The PCV failure makes sense as to why there was oil in the manifold. The Crank seal is probably shot as well or installed incorrectly=have fun with this one!
Second....Clean upper and lower intake manifolds and change or clean the spark plugs.
Third....By a new clip for the injector from ford. Cost=very cheap.


I have a sneaking suspicion that once these problems are fixed, your car will start and run again.
 
Last edited:
well this is a laundry list of stuff to do but im going from step 1 of the quote below to lhe last step will do all below today and thursday so i will let ys know whats up on friday of this week and see if it's running this is a lot to do i should of went hybrid! :( anyway thanks for the advice i will also check the easy stuff first and if i get a go i'll let everyone know ... thanks again ..


Pale Horse said:
UUUMMMM...here's a thought guys! Maybe the oil in the intake manifold is fouling the plugs. When extra fuel is added (I'm assuming you are spraying ether or some other combustible straight into the manifold) they are washed off, so to speak, and you have a running motor...for the moment...until the oil that is getting sucked into the manifold coats the plugs again.

Everyone commenting on this thrread offering advice, remember, the car was running fine and LOST POWER until dying. This is not characteristic of a bad injector, or a PATS issue. I could see however, a ground coming loose and draining power to the battery, but that seems have been proven wrong for the time being since you put a fresh charged battery and added fuel and the motor ran.

SOOOOOOO, this is what I think:


First....Fix oil leak!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Find out where its leaking and fix alll leaks. The PCV failure makes sense as to why there was oil in the manifold. The Crank seal is probably shot as well or installed incorrectly=have fun with this one!
Second....Clean upper and lower intake manifolds and change or clean the spark plugs.
Third....By a new clip for the injector from ford. Cost=very cheap.


I have a sneaking suspicion that once these problems are fixed, your car will start and run again.
Click to expand...
 
look i know it was stated that it ran with fuel sprayed in it but. it may have a bad crank sensor, that will cause a crank no start condition, it doesn't explain the adding fuel thing but it is just a thought,, mine had a similar problem a few weeks ago. and that is what it was
 
well i fixed the pvc valve and changed the plugs out and if i can find a good vac guide or diagram for my 3.0 im sure i could run it or attempt it's been so long i forgot to where they go ..... any help ????? im clueless ... as for the problem 4 out of 6 plugs were bad i just happened to check the 2 that were good and not covered with oil from the pvc failure so the issue i believe is that by adding a started fluid the 2 plugs fired ran really bad for a second, giving me a false hope thinking i was getting spark but in reality only the 2 plugs were sparking and causing a really bad idle and shut off when it did start so i just need a diagram for the wireing and the vac lines to "attemp to turn it over" ... thanks in advance everyone .. also if your "the $hit in vac lines and can walk me through it call me @ 407-219-1912" thanks again ..

Patrick B.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top