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Engine noise...possible causes?

S

Sl33stak

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 17, 2003
Messages
61
Location
Michigan, Eaton Rapids
Here's what I have.

@2250-2750 RPM DURING acceleration or revving in neutral I get a rattly knocking sound from the engine. ONLY during acceleration or rev. If I get up past 3k or so and coast or let the car idle down it DOESN'T make the noise.

It's loud and scary as hell to hear it.

Valve?
Crank Bearing?
*gulp Main bearing?

I have inquired about putting in a new motor, but if I can avoid that my bank account would love me.

Oh, 2000 SE 131k miles. MTX if that would matter:help:
 
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I don't know about a knock but definately a rattle ... maybe there are some stone stick behind it being knocked around ...
 
Take a video of it if you can, too.

Sounds like you hit the resonate frequency of something lose or out of spec in that RPM range. Could be just about anything really, without hearing the noise itself, how deep it is, if it sounds like metal to metal, metal to aluminum, etc.
 
I had this problem. Or something similar. It was the heat shield under the passenger seat that was coming loose. So when I would go done the road it would rattle when I was taking off. I didn't really hear it from under the hood though.

I just ripped it off. No more rattlin.
 
I thought about that but with the noise being gone, it was a good idea. Peice of mind now.
 
I've let the car run for about 15 minutes and the floor board still isn't hot. So I don't see any thing wrong with ripping it off.
 
99SE said:
I've let the car run for about 15 minutes and the floor board still isn't hot. So I don't see any thing wrong with ripping it off.
Click to expand...

No big deal. Don't park in tall grass and you'l be fine.
 
Hard to tell, but the knock does go away on deceleration. Like I said before, it is only when giving it gas, and between 2250, and maybe just above 2750 rpms. If below that range, no knock, if above it it is hard to tell due to the trubendz :D
 
$20 says a rod bearing.

You can hear as the engine settles down from the rev.. sounds almost like a diesel engine.. (tock tock tock). Something in that block has a blown bearing and it now has play in it.

It's possible it's up in the valve train but that is definately a major hardware problem.
 
oh joy. :blackeye: Kinda what I was under the impression it was too. At this point should I just have the bad bearing replaced or do the WHOLE lowerhalf rebuild? Or find a used engine and do a swap? I had HOPED to have $2000 to work with, but now am down to about a grand. Limited options now.
 
I am a huge fan of replacing engines with complete stock engines out of the junkyard. Most engine's that get 'rebuilt' fail faster than the stock build of said engine did. A lot of it has to do with a particular builder not being familiar with the engine you are requesting to be built. Sure they know the all around process, but many engines require special attention. Also, some aftermarket parts you would put in it will not have the right clearance or research done on it to know how it will hold up in the long run.

Anyway... If it were me, I would simply replace the engine. If you are mechanically inclined in the least, you could get a Haynes manual for the car, an engine hoist from the store *$150*, jackstands, a jack, tools, etc and do it yourself. Sure it sounds like a lot of money, but you will gain the experience and have the tools left over for other projects... not to mention it will be cheaper than paying for the labor to have someone else do it.

Just my thought and my look on life. I tore the engine out of this mystique I just bought because it blew a headgasket and seized. It's not that hard to do. Anyway, seek out a competent shop and have someone who knows a thing or two take a look at it and see what he (or she) tells you. You may have to pay 80bux for the diagnosis but if they back you up and say it's a bearing at least you have a good idea what it is and they will tell you the labor to fix it. You can decide at that point what to do.

my thoughts. (a guess over the internet does not make it so... I could be wrong and it could be a dead squirel that climbed into your intake and is banging around in cylinder 2 for all I know... :) )
 
that sounds pretty similar to the sounds from ctmystiques engine and why he is replacing it at this time, although we never confirmed where the noise is coming from the engine wouldn't stay running and knocked like that .... sorry ....
 
we have a certified master mechanic at my work, I took it to him last night and he agreed with the blown rod bearing. He told me for $250 labor (because we are co-workers) he'd either swap the motor (I have to find one) or he'd replace the mains,crank,rod bearings, and all associated gaskets. Funny thing was, he immediatly asked me about a 3L swap! LOL, then asked about the LS6 motor. Now I need a good source for an engine in lower Michigan.
 
Michigan is FULL of junkyards.

Also check www.car-part.com to locate engines near you. When I looked here in indiana, they were everywhere. Tons of these cars exist.

$250 labor is a good deal so long as dude does a solid job. I would try to go with a fresh motor personally as you do not know what kind of damage may have been done to clearances on your current crank, etc. Could be out of round JUST enough to cause problems again. Also, bearing material doesn't just go away.. who knows if it got sucked into the oil pickup and made it past the filter or is messing up other oil passages. Just my 2 cents. I am not ASE certified and am only giving you my opinions based on personal exp.
 
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