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yup

How many miles on the springs? The ones I swapped from the Contour had about 52k miles and they sit perfect. I did check with Steve at tousley and iirc new springs were about $100 for the rear.

That is for both, right? I don't remember how many miles but IRCC they were under 100K (I want to say between 50-75K)
 
That is for both, right? I don't remember how many miles but IRCC they were under 100K (I want to say between 50-75K)

I expect you'll be fine. Rust is the enemy when it comes to springs, so if they're pretty clean, they should sit ok. My springs are original and my car sits perfectly. There is no rust on the car.
 
Oh, and be sure to clean out your bearings when you remove the mounts. You can always replace them, but you may be able to salvage the ones in there.
 
Oh, and be sure to clean out your bearings when you remove the mounts. You can always replace them, but you may be able to salvage the ones in there.

At the rate I am going, I think I am just going to bring it in to have it done. I have never swapped out a suspention before and I don't know if i want to after reading about it on here. :laugh:
 
At the rate I am going, I think I am just going to bring it in to have it done. I have never swapped out a suspention before and I don't know if i want to after reading about it on here. :laugh:

Can't say as I blame you, particularly since it's not yet warm out, and if you're doing this in your driveway, it would be nasty going.
 
At the rate I am going, I think I am just going to bring it in to have it done. I have never swapped out a suspention before and I don't know if i want to after reading about it on here. :laugh:

The rear ones are super easy though! Considerably easier than the front if you ask me :)
 
Can't say as I blame you, particularly since it's not yet warm out, and if you're doing this in your driveway, it would be nasty going.

I think I would do them at my freinds garage. He has an Acetylene torch if I just want to burn the whole thing up. :laugh: If the rear ones are easy, then I might just do that. I need to take the rear bumper off anywhos to try and repair and paint part of it, and fix the sag....and while I am under there I should replace the brake pads. :crazy: Maybe I should have them just do the fronts at the shop.
 
I think I would do them at my freinds garage. He has an Acetylene torch if I just want to burn the whole thing up. :laugh: If the rear ones are easy, then I might just do that. I need to take the rear bumper off anywhos to try and repair and paint part of it, and fix the sag....and while I am under there I should replace the brake pads. :crazy: Maybe I should have them just do the fronts at the shop.

For what it's worth, the front's aren't all that bad, though some of it is a pisser. You can pull the entire assembly out without removing the axle nut -- after removing the pinch bolt on the strut, the tie rod end and ball joint come out of the knuckle. This will give you enough clearance, and the strut and spring come southward. You'll need a spring compressor to remove and install the mounts, though.

The question will really be: do you have the patience to bother? If not, have the shop do it.

And since you'll have the car in the air, do pads and rotors if necessary at whatever ends you end up working on. I did front brakes when the BAT alignment kit went in.
 
For what it's worth, the front's aren't all that bad, though some of it is a pisser. You can pull the entire assembly out without removing the axle nut -- after removing the pinch bolt on the strut, the tie rod end and ball joint come out of the knuckle. This will give you enough clearance, and the strut and spring come southward. You'll need a spring compressor to remove and install the mounts, though.

The question will really be: do you have the patience to bother? If not, have the shop do it.

And since you'll have the car in the air, do pads and rotors if necessary at whatever ends you end up working on. I did front brakes when the BAT alignment kit went in.


I also figured that since it will need an alignment when it was done, just take it in to begin with.
 
For what it's worth, the front's aren't all that bad, though some of it is a pisser. You can pull the entire assembly out without removing the axle nut -- after removing the pinch bolt on the strut, the tie rod end and ball joint come out of the knuckle. This will give you enough clearance, and the strut and spring come southward. You'll need a spring compressor to remove and install the mounts, though.

True... Maybe I'm a bit biased because on one side the pinch bolt rounded off, the other I broke it :blackeye: Ended up drilling out the broken one and welding a wrench to the rounded off one (also broke the wrench and proceeded to weld a bigger piece of steel) and pounded on that whole apparatus with the BFH to spin that bolt out :laugh:

Your results may vary though, the Contour fronts and rears came out painlessly :)
 
True... Maybe I'm a bit biased because on one side the pinch bolt rounded off, the other I broke it :blackeye: Ended up drilling out the broken one and welding a wrench to the rounded off one (also broke the wrench and proceeded to weld a bigger piece of steel) and pounded on that whole apparatus with the BFH to spin that bolt out :laugh:

Your results may vary though, the Contour fronts and rears came out painlessly :)

The mention of the BFH is always amusing. :laugh:
 
What? Those rotors won't come off? Let me at them.........:laugh:

We had a mechanic at the Ford dealer I worked at years ago (he may still be there) that was known for taking a sledge to anything that wouldn't come free. You'd see him under the car taking full swings at stuff -- if he missed, he would have taken out fuel lines, brake lines, tie rods, you name it. It was not easy to watch.
 
We had a mechanic at the Ford dealer I worked at years ago (he may still be there) that was known for taking a sledge to anything that wouldn't come free. You'd see him under the car taking full swings at stuff -- if he missed, he would have taken out fuel lines, brake lines, tie rods, you name it. It was not easy to watch.
Geez, doesn't that guy know that is what one handed sledges are for?

I love hammer.
Are you just looking around the room, seeing things and saying you love them...or is that how you really feel.
I love hammer....I lover hammer
 
and who says fieros arent safe!

check this out guys, this guy have the front of his car ran OVER by a semi!

pics are part way down the page

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/070174.html

pretty insane wreck!

them old fiero drivers just need to pay more attention when they drive. :laugh: I always make sure when i am pulling out to look both ways and make darn sure that all oncoming traffice is slowing down or stopped. Semi's have a very bad habbit on 53 to just blow their horn and keep on going threw red lights. :nonono: If someone isn't paying attention, one of these times someone is going to get killed, and I don't want it to be me.

Oh yeah, that will buff out. Might need a PC though.
 
them old fiero drivers just need to pay more attention when they drive. :laugh: I always make sure when i am pulling out to look both ways and make darn sure that all oncoming traffice is slowing down or stopped. Semi's have a very bad habbit on 53 to just blow their horn and keep on going threw red lights. :nonono: If someone isn't paying attention, one of these times someone is going to get killed, and I don't want it to be me.

Oh yeah, that will buff out. Might need a PC though.

actually, i think last year someone did die when a semi slammed into them on 53. granted there was fog, but still (thinking about it more, the semi migh have been the one pulling out.)

i agree though, doesnt matter if you have the right away, ALWAYS check both ways before leaving an intersection!

the car took the impact pretty well though, and to say he got away with a few bumps and bruises says quite a bit. i cant imagine how scary though that would have been.
 
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