damn it you are smart..... so, just use my baer kit because it is easy to get parts and because I have no more stopping power in the wilwood 6 pot than I do with the baer 2 pot?
There are plenty of reasons to go to multi-piston calipers, but "stopping power" isn't one of them. There are 3 things that affect "stopping power" from a brake standpoint, 1st is pad to rotor friction coefficient, this is is affected by pad material choice obviously. 2nd is piston force. This is controlled by the ratio of the caliper piston area to the master cylinder piston area, and the mechanical pedal ratio, and how hard you push on the pedal. If you increase caliper piston area compared to stock, you actually DECREASE the potential piston force. And the third one is the effective rotor radius. Basically the distance from the axle centerline to the geometric center of the brake pad area. Increasing rotor diameter increases the lever arm, so the same friction force will resort in higher brake torque.
You'll notice that "piston count" isn't among any of these factors . . .
I like the willies because no one else really has the 6 pot wilwood on their tours.... maybe I will rock one of each :shrug:
I'm not a fan of the Wilwood 6-piston calipers. First, for a street car, they don't come with dustboots. Which is fine for a race car or a show car, but for the typical user here, they don't disassmble and inspect thier brakes very often. Also, they have a finite life, at some point, they will age enough through fatigue that they will need to be basically thrown away. And finally, if you ever overheat them really good, they need to go in the trash too.
Bottom line, is it just plain isn't designed to be a street caliper, so its not great at it. Its designed to be used in a racing environment where its inspected often, and replaced at the first sign of trouble.
P.S. why the longer wheel studs? My baer kit was on other tours with standard wheel studs. I thought you only needed those if you had wheel to caliper clearance issues???
Your lugnuts should thread down on the studs at least 1.5 times the diameter of the stud to ensure a solid safe joint. Even with the FSVT rotor upgrade, you can't quite get that amount of thread engagement. Do a search, and see which studs that beyondloaded used on his old car, I think they are a Mazda wheel stud, and are only like $1 each from your local Napa or aurozone. Cheap insurance on an extremely critical component. No real need to go to some high dollar ARP wheel stud if you don't want to.
) because that maintains the OEM brake bias when combined with 13" fronts. He said he hasn't sold that many of the rear kits. People only upgrading their front brakes are weird.
