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Stage 2 will be more for your 2.5 liter motors that have diamond pistons or aftermarket pistons with lower compression. The 2.5 liter motor will not handle the power a stage 2 will provide since the pistons ringland are to weak plus the CR will limit also. The 3 liter will need the stage 2 since the motor needs more air due to the displacement.

You did bring up a good point I just thought about The stage 1 will have the smaller intercooler smaller injectors with all the hardware minus the headers. But if you want headers it will be extra for them added to the kit like SS piping will. Because even though you get the headers for the 2.5 liter the other parts will not need to be changed. When I dyno the car we will see what gains we get for doing so.

The 3 liter will need the stage 2 kits or if you do not plan on going over 300whp then you can stick with the stage 1 but might want to buy the larger intercooler anyways for little extra money. Other companies on the internet like to sell stages personally I hate the terms because you can upgrade the kit yourself period. See I can be like ADC was and sell the T28 as a stage kit but why do that to the CEG's because you can't upgrade the turbo without upgrading flanges pipes intakes etc. My kit will be bolt on upgrades all you have to do is swap out wheels in the turbo to get more power and the fuel mangement parts and of course the intercooler too.

For those who want to later on pop in some pauter rods and aftermarket pistons can do just like me and buy the HiFI turbo good for 600hp+ or those who want the dyno queen or strictly race and wants to run race gas go for it.

So basically any 2.5 liter or 3 liter can run the inexpensive kits and buy the larger intercooler later or buy the stage 2 parts afterwards for hardly nothing. Now if you change to the larger 80mm or change injectors afterwards you will need to pay a discounted price again on a modified tune.

If you buy a kit from us we will retune your car again if you are modding it for a discounted price regardless if it is turbo related and of course you have our tune already too.

Well I am going pick up some metal piping and flat bar to build my jig and stands. Thanks Guys
 
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shizapooh said:
what if we have a 3L will there be a option for a bigger intercooler or will we upgrade it on or own if you dont upgrade the intercooler in stage 2?
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I think we can speculate, but really we need to take it one step at a time.
We'll get the stage1 working first. Then we'll look at all the issues that bar running more power from that kit and those will be addressed to become the stage2 kit soon after.
This way we aren't putting the cart before the horse. We can build on earlier successes so we aren't wasting money chasing phantom HP goals or trying to satisfy everyones spur of the moment whims.

I'm envisioning a stage1 kit that has what you need to bolt up to your car, run moderate boost and be reliable. Basically it will bring the power output of the SVT into the norm and even beyond what is seen in the current decade. I think this is what the majority of the owners are looking for. What good is a kit that makes a ****load of power costs an arm and a leg and doesn't last or doesn't drive right?
Going outside the bounds of this kit will be on you the buyer. If you don't want to wait and want more you can feel free to do it yourself. On the other hand, you can wait as we progress to the next stage after the first one is up and running.
I'm guessing we will have to finish just the stage 1 and sell the sets on the group buy so we can finance the parts and equipment necessary to flesh out stage2 upgrades.
Remember a few simple part changes may be all that is necessary to support a 3L on the stage1 setup.
 
question:


I am wondering what stage would be more legit for my SVT. I'm sure there are others in the same boat w/ just intake and exhaust mods. So far mods that I know are on the car are Pro Flow 75mm MAF and I have WR Headers and Y that I have yet to put on and I will be getting a Trubendz cat back. Now I have no idea if the previous owner did anything else engine wise or drive train wise b/c I bought it used from a dealer and I can't tear everything apart to take a look.

For the WR headers and Y so does this mean I have to go stage 2? Could you go Stage 2 and lower the boost so that it would still be more than stage 1 but I could raise the PSI later if/when I got the supporting parts to do so?

I would like to utilize these mods and make the most/safest horsepower gains as possible to my SVT. I will not be drag racing or auto Xing or anything of that nature. Just some occasional spirited driving. Basically I just want a quick..er DD. It would be really nice to be able to hang w/ or be quciker than newer cars like the EVO or the STI's.
 
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yamaha racer 686 said:
can there be like i dunno a monthly payment system?

just wondering?
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I highly doubt they would do anything like that, at least I hope they wouldn't! :blackeye: Go to the bank and get a loan, or wait until you have enough saved! I know I wouldn't sell something expensive over the internet to people I don't know and hope that one day they will pay me back...
 
Reebs said:
I highly doubt they would do anything like that, at least I hope they wouldn't! :blackeye: Go to the bank and get a loan, or wait until you have enough saved! I know I wouldn't sell something expensive over the internet to people I don't know and hope that one day they will pay me back...
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I don't know...Joey and Tom...you could check with Wells Fargo finance...a lot of shops finance things through them...I don't know what the req are though...just an idea.
 
yeah that would be what im talking about i just cant pay 2800 at once. as long as i can pay in payments ill wait till i pay it all off till i get the product.
 
yamaha racer 686 said:
yeah that would be what im talking about i just cant pay 2800 at once. as long as i can pay in payments ill wait till i pay it all off till i get the product.
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Your best bet, is to pay yourself. Put some money aside each month, into a savings account. This will teach you discipline, to not touch that money until you have the ~$2800 you need to buy the kit. It's a very rewarding feeling, to save for what you want. Atleast YOU'LL be the one gaining interest off of your own money, as opposed to someone else making interest off of it. :cool:

Mark
 
Yeah pricing will be between 2300.00 to 2800.00 I need to make something for my time and efforts but either way you will get a great price on a great kit. The xcal2 will be a big deciding factor on the price since it will cost nearly half the Turbo. The big money is in the turbo and pipes and then the xcal2 and intercooler are close in price. When you start adding clamps silicone hoses, oil drains, fittings, flanges, bolts etc it really adds up fast. Especailly when you start using all SS 304 the price nearly doubles in price on metals.

My biggest goal is to keep the price low so everyone can buy one even with first time credit card buyers but not to sell cheap parts and has reliabilty issues. I don't want to be on the phone all day trying to fix problems with the kits I rather be spending my time building more of them. But between me and Tom we can address all of the issues that come about if any at all.

Things are coming along as planned the car and motor will be here in three days. I should have up-pipes mocked up by weekend I have the shop up and going yesterday with all the equipment needed for the hard bends and welds. Oh I recalling that the early 96 -98 have two bolt flanges for CAT's and three bolts later I am more likely going to sell the three bolt stronger and better. What I will do is send the guys who don't have three bolt flanges two extra flanges and get you to go get it welded on by a muffler shop prior to the install so you can adpat right up to the flange plus if you ever sell your car you can remove the kit put on the stock Y pipe and keep the kit.

Oh about the financing sure I will take payments but of course the kit will be shipped when paid in full too. I will talk to some fianance companies here later on to see if there are no interest loans or so for ya'll to apply for. thanks Joey
 
I think that if people can make payments, it will open up the amount of people that will buy this kit. If one is in college, "normally" a college student cant shell out 2,800 at one time. So the payments may help the sales out, but I agree with of CEGers that you should really try to save now, and then when they are ready to sell you can buy your kit straight up. I'm putting about 2k away from my taxes just to be prepared.....uhh I cant wait
 
There is probably a lot of ppl in this same boat w/ just intake, headers, and exhaust mods.

teamSVTour said:
question:


I am wondering what stage would be more legit for my SVT. I'm sure there are others in the same boat w/ just intake and exhaust mods. So far mods that I know are on the car are Pro Flow 75mm MAF and I have WR Headers and Y that I have yet to put on and I will be getting a Trubendz cat back. Now I have no idea if the previous owner did anything else engine wise or drive train wise b/c I bought it used from a dealer and I can't tear everything apart to take a look.

For the WR headers and Y so does this mean I have to go stage 2? Could you go Stage 2 and lower the boost so that it would still be more than stage 1 but I could raise the PSI later if/when I got the supporting parts to do so?

I would like to utilize these mods and make the most/safest horsepower gains as possible to my SVT. I will not be drag racing or auto Xing or anything of that nature. Just some occasional spirited driving. Basically I just want a quick..er DD. It would be really nice to be able to hang w/ or be quciker than newer cars like the EVO or the STI's.
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The only way that a Payment Plan could work, is if you made payments, and recieved the kit once it is paid in full. I don't think these guys should do it any other way (as in a deposit, then send kit, and you mak payments) There is too much to risk, and too many people that are "unknowns" on the boards, and they would just be setting themselves up for hassle.
 
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