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Which motor oil to use

you also gotta remember... i went to amsoil from Mobil1. so to make a noticible difference pretty much says something.
As for the price... honestly i dont mind spending slightly more money(but i pay dealer price, not retail.) i mean, you dont have to change it nearly as often so IMO it pays for its self. and it runs better than i have ever used.

And for csvt2200 as for the filter Doyle is right, there is a high grade media for the filter. Just like air filters, there are different quality. For example, you can buy a throw away autozone filter or a K&N high flow filter. So my special filter.. i mean the amsoil filter needed for the long life of the oil.

I was referred to Amsoil by a buddy of mine who drives a M3. Had it since new and runs nothing but amsoil. i dont remember what year it is, but it has 190k and runs like its literally brand new. he does 2 oil changes a YEAR and has never had his motor rebuilt. He has had it looked at by BMW dealerships and they find nothing wrong with it and say its one of the best running car at the milage thats been in the shop. one said they thought the odometer was over counting because he was amazed the way it ran.. but its not
 
CRGkart44 said:
I was referred to Amsoil by a buddy of mine who drives a M3. Had it since new and runs nothing but amsoil. i dont remember what year it is, but it has 190k and runs like its literally brand new. he does 2 oil changes a YEAR and has never had his motor rebuilt. He has had it looked at by BMW dealerships and they find nothing wrong with it and say its one of the best running car at the milage thats been in the shop. one said they thought the odometer was over counting because he was amazed the way it ran.. but its not
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190k isnt worth bragging about really. My old 626 had 250k on it and never saw synthetic oil because it wasnt recommended back then and still had factory spec compression when I sold it. And even thats pretty young compared to other folks who have put on way more miles with regular oil changes.
 
AHAHAHA..... nice job compairing a mazda 626 to a BMW M3... i mean they are totally similar. for a high performance M3 engine with 190k running perfect with out the motor gone through is worth bragging about. hmmm... how often did you change the oil on the mazda, every 3-5k? what about your filter... every oil change or ever other change?
 
Oh boy i cant believe i am going to even ask this question. well here goes.
As we all know there is a lot of hipe over high priced oil's such as Amsoil and Royal Purple.
i was bored one night and read things about Amsoil along with videos. i think it was just customer videos of a before and after, but showing how Amsoil freed and or silenced sticky lifters. Is this really even in reality? I have always put Castrol Syntech in my SVT. But i am about to change it and decided i don't need full synth so i am just going to buy motorcraft. The one nice thing about full synth is i have not changed it in over 6 months. But it only has like 2.5k on that oil change.
 
Big Jim said:
Either exceed the need so far that you should find something else to loose sleep over. You really don't need anything better than Motorcraft semi synthetic 5W30 (or even 5W20).
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well stated ,we have a couple of running jokes at work one is; don't over analyze it .and the other is; GF-4 its all the same BTW-FWIW I use mobile 1 every 3000 w/a motorcraft filter in the tour and as of late have been using wallmart super tec in the wife's windstar
 
SVTJON87 said:
Oh boy i cant believe i am going to even ask this question. well here goes.
As we all know there is a lot of hipe over high priced oil's such as Amsoil and Royal Purple.
i was bored one night and read things about Amsoil along with videos. i think it was just customer videos of a before and after, but showing how Amsoil freed and or silenced sticky lifters. Is this really even in reality? I have always put Castrol Syntech in my SVT. But i am about to change it and decided i don't need full synth so i am just going to buy motorcraft. The one nice thing about full synth is i have not changed it in over 6 months. But it only has like 2.5k on that oil change.
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haha.. i know Amsoil is a little high priced, but its worth it because IMO it works the best. Im not sure about the sticky lifters becasue i havent ever haad a problem with that. but i dont see why not. If youre having a problem, its worth a shot. if it doesnt then youre back where you started with not loss. and then you just leave the oil in for the 25k or what ever it says on the bottle
 
CRGkart44 said:
AHAHAHA..... nice job compairing a mazda 626 to a BMW M3... i mean they are totally similar. for a high performance M3 engine with 190k running perfect with out the motor gone through is worth bragging about. hmmm... how often did you change the oil on the mazda, every 3-5k? what about your filter... every oil change or ever other change?
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My high output turbo engine probably abused the oil more than the M3 engine ever did so it was a valid comparison. Both my Mazdas got oil changes every 5000 miles even though the HDEO stuff I was using was rated for much longer.

SVTJON87 said:
i think it was just customer videos of a before and after, but showing how Amsoil freed and or silenced sticky lifters. Is this really even in reality? I have always put Castrol Syntech in my SVT. But i am about to change it and decided i don't need full synth so i am just going to buy motorcraft. The one nice thing about full synth is i have not changed it in over 6 months. But it only has like 2.5k on that oil change.
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Its a very good possibility actually. When you change oils you're changing to a different set of oil additives, some of which may do a better job at cleaning a deposit thats making a lifter stick. MC is a great oil at a great price that is recommended all the time.
 
Dyoel182 said:
My high output turbo engine probably abused the oil more than the M3 engine ever did so it was a valid comparison. Both my Mazdas got oil changes every 5000 miles even though the HDEO stuff I was using was rated for much longer.
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well... lets look at price. your mazda your oil lets say you pay 3 bucks a quart with 5 quarts and 5 bucks a oil filter. your car would have had about 50 oil changes. 750 for oil and 250 for filters $1000. Lets say the M3 had 250 just for a compairson. the iol we use is $9 a quart(again 5 quarts for compairson) and 15 a filter. if we change the oil every 25k with 250k on the clock thats 10 oil changes. thats 450 for oil and 150 for filters. thats $600 total. so right now i would say Amsoil has the advantage.

Now, blah blah blah, you have "perfect" compression or what ever. did you check that yourself or have you had it checked by a mazda dealer. The M3 has been professionally checked out and has been given a 100% clean bill of health.

so if you use amsoil you would really be saving money becasue you wouldnt be changing it as often and its a cleaner oil with more performance. i cant see why you wouldnt use amsoil.
 
What does price of the oil have to do with how the engine held up after 250k miles? Also dont forget that BMWs use more than 5 quarts of oil and that some of them naturally use up a quart of oil between changes that you may or may not choose to replace.
 
i talked about price to show that a full synthetic oil and a filter(at least Amsoil) is cheaper than standard motor oil and a standard filter. i also dont care how much oil the M3 takes. i used the same amount of quarts to make an EQUAL compairson.as for the BMW usign oil... you should always have a spare quart in your trunk anyways.

cheaper is better, esp these days. When you can get a cheaper over all product that works a lot better(better gas milage, smoother running, cleaner... etc) why not go for it. yeah you have to pay more right from the get go, but the second oil change no only will you have a better running car but you will be money a head
 
Dyoel182 said:
Its a very good possibility actually. When you change oils you're changing to a different set of oil additives, some of which may do a better job at cleaning a deposit thats making a lifter stick. MC is a great oil at a great price that is recommended all the time.
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yea i figured that was the case with additives. If i try it i just hope it doesn't clean deposits that could be sealing my gaskets.:crazy: but my guess would be that with 10k of full synth i might not have any junk sealing my gaskets anyway. (i have a small leak on the timing cover)
 
CRGkart44 said:
i talked about price to show that a full synthetic oil and a filter(at least Amsoil) is cheaper than standard motor oil and a standard filter.
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It all depends on how much you drive and what price you get the oil at. Here is the quote from Amsoil: "At current gas prices, switching to AMSOIL is probably the single best investment you can make for your vehicle. Suppose your vehicle gets 20 mpg. If gas is $3.50 per gallon, you are paying 17.5 cents per mile. If you drive 25,000 miles per year, your fuel bill is a staggering $4,375.00. By switching to AMSOIL and obtaining a 5% increase in fuel economy, your vehicle should now get 21 mpg. You would then be paying 16.7 cents per mile. After 25,000 miles, your fuel bill would be $4,175.00, a savings of $200.00. Combine that with the fact that you would only need 1 oil change at a cost of about $65 (includes 6 quarts of ASL 5W-30 AMSOIL motor oil and a 25,000 mile AMSOIL EA oil filter), versus 8 oil changes using conventional oil and filters at a cost of about $25 each, you would save another $135, for a total savings of $335 per year. And you have the added piece of mind that your engine is protected by the best oil available (AMSOIL has the test results to prove it)."

Now here is where the math comes in for someone like myself. That 5% fuel economy boost can be had after changing your dirty oil out for fresh so toss that out if you want. Now I drive way less than 25,000 a year so I'll always hit the 1 year drain period first. You can get yourself an oil change special (5 quarts and a filter) at any chain for less than $10 so lets say thats 5000 miles or 6 months. Now a jug of the good stuff and a good filter from walmart is more like $15 and thats fine. Even three oil changes still puts you at $45-50 which is less than the $65 that Amsoil quotes. Of course thats not for people using Mobil 1 or another synthetic that costs more than a good synth blend.

Now if you wanna be even trickier you can do what I do and find good specials with good mail in rebates. Every year you can to the O'Reillys rebate on Pennzoil and get it for about 30 cents a quart all said and done. So thats 24 bottles or 4 oil changes in the SVT which is more than I'll ever use in a year.
 
okay. so lets say you drive 15,000 miles a year which is fairly average i guess. so thats three oil changes with standard oil. ill use the same situation i used earlier to do this.(5 qts at $3 a qt with $5 filter) it comes out to $60. Amsoil comes out to $61. I would much rather spend the 1 or 2 bucks extra for a better oil and it makes it more simple when you have to do it once that year as opposed to 3 times.

IDK where you get $10 for an oil change at a chain. http://www.hoffman-development.com/content/jiffy-lube-8.cfm?killnav=1... thats with out coupons of course... but no where near 10 bucks. and way more than going with Amsoil and doing it yourself.
http://www.monro.com/Albany/Albany-oil-change.html?gclid=CKem_oCGn5gCFQikHgodBFlBlg... again.. a limited time coupon with at 2.25 recycling fee... so it somes to $21.25...then time that by 3. so thats close to amsoil... but a much muhc lower grade oil.
 
ok question about the oil weight. I read in a different thread here on CEG that 10w-30 was the way to go (i live in GA) but now everyone is saying 5w-30 or 20 again. whats the deal with that?
 
5W30

Even 5W20 is proper.

This engine was designed for 5W30. 5W30 provides better flow and resulting lubrication during warm-up, where most wear happens.

And in the future, thinner oils are coming.
 
we are having problem with bearing being spun on the turbo cars and I am thinking of adding the mazda 6 oil pump for higher volume to support the additional component just like they did on the VVT system and mayb this will cure the problem. Plus I think we should be putting the tri-metal bearing for more forgiveness to because I had three motors with less then 30k mile spin bearing in less then 10k miles on them. And a oil cooler is a must on turbo cars to keep the oil from breaking down. Once Crewchief get his bad engine torn down I can see what the bearings look like on the top ring versus the bottom. I suspect the top like my old engine will be worn very badly and the bottom none backing up my idea we are using to thin of oil with high power cars. Joey
 
so what are you suggesting we use for an oil weight on turbo cars? 10w40? 10w50? straight 30 or the 0w-40?
 
crewchiefpro said:
Here is some thing we do on the race car, get a filter magnet. www.filtermag.com Simple and effective. I will get one when the new 3.0 is ready for sure...
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Simple yes. Effective not really. The amount of moly you're gonna pull out with the filter is insignificant and really not beneficial.

BrApple said:
so what are you suggesting we use for an oil weight on turbo cars? 10w40? 10w50? straight 30 or the 0w-40?
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My turbo cars loved the turbo diesel 15w-40 stuff but that was also an engine from the late 80s.
 
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