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What sub is for me?

BigBEN

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jul 20, 2006
Messages
3,146
Location
Cleveland Institute of Music, OH
Hey All...I really dont know too much about Sub's or car audio for that matter. Anyways, I am looking for a sub that hits very quickly and would be good for rock music with lots of double bass. I dont want a huge boom, just something that will pick up all the double bass, not just the big booms in it. I was thinking nothing bigger than a 10"

any suggestions? What amp too?

Thanks

_Ben
 
Hey All...I really dont know too much about Sub's or car audio for that matter. Anyways, I am looking for a sub that hits very quickly and would be good for rock music with lots of double bass. I dont want a huge boom, just something that will pick up all the double bass, not just the big booms in it. I was thinking nothing bigger than a 10"

any suggestions? What amp too?

Thanks

_Ben

Price kind of matters :)
 
Holley roller has a jl 500x1 in the classifieds
good amp for a single 10
 
I like the Dayton Reference series subs as good options for sound quality oriented installs.
 
JL Audio makes the best subwoofers on the market with Infinity a close 2nd. I suggest going to Crutchfield.com and picking out 2 12-inch subwoofers, put them in a sealed box, and power it with a Rockford Fosgate amplifier. Rockford Fosgate makes the best amplifiers on the market. Here's the website: http://www.crutchfield.com/

If I was putting this system together, this is what I would pick:

Subwoofers (2 of these): http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=520&i=13612W1V24&c=3&tp=111&avf=N

Amplifier: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=575P5502&c=3&tp=115&avf=N

Sealed Box: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=178650&i=044QLH12D2&c=3&tp=127&avf=N

I will tell you that quality sound systems doesn't come cheap. Be prepared to invest some serious money. If the components are wisely picked and installed correctly, the payoff is HUGE!!! I can't stress enought to do extensive research on this stuff before you invest. Crutchfield has everything you need to perform your research before you make a sound decision. Good luck!;)
 
Personally,

I think the requirements of having a good setup is

#1. The amp. You cant have a fast reacting, loud system without having a good amp. ANd the amp is usually a slight bit more expensive no matter what you get, and it should be, because it is the heart of the sound. So get a nice one. And Im not sayin do a 5 channel all-in-one amp to save a couple bucks. Each AMP in your ride should have a purpose. And if that purpose is to add a sub, you should get a Mono, or a 2 channel amp specifically to pump watts, because if youre gonna get a nice top-of-the-line sub, most of them with thier huge magnets, and large rubber surrounds require some juice to play in the sweet spot.

And its better made usually, in the upper class, so it wont overheat and shut down in 110 degree summer days, in your trunk, when your rolling the lakes, and your favorite song is on, and youre kickin back with your friends ala mind numbing Pantera song number 6, you don't want that thing to shut down at volume 24. lol.

#2. The box. The box should be one of an enclosure to meet your needs.
If you want that fast, quick, bass, you should go sealed. If you want the deep boom and play some frequencies a lil louder, go ported. But you said you like rock, music, go sealed.

#3. The sub is last. Truthfully, you can buy a cheap arse sub and still get great results. But if you dont have a nice AMP, and back that up with a well made box, thats suited to your music, Its not gonna react as quick, and be as loud.

Screw the 10"...you need two 10's to give you that kick. You need one 12" to give you the same effect IMO.

Diss me on this list I dont care, but really, If you want a good system, this is the order of most importance to me anyway. Because if you buy a sweet sub, the amp will be the weakest link, but never vise versa. Cause like Im sayin, you can have a crap sub, in a nice sealed box, and it will still sound very decent.

my 2 cents. Just make sure you get a AMP that is in the OHM specification you need to match the sub to play max at 4 ohms, or max at 2 ohms. Its your choice. PPI's usually play max at 4 ohms bridged.

I believe those mono JL audio amps play max at 2 ohms bridged.

a couple great subs that I personally like for example are:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-SWR-1242...ryZ18803QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

^ dont buy that one, its used,....just an example, Ebay usually has 12"'s usually for 144.00 shipped reconditioned.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kick...017QQitemZ270185879781QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-2007-...ryZ18803QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

^^This one is an aluminum cone^^, the titanium cone one is a lil more expensive but its worth it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-JL-AUDIO-12...ryZ18803QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


If I had to choose, I'd say the L7, or alpine type-r,
 
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JL Audio makes the best subwoofers on the market with Infinity a close 2nd.
they are deffinetly average but FAR from the best.

check out Fi, RE, Stereo integrity, IDmaxx, Audioque, just to name a few.



fordsvt98 said:
Screw the 10"...you need two 10's to give you that kick. You need one 12" to give you the same effect IMO.
this once again shows your ignorace, you do know that a single Digital Designs 10" sub has hit over 160db right?.. 2 10s are still going to be louder than 1 12 (assuming they are the same company/model) from the fact that 2 10s have more cone area.

a single 10 in a nice box with decent CLEAN power will give you enough bump for your average person.

and if you want sound quality you would NOT get a L7 or a Type R


Look into a single Fi Q 10, a stereo integrity mag 12, or a RE SE12, or even a IDmax 10 or 12, they are more expensive then any of the stuff listed above but you get what you pay for when you get into car audio.



oh and dont beleive anyone who says ported boxes sound like crap, a properly built ported box can still be as tight and clean as a sealed, with 100 times more output.
 
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ignorance lol. I know dude isn't talking loud he just wants some good bass, and wants to make a good choice. So maybe its good you peeked your lil head in here to show him some subs too.

And knocking JL audio what's wrong with you are you ignant or somethin' like OMG.

dude 3 of those you listed are made the same way. same basket, same magnet, same same. and that one... dd sub ....the 3500 is made like a earthquake magma.


and I guess its a personal choice when you talk about subs, cause someones gonna like brand x, when someone likes brand b...

So I just listed my personal choices, along with what I think is more important, the amp.
 
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1976 kraco house speaker

no seriously why dont you just go to mickey shorres and just get a cheap mtx sub and amp combo
it will serve its purpose and for what you wanna spend should work out just fine
 
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well first question is...

"what amp will you be using?"

cause we need to know what ohm sub you want. Whatever sub you choose make sure you match the ohms to your amp. Either make up your mind whether you want to play it bridged for most watts or stereo hookup.....

get a kicker comp VR 12" or 10" I would say...70 bucks. decent sound, wont break the bank.


http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-CVR12-D4...ryZ18803QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

or a cheap rockford 12"

or a MTX 7500

http://cgi.ebay.com/MTX-THUNDER-750...ryZ18803QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

or that alpine type-r...whats 130 bucks these days anyway.....2 new headlights? lol
 
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here's a set up you can live with :cool:

1002011mn8.jpg
 
I'll tell ya, you guys kill me the pic of that stang trunk is pure awesome design and great craftsmanship. Maybe the pic did not do it justice, but that ride is sweet I'll post the other pic's. (sorry about the blurring ones)

1002007ql0.jpg

V6 putting out 420HP
1002010du7.jpg

1002009hc7.jpg
 
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i'm not saying the car itself isn't nice, even if it isn't my taste. but that the trunk setup doesn't look that great. cheap subs and box, wires kinda all over (even if zip tied), I just think there are some things that could've been better executed.
 
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