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Very important LUK 07-137 clutch info.

blu_fuz

blu_fuz

New Member Classroom vulture
Joined
Sep 25, 2002
Messages
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Location
Waupun, WI
If you are planning on any power adders or a 3L swap, do not use the LUK clutch. I just got off the phone with LUK regarding their 07-137 clutch kits and the issues with them. They said if the car is not 100% stock, do not use their clutch kit. They will not be changing the failure points that we are experiencing. I told them that even some 3L swaps are only 20hp and 20tq over stock dyno numbers and he simply stated "it isn't designed for that much power increase" and that we are "abusing our cars, because of course they are a SVT"..... :rolleyes:



I also said that most every Contour/Cougar/Mystique owner is opting to use the 3L engine because it is cheaper to replace than the 2.5L and increases power. If LUK didn't fix or address these issues, then they will be pushed out of the market for this platform because eventually most everyone will have a 3L and/or some kind of power adder.


He just told me to use an aftermarket upgraded clutch kit.


Also said that the 1995-97 Contour's were the worst cars ever. Laughed after I told him mine was a 1995 and pushed the fact again that if I saw what he saw or knew what he knew, I would think the same. He used to work for Ford putting these cars together. He currently drives a 4cyl MTX post 98 Mystique. And, he is helping a buddy of his do a 3L swap on a SVT Contour. He comes off as a "let me talk, and you listen" kind of guy. Didn't really care what I had to say and had an excuse for everything I asked about. :shrug:




Here is the email I sent them, and the rest was phone conversation.

"An acquaintance of mine contacted you about the center spline of the clutch disc "letting go" on the SVT Ford Contour clutch kits 07-137. I tried calling your company and didn't get to talk to anyone about the issues, but I'm happy to see he got an email response and you seem to be knowledgeable on the platform.

I am a victim of this clutch failure. I'm not looking for compensation, I would like this information to be used to make your product better so we don't have to "drive on eggshells" hoping that the clutches stay together.

I installed your clutch kit with the pressure plate, throw out bearing, and clutch disc. These were brand new, in a Ford box, with Ford part numbers etched on it, and the LUK stamp on them as well. I figured getting the OEM FORD new old stock would be the safest way to go since people were having issues with the LUK Repset clutch discs. Noted problems were the center spline ripping loose from the clutch disc, and also the spring windows stretching open enough for the springs to pop out and tumble around in the transmission case. Most people are only getting 10-20,000 miles from the LUK Repset clutch kits.

Here are the pictures of the kit that failed:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f253/blu_fuz/For Sale/2-23-2011027.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f253/blu_fuz/1995 Contour SE 3L Build/newpics023.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f253/blu_fuz/1995 Contour SE 3L Build/newpics022.jpg

After only about 25,000 miles the spline ripped from the clutch disc under normal driving. I was up to about 30-35mph in 3rd gear and pushed on the gas while already in 3rd to get up to traffic speed. Accelerated like normal for a few seconds, then the RPMs shot up and I lost all clutch. Then all I got is a scraping noise with the clutch pedal let out. Pushed in it's quiet. There was very little wear on the clutch disc friction material. In the 2nd video you can see the pieces of plastic that I had in my hand, these were laying in the transmission case when I opened it up.


Here is the video of the clutch noise minutes after failure:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YB3bpDSrF0&feature=g-upl

Here is the video of the clutch disc damage to the spline after I removed the clutch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_tAp92qvXs&feature=g-upl

I still have this clutch disc that failed in my car, and I have another disc pulled from another car that was installed at the factory with unknown miles that shows signs of the spring windows opening up and the loose springs. I can mail these to you if it helps your company figure out what is going on.


Thanks for reading, hopefully we can figure this out. Thank you!



"The Clutch kit uses the same parts as the OE. I went through all of our calls and warranty claims for Kit 07-137 which fits your vehicle. I have not had one concern for which you are stating. When a center of the disc comes apart many times it’s the front bearing inside of the trans or dowel pins between the block and trans are missing or damaged. If you like feel free to call me.

Thank you

Brian Smith

Schaeffler Group USA
5370 Wegman Dr.
Valley City, OH 44280"
 
so he badmouths the contour buty hes driving one...and hes also helping in a 3L swap lmao!! ok so I was laying in bed and thought about a better stock clutch... hmmm 3Ls are autos so nothing available... maybe they make a clutch for the jag 3.0 or the noble m400
 
I wonder what exact clutch they are choosing for their 3L swap? I was afraid the 3L as compared to stock issue would be the answer.
 
I told him I have a factory installed LUK Ford clutch pulled from a stock SVT with no mods that has the spring windows popping open, he said the owner was probably beating on the car and he didn't need to see the clutch :nonono:.


I don't know the guy, but he puts himself out there as a "know it all" and really likes to hear himself talk about things he thinks he knows everything about.
 
It really is.... I don't know who put him in charge (if he is at all) but he isn't a people person :shrug:.


I don't think he knew who he was talking to :laugh:..... I've only had 23 of these damn cars! hahahahaha.
 
there is no recommended clutch for these cars besides spec and clutchnet.... however since the spec also have a rate of failure it might be because its based for the 2.5L aswell.

Im going to be intouch with the owner of Rossion cars to see what they used for the noblem400 which is a 3L TT on the mtx 75. Unfortunately the new rossion q1s use the getrag6 so we might be SOL trying to use those clutches.
 
there have been people that ripped the centers out with the 2.5's as well, so its not totally the 3L is the reason argument
 
jaged said:
there have been people that ripped the centers out with the 2.5's as well, so its not totally the 3L is the reason argument
Click to expand...

and there are still many using a stock clutch with a 3L and have not had an issue. As with SPEC I wonder about the materials and manufacturing location. Also there still could be something about the installs that are causing an issue, but we may never be able to find that information out.

Also at one point in time Luk made an upgraded clutch for the Contour. Of course that is long out of production.
 
jaged said:
there have been people that ripped the centers out with the 2.5's as well, so its not totally the 3L is the reason argument
Click to expand...


I said the same thing to this guy. His reply is, "they must have more hp than stock or they are beating on it" :nonono:.


There has to be some kind of manufacturing or material change from the factory installed units, to what we get from LUK now. These new ones are worse than the differentials made from butter in SVTs!
 
I'll just say what we're all really thinking....THE FORD CONTOUR IS A BEAST!!! NOTHING can hold the massive horsepowers!!
 
I wouldn't really expect any different from any other clutch manufacture. That said the center should not fail like it did for you.
 
RFcsvt said:
I'll just say what we're all really thinking....THE FORD CONTOUR IS A BEAST!!! NOTHING can hold the massive horsepowers!!
Click to expand...
:laugh:

This is why I haven't messed with the Spec 3+ I have in my car. It has been good for me (knock on wood) even though lots of other people reported issues.

I think a Clutchnet setup with a solid disk is the way to go if you want it to hold power, but I'm not sure the drivability would be that great. Although TRicker did run an unsprung disk for a while and IIRC he liked it.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
:laugh:

I think a Clutchnet setup with a solid disk is the way to go if you want it to hold power, but I'm not sure the drivability would be that great.
Click to expand...


^ you are probably right. Unsprung clutch disc has less failure points. I wonder how those rivits would handle a clutch drop/burnout with no springs to dampen the impact on the clutch? :ponder:


Unsure how it would be for DD, but probably good.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
:laugh:

This is why I haven't messed with the Spec 3+ I have in my car. It has been good for me (knock on wood) even though lots of other people reported issues.

I think a Clutchnet setup with a solid disk is the way to go if you want it to hold power, but I'm not sure the drivability would be that great. Although TRicker did run an unsprung disk for a while and IIRC he liked it.
Click to expand...

I just read a few of his comments recently and he didn't really seem to have complaints about it. I would give a solid hub a shot, it may take a little more attention while driving but that's not necessarily bad.

I have a feeling an axle would go before the rivets, maybe.
 
blu_fuz said:
^ you are probably right. Unsprung clutch disc has less failure points. I wonder how those rivits would handle a clutch drop/burnout with no springs to dampen the impact on the clutch? :ponder:
Click to expand...

I would be more concerned about axles and the mtx itself from shock loading. Lets not forget tricker beat the living •••• out of his car ...
 
^ true


I really think the clutchnet disc with the closed spring windows and sprung hub is really going to hold up nice. I don't know the internals of the disc, but it is physically better built looking than the LUK.
 
Have you guys or anyone else considered the 2003-05ish Mazda6 [duratech 3.0l v6 with 5spd] clutch kit as an alternative?
 
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