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swapping to gutted LIM....

yeah.... i can handle it anyways. i have a constant CEL for my MSD ignition so its all good. i'm having a little trouble, it doesnt want to idle when its cold. once it warms up for a minute or two, its just fine.
 
have u adjusted the fuel and timing curves through a tune? have u checked the dpfe. i am having the same issue with my 3L. but i have a port matched svt 3L with the lim gutted. i haven't driven the car in 2 yrs and probally need to retune it but thats whre ia m looking. also i am planning on swapping the 65mm tb and the 21# inj also
 
i never tuned it, i blew it up in a big water puddle.

i did fix the stalling issue, i had a small vaccum leak i just replaced the UIM gaskets and it went away. it only happened when it was cold..... i still prefer the SVT UIM with the gutted secondaries, it worked nicely and seemed to have the nicest high end curve.
 
TRicker said:
i never tuned it, i blew it up in a big water puddle.

i did fix the stalling issue, i had a small vaccum leak i just replaced the UIM gaskets and it went away. it only happened when it was cold..... i still prefer the SVT UIM with the gutted secondaries, it worked nicely and seemed to have the nicest high end curve.
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Ouch!!! Did i miss something? When did you blow it.:blackeye:
 
is someone willing to get their car on a dyno to test the different intake manifolds? i have a 3L split port on mine and i felt like it made a huge difference when i switched from the SVT intake. upper end power. i think i might get another one and gut the crap out of it like SicSe. SicSe do you have any dyno plots of that intake setup? i am really curious about it.
 
Interesting discussion. Exactly the answers I was looking for. Could you still make a conclusion of what`s the best thing to do in gutted secondaries with the Imrc hooked up vs gutted secondaries with no IMRC? I am not interested in low end torque and power, I only want the high end to pull strong. What would be the reccomended setup in this case? If I gut the secondaries, does the linkage can still pe connected to the LIM (but without the rods and butterflys) so I can have something to hook up the IMRC cable to?
 
peke350 said:
Could you still make a conclusion of what`s the best thing to do in gutted secondaries with the Imrc hooked up vs gutted secondaries with no IMRC?
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If you don't mind the CEL, and are looking for power & driveability down low, the best thing to do, given a gutted LIM, is leave the IMRC cable disonnected, (as noted by the dyno on the first page). If your priority is NOT having a CEL, the best thing to do is to hook the IMRC cable to a spring mechanism of some sort.

peke350 said:
I am not interested in low end torque and power, I only want the high end to pull strong. What would be the reccomended setup in this case?
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This answer will vary depending on who responds but I dont' think anyone has dyno-compared a gutted LIM to an in-tact LIM, to a bored or otherwise modified LIM on the same setup. However, as a generalization, top end is all about volume. Gutting the LIM gives you potential to flow a larger volume of air at higher RPMS. However, whether or not you actually flow more, depends on the variables associated with your particular setup.

peke350 said:
If I gut the secondaries, does the linkage can still pe connected to the LIM (but without the rods and butterflys) so I can have something to hook up the IMRC cable to?
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The rod & linkage that the IMRC cable connects to are one piece. So you would have to cut and reinstall the rod into the LIM if you wanted to still hook up the IMRC cable at that point but also wanted to gut your LIM. A better option IMO, if you're bent on keeping the IMRC cable hooked up, would be to just run the cable to a different spot & connect it to something to use as a spring mechanism. For example, when I had mine hooked up with my gutted LIM, I hooked the cable to a rubber band that I put around an A/C line. Simple, but effective.
 
Such a detailed reply. Thank you.
Noticed your sig. Whats wrong in there? Just 186 hp on a 3L? A stock SVT can make 195 or 200. Hmm..
 
peke350 said:
Such a detailed reply. Thank you.
Noticed your sig. Whats wrong in there? Just 186 hp on a 3L? A stock SVT can make 195 or 200. Hmm..
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Happy to help. :cool: As for the numbers, mine are at the wheel as measured by a dyno. Published numbers from automakers are at the crank. There would typically be about a 15% difference between the two given a manual trans, putting me at about ~215 crank hp. But 3L swaps are much more about torque than hp.
 
peke350 said:
Such a detailed reply. Thank you.
Noticed your sig. Whats wrong in there? Just 186 hp on a 3L? A stock SVT can make 195 or 200. Hmm..
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Contour svt's state 200hp. At the wheels most stock svt contours dyno at
164whp and 148tq.
 
TRicker said:
no you really can't you would probably get a bad seal on the heads if you hogged out the heads.

i swapped out the LIM today. it made the car run way better throughout the powerband. it has tons more top end but below 2500 i can notice a small loss in low end torque. but after 3000 it has a whole new tone. its really nice. dyno numbers will be up sometime early next month. i'm going to put up my setup with secondaries, without secondaries, and without secondaries and a split port 3L manifold.
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I have a little tip for those installing a gutted LIM,, the engine light will trip because the actuator will pull but since there is no plates and no return spring anymore it will trip a code for secondaries stuck open. I solved it by taking a spring off of an old park brake cable and putting it on the end of the cable, so now the actuator thinks the plates are still there. I cant believe that i am running a 3L with no tune and it doesnt throw lights all teh time anyway
 
LLADNAR said:
I solved it by taking a spring off of an old park brake cable and putting it on the end of the cable, so now the actuator thinks the plates are still there.
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The downside to that is the 10hp/30tq that you're missing out on down low - check out my graph on the first page of this thread.
 
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