• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

ST220 vacuum lines

Hmmm... is it possible there is an issue with the wiring to the front O2 sensor?? Lean condition is indicated by a low voltage, less then .45V... so you could have a short to ground or a cut wire on the front bank O2 sensor wiring. This is what is indicated by the P1151 code...

  • Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S
  • Water in the harness connector
  • Open/shorted HO2S circuit
  • Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
  • Damaged HO2S
  • Damaged PCM
 
This car is such a waste of my time and money and i still have sooo many parts rotting away in my garage that i spent a fortune on and why do i still have hope for it when it has done nothing but backstab me the whole time and how does installing an intake manifold result in a never ending check engine light that is now ruining my new engine that i have only put 2k miles on and $90 worth of oil i just put in that now has gas in it and why does it have to be blessed with an oil leak somewhere in the tranny hopefully not messing up my clutch and flywheel i spent $600 on and the slave cylinder that i just replaced because i thought it was leaking but instead i ended up buying two for no reason, kinda like when my axles broke but not really so i ended up pulling the engine to spend $1200 on the tranny to get ready for a turbo that is now only good for taking up space in my garage and why do the bolts on the top of my koni struts keep loosening themselves and probably going to end up breaking them since i guess buying three isn't already enough in only 2k miles and why do i try to put my 21mm sway bar on and it doesn't fit so i put the stocker back on for now but added the new endlinks and then it breaks my rear subframe pulling into my driveway as soon as i drove it and i hope no one will actually read all of this because it is absolutely ridiculous kinda like the luck i have had with this car and so i think this means that god is telling me that i need to sell my dd cougar and just get a car loan for a new car even though i dont want a car payment but at least i can forget about this whole project cougar and just take it to my grandparents property put a tarp over it with all its extra sexy worthless parts in the trunk and just forget about the whole thing and maybe one day when i have a million dollars and my own house and garage say "oh yea i still have that pos could be sick and fast cougar" and maybe i can deal with it then.




End rant end rant end rant end rant end rant end rant!!!!!
 
CSVT#49 said:
Hmmm... is it possible there is an issue with the wiring to the front O2 sensor?? Lean condition is indicated by a low voltage, less then .45V... so you could have a short to ground or a cut wire on the front bank O2 sensor wiring. This is what is indicated by the P1151 code...


  • Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S
  • Water in the harness connector
  • Open/shorted HO2S circuit
  • Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
  • Damaged HO2S
  • Damaged PCM
Click to expand...


I did think about the wiring, buuut I didn't touch the wiring for the o2 sensor when trying to install the manifold.

I did just turn the car on, got my little test light and put it in the 4 wire connections in the o2 sensor connector coming off the wiring harness, and it didn't light up for any of them. Wiring is for sure not my cup of tea so I have no idea what I am doing there.
 
SJon85 said:
I did think about the wiring, buuut I didn't touch the wiring for the o2 sensor when trying to install the manifold.

I did just turn the car on, got my little test light and put it in the 4 wire connections in the o2 sensor connector coming off the wiring harness, and it didn't light up for any of them. Wiring is for sure not my cup of tea so I have no idea what I am doing there.
Click to expand...

Yea you should have definitely had the test light light up on one of them as that is the heater circuit. If I remember right there are two white wires, a gray wire, and a black wire. The white wires are the heater circuit. The gray wire and the black wire are the signal wires for the ECU.

As another thought... isn't there a fuse for the O2 heater circuit?

EDIT: Looks like the fuse is located in the power distribution block in the engine bay. You want Fuse # 13, which should be a light blue 15Amp fuse. Let me know what you find.
 
Ok I got power at the fuse, but nothing at the connector. Your brilliant mike, that narrows it down to somewhere between the ecu and the o2 sensor plug on the wiring harness, or the ecu itself if I'm not mistaken. And yes two white wires and one black one gray. So now I need to follow those wires back as far as I can hoping to find a cut wire. Or is there anyway to test the ECU to see if maybe the ecu is at fault. Any tips before I take the top of the engine apart for the 9000th time?
 
SJon85 said:
Ok I got power at the fuse, but nothing at the connector. Your brilliant mike, that narrows it down to somewhere between the ecu and the o2 sensor plug on the wiring harness, or the ecu itself if I'm not mistaken. And yes two white wires and one black one gray. So now I need to follow those wires back as far as I can hoping to find a cut wire. Or is there anyway to test the ECU to see if maybe the ecu is at fault. Any tips before I take the top of the engine apart for the 9000th time?
Click to expand...

I'm trying to think where the O2 sensor wiring connects in the harness... ah to hell with thinking. Give me a few minutes I'll go look at my harnesses in the basement and see where they connect too. Be back in a few...
 
Alright I looked at the Ford CD for a 98, so this may or may not match what your looking at but here is what I found.

All power for all of the heater circuits is coming from the F13 fuse, which is a 20amp fuse in the power distribution block. You'll need to trace the wire from the white wire on the O2 sensor back up to the harness connection. It appears that this will be a violet/yellow striped wire which will lead back to the square connector, which then goes to the power distribution block. This wire should be providing 12v to the O2 sensor to allow the heater to heat up. There is most likely a break in this wire. The easiest way to confirm this is to check the continuity in the wire. With a multimeter have the one lead touching the pin on the O2 connector and with the other lead touch the pin on the square connector leading to the power distribution block. If you hear an audible beep (most multimeter's do) you have continuity. If you have an infinite reading and no beep there is a break in the wire. Kind of a lot to walk you through, but hopefully it makes sense. Wish I lived near you this is a 5 minute test as these connection are easy to get to.

Also if you do find power then the other end of the circuit goes to the ECM. Should be the black/yellow striped wire. This goes back to pin 73 on the ECM. I'd check continuity on this wire as well.
 
Here are the snap shots of the wiring schematics...


powerdistblk.png

o2wiring2.png

o2wiring1.png
 
I won't be able to touch it until Friday, I will test the wires then. Thanks mike for the info
 
I'd say get some beer and ask some CEGers to come stare at it with you. If you were local I'd say bring it over but I don't think you are in MN.
 
Blackcoog said:
I'd say get some beer and ask some CEGers to come stare at it with you. If you were local I'd say bring it over but I don't think you are in MN.
Click to expand...

Yea I was saying that above. The bummer is this would only take me like 5-10min to check. All the connections are right there and easily accessable. The hardest one to get to would be the PCM connection. Is that located in the same spot on Cougars with the power steering reservoir in the back corner with the PCM connection right behind it?
 
It would be very nice if I was local to either of you, because I would have paid either of you to fix it a looong time ago! I will pick up a multimeter and teach myself how to check the wires with it. I am working out of town until Monday though, but I am happy I finally found the problem and it's not just a mystery anymore.
 
Ok I'm back home, here's how the wiring is since its an 02. The four wires coming from the o2 sensor go into the connector on the wiring harness and change into these color wires like this:
white wire - green/blue
white wire - black/blue
grey wire - brown/red
black wire - white/red

I believe the green/blue wire is the power wire so I simply put my test light on it and it did have power. I also picked up a multimeter to help me out with this.
 
Last edited:
Ok after some tinkering heres what I got. I took all the tape off the wiring harness and followed the wires back to the 3 main connectors. The green/blue, black/blue, and white/red wires go up to the smaller top main connector and the brown/red wire goes into the coolant temp sensor. I checked continuity in those three wires going to the main connector and they all gave me a beep. Then I checked continuity between the fuse and the green/blue(power) wire and it beeped as well. Then I moved onto checking between the fuse and the ecu but the pins on the ecu connector are very small, so I couldn't get the mulitmeter in there nor did I know which pin it is. My DD is a stock 01 coug so I do have an ECU I could swap out but it is stock compared to the tune I have on the 02 coug, and I also can not mess up that ecu as its my dd. Any help is appreciated, thanks
 
Well....somehow it's fixed. Left the wiring and everything all apart last night and went inside cus I was pissed at it. Went back out there today and plugged all the wiring back in and tested for power at the o2 connector, and it had power? Doesn't make any sense but I drove it 15 miles and its working, no cel. I am going to take it for a spin later tonight when its not soo hott and see how she runs. On my test run I noticed my driver side axle is starting to click click :hammer:
 
I bet a pin or connector wasn't fully seated. Then when you connected it all back up you fixed it. In any case I'm glad you figured it out.
 
Yea I bet a wire got snagged on something one of the 300 times I took the UIM off and the pin just barely pulled out of the connector causing no contact when connected, then when I messed with all the wiring I somehow pushed it back in. Anyways sooo glad it's fixed, thanks for pointing me in the right direction Mike. Now onto the several other little problems and putting the ST220 back on, I was soooooooo sooooo close to giving up on this thing.
 
Glad you didn't give up. We need some updated pictures of this thing once you get the ST220 UIM back on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top