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RAD's 3L build

IIRC only the SVT 2.5s and some (all?) Cougars came with a knock sensor so you likely wont find one. if you do have one it will be located on the rear bank side, near the transmission end, about half way up.

the object in the pictures is a noise suppressor condenser for the ignition system.
 
Well I can't find one so I imagine I don't have anything to plug in anyways so I should be ok.
That being the case the engine is finally finished and ready to be installed. here are some pics

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Thank you Terry Haines for the tranny
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Looks pretty! I don't think my 3L install in may will look as clean, as I hadn't planned to paint/powder coat any part, but now I'm looking at yours Joe may get some more of my money! Lol
 
I wish I could have sent my parts to Joe :( but I spent my money on all the performance instead so I just rattle-canned the parts. Next time though, PC will be much better
 
Here is a list of all the modifications that I did:

2004 3L Port match
SVT Optimized TB
SHO-Source (CPS) Stage 2 ported SVT UIM
SHO-Source Big Bore SVT LIM
SVT 19# injectors
Mild Head porting with re-faced valves and 3-angle valve job
Escape Oil pan and Pickup
SVT oil cooler
SVT Cams
Unorthodox racing aluminum 9# flywheel
South bend clutch
Terry Haines built transmission with keyed shift tower
Quaife I already had before the build
I will be getting a tune from Joey as soon as I have the money
MSDS headers that will be going into a true dual exhaust eventually
Taylor Thundervolt wires
Bosch +4 Spark plugs

I think thats it I would have to look at my reciepts for anything else
 
RAD Merc SVT said:
Thank you Beans... I'll switch that haha. The +4's are double platinum I think, is there another reason I shouldn't use them?
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They will work. +4's and +2's are just a gimmick for people to spend more money. I would get some auto-lights down the road.
 
I understand that because I know that no matter what, the spark is always gonna jump to the least amount of resistance. There is no gain from having 1 electrode or 1000 electrodes. I chose those because the way they are setup the spark is going to jump to the electrodes at an angle so the spark has more exposure to the combustion chamber as opposed to regular plugs. Will that result in power gains on the dyno? probably not. But I also did a back cut on all of my valves to take off the smallest lip on them and will that produce more power? no, but it is one more thing I did that most others skip over.
 
I took my engine back to the shop to be installed. I wish I had the room at my house to do it myself. but anyways they said they would probably have it done by next saturday I can't wait!

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I finally got my car back! It is great to be driving it again. I have not seen its power yet because I am waiting to "break in" the motor and I kinda want to wait until I have it tuned just to make sure nothing goes wrong. It is throwing a P1400 though and I read that it was the sensor that the lines from the EGR go into. Do I just replace that sensor? Or if I might have hooked the hoses up backwards would that throw the same code?
 
not sure. the hoses are two different sizes so they shouldn't have gotten mixed up. but i would double check anyway.
 
I am pretty sure I put the hoses on correctly due to the different sizes. I do have a cougar EGR that I had to cut the metal lines that come off the EGR shorter. Will that have anything to do with it? If the sensor is good what causes the code? Also, I have some air filter on my intake and there is a hole in it for a sensor (I beleive 02 sensor of some sort) I want to put a new filter on but it doesn't have the room to drill a hole for that sensor. My question is does that sensor have to go before the MAF or can I drill a hole farther back after the MAF?For some reason I can't post pictures (copy and paste from photobucket)
 
The sensor is the IAT sensor (intake air temp sensor) and it can go before or after the MAF but generally it's a good idea to keep it as close to the throttle body as possible so the reading is accurate to what the temp of the air is when it goes into the motor. You can make a slit into any silicon couplers and push it in that way. if you do that it's probably a better idea to keep it before the MAF so you don't have to worry about leaks causing a check engine light.

I'd check the lines and make sure the DPFE sensor is connected. If you don't see anything obviously wrong try a new sensor and I wouldn't recommend modifying it.
 
Alright thanks coog. I had to modify the EGR because the lines on a cougar EGR (as you probably know) are much longer than a contour so I cut them shorter so the rubber lines out of the sensor could connect to them. I will try a few things to see if I can get the code to turn off and if I can't I'll try replacing the sensor. I think I am going to move the sensor into a rubber coupler after the MAF and hope for the best.Finally, My car smells like it is running rich. but I should be getting a ton of airflow from my bigger intakes and ported heads. It is untuned I figured it would be running lean until I got it tuned. any ideas? Also, it is a non-svt but I believe there is an SVT computer in it (there might not be) and it is running 19# injectors. Could that be a cause?
 
Ok so I got my P1400 code figured out. I took off the rubber hoses and one of them had a slice in it at the end, I cut off some of the end and the code hasn't come back on yet. I also took my car into emissions and passed with flying colors... except in my county I apparantly have to have 3 cats (because thats what it originally had) so I failed. They failed me because of missing cats even though my sniff test was WAY below all the requirements. I hate my city
 
You don't have to mount the DPFE where it's at. I ended up having to move it because of the issues with the longer lines. I'd cut the egr tube lines before I'd cut the sensor down.
 
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