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Possible new gutting method for front manifold...

K

kcobra

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Jun 26, 2000
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rochester
I was trying to weld up the hole in my front manifold from a previous owners gut job and we realized it was also leaking from the manifold gasket was well. So I need to take the manifold off the car. This got me to thinking I have an extra front manifold laying around, is there a way to break up the cat material without drilling/cutting a hole in the manifold?

What if I take a piece of cable like thiscable..jpg
not that cable specifically but that type you can buy it at HD by the foot. I could have them crimp a fairly small loop in the end of it so I can put a nut and bolt through the loop and attach the other end to a drill thus is cable would work much like a toilet snake. I also have one of these
DCT410S1_1..jpg to look in the manifold and make sure I got all of the cat material out. If all goes correctly I have a gutted front manifold with no visible holes (not really a issue in Michigan), but I never have to worry about a crappy weld. If This turns out to be a fairly easy way to gut a manifold I will create a how to for that forum.

Any opinions?
 

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I don't really think mechanical fingers will have enough strength to break it up. My dad has been talking to me about it, and he thinks just violently shaking the manifold with a big ball bearing or socket floating around in it will work.
 
the stuff is pretty tough. you really need a smaller point that spins at a rather high RPM. I have used a coat hanger with about the last 3/4" bent over 90* and the other end put in the chuck of the corded drill (and tightened way down) with great results. you can drill a small hole (IIRC i normally drill a 1/4" or 3/8" hole) which is then easily welded back up.
 
because of the bend in the manifold, you wont be able to get anything that is sturdy enough to break up the material in there. you need to come at it straight on with something solid (like aforementioned coat hanger), which requires drilling a small hole.
 
Seems like the hardest part is getting started. Punching through the catalyst in the first place would be tough with any flexible tool. Once your through, then the drill will tear it up pretty easy though as long as your tip gets enough travel to get it all.
 
Even if it takes me 2 hours to get it out I don't care. Not having a weld in the manifold to rust out is my priority.
 
I had to take mine off anyways so I used a sawzall to cut off the bottom part of it below the cat, cleaned everything out, and then had a friend weld it back together. took about an hour total after it was off the car.
 
tigerbalm said:
I had to take mine off anyways so I used a sawzall to cut off the bottom part of it below the cat, cleaned everything out, and then had a friend weld it back together. took about an hour total after it was off the car.
Click to expand...

There we go.. Make a clean weld real easy and be done with it.
 
Took me about 25 min to get all of the cat material out of the manifold. Not too much time at all.
 
I ended up using a bucket handle as in the original how-to, and a long skinny screwdriver visible in the last picture. But instead of going through a hole in the bottom of the manifold I went through the exhaust opening directly above the cat. It was a straight shot with the bucket handle. After I got most of the material out i pulled the handle out made the last bend in it about 1.5 inches and knocked the rest out. Its perfectly clean inside. I will never suggest cutting a hole to anyone. I got this manifold off of my parts car in about 25 min. The parts car was a 98 se that was driven through 12 Michigan winters and has been sitting in my carport for the last 2 years. I don't think it would be possible to get it out with the rad fan in the way. But I cannot believe it takes all that long to get the fans out.
 
striker2 said:
the fans are a ••••• to get out because you have to remove the radiator first.
Click to expand...

I don't buy that for a second. on my first contour the upper taps where the bolts go through were broken off and the fan was practically falling out of the car.
 
The cooling fan assembly was easy to remove on my SE (thinner radiator?). I know because I pulled mine twice on vacation out the bottom. First put the car up on ramps high enough. Then the lower radiator brackets are removed and the radiator is left in place. You disconnect the fans from the radiator and wiggle it out the bottom being careful of the radiator fins. I pulled it bacause one fan siezed and the other had stuck brushes. During the trip I found another fan motor and replaced the siezed one.
 
kcobra said:
I don't buy that for a second. on my first contour the upper taps where the bolts go through were broken off and the fan was practically falling out of the car.
Click to expand...

at least with the SVT radiator the fans will not fit between the radiator and the subframe. since a standard radiator is a little thinner the fans might fit, dennyb says they do but im sure its a pretty tight squeeze to get the whole fan shroud down.
 
first, I always pulled the fans and the radiator together as an assembly, never had any issues. I had an se, but IDK why a bigger radiator would be an issue, the whole thing comes out from in front of the subframe. you have to take the condenser loose though.

as for the gutting, I drilled a gigantic hole in the bottom of mine and used a super expensive tap to thread it to accept a subaru oil pan drain plug. worked like a charm. used a little JB weld as high temp thread sealant...

if I'd have known you didnt have to go through all of that I sure wouldnt have though, nice discovery!
 
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