ctmystique
Hard-core CEG'er
Looks sweet Brian. I didn't know the intercooler would mount so easily. :drool:
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pic says it all
- Thread starter BrApple
- Start date
I had to play around with it some. I still want to get it alittle higher. it came with flat brackets and the mounts the the existing P/S cooler holes in the frame. So I had to bend the bracekts and that put the IC to low. So I then got it installed and just forced the whole thing up to bend the bracekts. This is also after bendning the brackets to line up with the IC mounting points and the mounting points on the frame. Also the slots in the brackets where not wide enough for the bolts so I had to open those up some also ....
now I need to cut part of the fan shroud so that I can run the other intercooler pipe. As well as drill the 2" hole for the intake pipe.
well, I am loosing my mind some over this project, but I found it I think :laugh:
went to put the AN hose ends on the turbo feed line last night and didn't ahve any luck. The ends are not made for steel braided hose from what I researched. So what I think I will do is just get some rubber hose and use that if needed while I order up a pre-made hose.
I finally got the maf situation figured out. The first one I receieved was infact a 80mm maf as I was looking for. Now I need to find a maf adaptor and possible some new couplers so I can put everything together. Also this is where I starting loosing my mind this morning. I got another maf today and it was suppose to be 80mm but it was larger then the one that I had. I then got mixed up on which was which. I found conflicting info on the web about what part number was what maf ..... took them to Gregs and compaired them to his 90mm maf and its all straightened out now. But because I can't install it I now have to hold off on my fuel system upgrades. This now puts everything behind.
So I changed direction late this afternoon. I started installing my NPG big brake kit. So as of right now I have the passanger front done. Tomorrow and will get the drivers front done and then see about the rear brakes. I need to go back and use some thread lock on everything as well as torque all the bolts also. Then I need to sand the pads so that they bed in nicely with the new rotors.
If I don't install the rear brake kit I will pull the y-pipe and test pipe so that I can get in there and install my LC-1 wide band controller. I think I am going with the idea of getting up behind the heat shield and just going through the floor to run the wiring. This way the control unit and connectors are in the cabin. At that point I will also start installing my turbo timer.
went to put the AN hose ends on the turbo feed line last night and didn't ahve any luck. The ends are not made for steel braided hose from what I researched. So what I think I will do is just get some rubber hose and use that if needed while I order up a pre-made hose.
I finally got the maf situation figured out. The first one I receieved was infact a 80mm maf as I was looking for. Now I need to find a maf adaptor and possible some new couplers so I can put everything together. Also this is where I starting loosing my mind this morning. I got another maf today and it was suppose to be 80mm but it was larger then the one that I had. I then got mixed up on which was which. I found conflicting info on the web about what part number was what maf ..... took them to Gregs and compaired them to his 90mm maf and its all straightened out now. But because I can't install it I now have to hold off on my fuel system upgrades. This now puts everything behind.
So I changed direction late this afternoon. I started installing my NPG big brake kit. So as of right now I have the passanger front done. Tomorrow and will get the drivers front done and then see about the rear brakes. I need to go back and use some thread lock on everything as well as torque all the bolts also. Then I need to sand the pads so that they bed in nicely with the new rotors.
If I don't install the rear brake kit I will pull the y-pipe and test pipe so that I can get in there and install my LC-1 wide band controller. I think I am going with the idea of getting up behind the heat shield and just going through the floor to run the wiring. This way the control unit and connectors are in the cabin. At that point I will also start installing my turbo timer.
Well I am back on track.
In progress pic of the NPG front brake kit. Poweder coating thanks to ctmystique.
I also test fit the up-pipe for the turbo today.
In progress pic of the NPG front brake kit. Poweder coating thanks to ctmystique.
I also test fit the up-pipe for the turbo today.
CSVT1214
Addicted CEG'er
Brian, did you get the rotors powdercoated or just the other brake parts? I have new rotors for my NPG kit but I don't know if I should just spray them down with some high temp paint or get them powdercoated.
rotors are powder coated and the rest of the parts are just painted. The paint I put on my front rotors didn't hold up to well and they still started to rust. The bracket and the caliper on the other hand seem pretty good, except the paint isn't as bright as it was a few years ago.
only problem I ran it/will run into is with the powder coat I couldn't budge the rotors after I used the lug nuts to hold them on the hub to test for clearence on the caliper bracket ... but I didn't have a hammer to try to get them off either ...
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
Good stuff there, Brian. I can't wait to see the finished product! I want to be there when it's all set so I can get a ride in it, OK? :laugh:
CSVT1214
Addicted CEG'er
I really gotta get my parts together and meet up with Roger. I have so many misc. parts that I want powdercoated.
I would, he is doing alot of stuff for Greg right now ...
however i will have to go back and paint the un used rotor surfaces.
you and everyone else. But you have to wait as jess, greg and roger get first rides in the car when its done ....
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
That's totally fine, just let me know when and where and I'm there! Well, as long as I'm out of school
looking good brian!
is it just the angle of the picture, or does that pipe in the last pic go under the oil pan?
if it does, it seems like it would limit your ground clearance.
and to clarify on the PC'ed rotors, are you saying that they stuck to the hub because of the PC'ing?
is it just the angle of the picture, or does that pipe in the last pic go under the oil pan?
if it does, it seems like it would limit your ground clearance.
and to clarify on the PC'ed rotors, are you saying that they stuck to the hub because of the PC'ing?
That would be correct. It does run under the oil pan. I don't think it will be any lower then the mirko so I should know if there are any problems. And so much for using different springs to get the front lower.
I do believe so. When I put them on and hand tightened the rotors down they had a bad wobble in them. So I tightened them down and all was good. But then I wasn't able to pull the rotors off. I did take a wire brush to the hub before I put them on. So I believe the thickness of the powder coat is holding them tightly on the hub ...
well, that kind of stinks that the PC causes that to happen.
it would concern me when it came to torquing the wheels down.
which stinks, because i wanted to PC mine once i got my oven.
might be better off leaving the mating surfaces bare or just painted with a think coat of paint.
it would concern me when it came to torquing the wheels down.
which stinks, because i wanted to PC mine once i got my oven.
might be better off leaving the mating surfaces bare or just painted with a think coat of paint.
well, that kind of stinks that the PC causes that to happen.
it would concern me when it came to torquing the wheels down.
which stinks, because i wanted to PC mine once i got my oven.
might be better off leaving the mating surfaces bare or just painted with a think coat of paint.
can you explain the concern furthur? The rotor is normally samwiched between the wheel and the hub anyway and I basically did then when I torque down the lug nuts on it.
I don't believe its stuck on the studs but then center of the hub. as when I put them on as far as I could by hand they came off and I saw evidence of the pc coming off at the center openning in the rotor at the center of the hub.
but I could see that if the rotor doesn't move when you torque the wheel down and then it does later ... hmmm
i am thinking of the PC'ing having some 'give' to it.
it is a 'plastic' coating on the material and has some flex.
thus when you torque the wheels, i think they might be prone to loosening quicker than if the PC wasn't there.
kind of like having a thin plastic washer between the wheel and rotor and the rotor and the hub.
it is a 'plastic' coating on the material and has some flex.
thus when you torque the wheels, i think they might be prone to loosening quicker than if the PC wasn't there.
kind of like having a thin plastic washer between the wheel and rotor and the rotor and the hub.
ctmystique
Hard-core CEG'er
I didn't think of that when I was coating them, but it does add a few mils thickness. I'm guessing it's sticking to the centering hole in the hat of the rotor. I Just finished coating my hubs and knuckles and mounted one. The rotor I didn't do yet but it was still a tight fit on the hub.
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BloodyTomFlint
Three-balled plunderer of booty
My engineer friend who has extensive background in this sort of thing says that the powder coating shouldn't have any affect on the torque of the lug nuts. You should torque them to spec and then re-torque them after 25 miles. You should be all set after that.
And by the way, I can't wait to see the finished product.
And by the way, I can't wait to see the finished product.
good to know, I was thinking about keeping an eye on the torque for awhile anyway.
so am I.
I ordered a 80mm maf adaptor from KKM of ebay today. It goes out in 1 to 2 days and I got 2nd day air so I should have that by the end of the week. Once I get that I will need two new couplers so I can use teh larger maf and maf adaptor. So after that i should be ready for the fuel system upgrades this weekend.
I also ordered a pre-made oil line for the turbo and a new 90 steel fitting. My dad is goign to make a brass restrictor for it.
I also placed an order with summit racing for some header wrap, straps and high temp cable sheiths to use also.
I end up also getting some more dzus fasteners for my mirko for the SVT. Now I have to decide if I actually install it or not. Will test fit it tomorrow.